Where is the jack socket of the Mk V?


Hello,

Please tell me where under the bottom of the Mk V in the attached photos we can find the jack socket adjacent to the front wheel on the right side. (The view of the photos is from the right side toward the left side of the car. )

Kind regards

Refer to Plate DZ in the Spare Parts Catalogue. At the car front under the bumper over-riders, remove part 1048/A Plug, (Rubber) for Front Jack Sockets (DZ.30) from part C.3125 Socket for Jack (Front) (DZ.29). The dumb irons coming out the front just under the bumper over-riders are square section which receives the jack.

I never use the jack supplied with the car. In the front, the position of the jacking point makes a lot of work to lift the front of the car. In the front, there also are potential concerns about strength of the dumb irons and rust issues. In the rear, the access holes for the jack simply are too troublesome.

Thank you for the answers below. But I cannot yet understand you. And so, I use another picture so that you can teach me easily. Would you please tell me it by using this illustration of the Mk V frame ?

Sure, find the very farthest forward points on both parts of the frame left and right side. The distance between these two points is about the width of the radiator. On the photo you show above, follow where the frame touches the line indicated for “shock absorber filler” just to the right of the “R” in “FILLER” and just to the left of the “S” in “SHOCK”.

Said another way, stand in front of the car and look under the left and right parts of the front bumper. The frame should have a square section piece on both sides which reaches to just under the front bumper.

And sometimes the rubber plug I mentioned above is plugged into the end of the frame points and sometimes those plugs are missing. The plugs go into the square section of the frame where the jack would fit.

Under the black registration plate holder are the two jacking points with the round rubber sealers in place.

Like Roger, I’ve never used them to lift the car even though mine are sound. I guess I would in the event of a puncture. I’ve never seen the rear jacking points so I must go out and look unless someone has a photo they could add to this post.

My car has been cleaned down since the photo was taken after radiator spillage.

Tim

Dear friiends,

Thank you so much. I think I could find the two front jack sockets as in the first attached photo. But I think I can’t use my jack in the second photo for them. Is that right ? Is the jack for Mk V individual ?

Kind regards

The correct jack and the ratchet handle look like this.

SNG Barretts sell them new!

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/parts/ba22dfde-0419-419a-9665-a95551bc892e

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/parts/b45e96ec-7099-4aa3-8629-c583d2bbdba0

Tim

In the way back of my mind, there may be wheel clearance issues if the front jack point is used with the supplied jack to raise car for changing a flat. The front jack point is so far forward that large vertical jack lift is required to clear an inflated tire on wheel for mounting. And the single foot of the jack makes me unwilling to use it for lifting the front of the vehicle.

The rear jack point is not from the side of the car, but rather is from underneath. The jack is placed so that the ratchet tool attaches inside the car. There are two small access plates with handles that fit in the floor well under the carpet in the interior.

For the rear jack points, see spare parts catalogue Plate DZ for C.3246 Socket for Jack (Rear) (DZ.31), and C.3247 Bracket, on side of Frame, supporting Rear Jack Socket (DZ.32).

Here also is a photo of the left hand side under my car viewing upwards from the ground. One may see the oval access plate which pulls up into the car via a handle under the carpeting. Also shown is the square cross section opening into the Socket and the Bracket below it.

Hi Roger,

Thank you very much for the photo’s.

I now understand what the access plate is for as I had wondered. What a crazy and inconvenient system!

It’s sage advice about exercising caution when using the jack, particularly on uneven or soft ground, if the tyre blew. I guess keeping the tyres new and well inflated is vital. I think I’ll just call roadside assistance if the worst happened.

Tim

Never trust a factory jack to lift the car without some sort of failure such as bending the door metal or ripping out the jacking points. Go with a regular floor jack such as these. I bought a complete kit with safety jacks for around $50 which I have in every car we own:

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks.html

Secondly, I do NOT use the rubber plugs in any Jaguar as they tend to trap sand, salt and water within the metal jacking rod. You can always put them back in for a show. Next time you are at the car wash, stick the wash wand into the jacking point and you will see a bunch of gunk coming flying back at you or out of the drain hole.

Gerard

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Thank you for the comments to my question. I think the saddle of my jack is not adequate for the jack socket of Mk V. So I consider how I can open the spare wheel compartment with the authentic jack in it of my Mk V, without the original key.

Ditto on Margaret: I have always pulled them off. Good thing on the Rover: the outer sills can be replaced in about an hour.

To open the spare wheel compartment without having a key:
Use a flat blade screwdriver with about 1 cm across the flat. The key cross-section is square so the screwdriver will fit diagonally in the square and can be rotated to open or close the budget locks.BD.2121 and BD.2122 (item EZ.83 on Plate EZ) while holding open the escutcheon 2312 (item EZ.84 on Plate EZ). The budget locks require one quarter turn to lock or unlock.

This is the correct tool to open the spare tire compartment and remove the rear spats.
tools 017
But it was only used on Mark V, no other Jaguar model, so it is hard to find anymore.
Alternatively, you can use the Tee Key or Coach Key now offered by many suppliers.


The jacking sockets on the Mark V are very strong, assuming the chassis is not rusted away, and I have used them many times with the correct jack in my younger days when I had no other.


The scissors jack you have is what my modern S-Type and Volvo have, not intended for and will not fit the Mark V as is. If you really wanted to carry it for emergencies, you could flatten out the saddle or remove it, and just put this jack under the frame near one of the rear jacking points. But it really is not a very good jack, rather unstable, and I would only use it for changing a flat in an emergency if I had no other jack and I was on flat solid ground or pavement and had wheel chocks and put the gearbox in first gear.