Yep, it’s right there.
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Thanks. I see it now. Certainly the G-xxxx matches. The end bit about the compression ratio is either hidden amongst the crud or perhaps you’re going to tell me the compression ration bit is not on the block.
Either way, we seem to have a match.
Itching to get started, but need to do some work first 
as others have said…get old fuel out, you have an in line fuel filter–that small skinny one…ok…easy replace…just be sure for a low pressure system…like a G2 or G3 clear one that tube diameter is for whatever you have where it is. Change engine oil and filter…while not essential with capital E i suggest an oil with 1000 to 1200 or so zddp…for flat tappet cams, which the car has…Castrol Classic or Mobil 1 15-50 (not other viscosities in the Mob 1) or similar… Brake fluid attracts moisture…do not use old fluid even if sealed. Eventually you will want to change the brake fluid…with a flush…due to old, and moisture…it can make a spongy pedal but more important the moisture will damage the wheel cylinders. I would change gearbox (30 wt single grade) and differential. 75-90 gl3 or 4) Why not. Change coolant–50-50 green antifreeze. Check hoses and belts, including brake hoses. Test brakes !!! check DOT dates on the old tires…8-10 years max…go slow–under 40mph until replaced…It is NOT how they look…age is internal problem. Try to use no ethanol fuel…or treat it with a stabilizer. IF–engine has not turned in years…don’t use the starter yet. Pull the spark plugs…add a half teaspoon of oil in each…and let sit a day or two…then see if you can turn engine by hand–the large 1 5/16 nut on front of crank damper…or put in 4th and have a pal help you push car forward…while someone watches to see if engine turns…(plugs till out–makes it easier–cover holes with blue shop towel so nothing falls in…) if it turns…good. You can now try a start up…is there a clickng sound from fuel pump as you turn key on…don’t touch gas pedal as it does nothing beneficial at start up…the warmer the day the easier the start up if the electric choke is not working. Good luck…immediately and while starting have someone look for fuel leaks…always have fire extinguishers (2) handy…and then other leaks. That old brake fluid can go to a recycle place that takes it, some auto part stores do…
Then–you will want a few XK books, the owner handbook and factory service manual, and come back here to this forum OFTEN and with ALL questions…
Welcome
Nick
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Gents
I’m looking at advice on changing the oil next.
Before you ask, no I’ve never changed the oil on anything before. All I’ve ever done is topped oil up on modern cars 
My maintenance book tells me
20W/30 oil. Of course, this doesn’t match anything that was left on the garage shelves. Which I’m sure you guys will tell me I need to get rid of anyway.
The book also tells me I shouldn’t mix brands and informs me that some brands are detergent and some are non-detergent, and I definitely shouldn’t mix the two!
I’ve no idea what’s in the engine at the moment, maybe it doesn’t matter if I’m changing the lot. For the record, that’s the first time I’ve heard of detergent oil too. Please tell me this is some old English terminology that is no longer relevant!
I see 4 pints will take the level from low to high on the dipstick, so for a full oil change I guess I need a bit more. Would 3 litres be enough?
As for the procedure, do I:
- undo the drain plug, let it all drain out, put the plug back in
- remove the canister and element, clean the canister and parts in petrol, put a new element in, then replace the lot
- pour some new oil in the top (slowly) until the level rises on the dipstick to where I want it.
Is that it?
I feel like I should be learning on some old banger, and not this beauty!
so for a full oil change I guess I need a bit more. Would 3 litres be enough?
Who’s going to tell him???
Rob, do you have shares in an oil company? From dry you are looking at between 25-28 pints…
I will leave it to others to explain the joys of the canister change… Suggest you buy some kitty litter as well…
Hi Rob:
I own an XK120 and it has an oil capacity, including filter, of 13 litres (28 U.S. pints) the XK140 has an oil capacity of 26 1/2 U.S. pints, so, you will need a bit more than 3 litres for a complete oil change. In a pinch any oil that has a S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers) specification will be compatible with another, however, if you are doing a change then clearly buying the same brand and grade makes sense. As the XK engine is a “flat tappet” engine it would be advisable to purchase an oil that has the ZDDP additive in it.
I use Kendall GT 1 20W50 as it has this additive, there are others and folks have their own preferences. When you change the filter you will likely need to replace the gasket that seals the canister given how long it has been since the last change. Your replacement filter should contain one in the box.
If the car has been running the oil will be warm and will drain more efficiently, although be sure you don’t scald yourself! Given the capacity a lot of oil will come out in a big hurry when you undo the sump drain plug, be ready with a suitable sized container to catch it all! Clean out the canister for sure and remove the bottom plate (if the 140 is the same as the 120) as a lot of crud can accumulate underneath. Once you have poured in most of the oil I usually start the engine in order to fill the filter, then check your level on the dipstick and bring it up to the full mark. On start up, check that the filter seal is not leaking or you’ll have an Exxon Valdez mess on the floor!
I like 20W50 as the viscosity range is suitable for summer temperatures here in Ontario and in my car it doesn’t burn any oil or blow blue smoke. Others have their preferences. My car is equipped with a block heater and is garaged, but even with 20W50 I tend to plug in the block heater for a few hours prior to it’s monthly start up during the cold weather “off season” period. Detergent oils are common place today whereas back in the day regular non-detergent oil was the norm. Running modern detergent oil is fine. Good luck.
Chris.
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You’re buying in the US, right? 14 quarts should do it.
Although it you want to use up all those bottles on the shelf that’s ok too.
Oil doesn’t get old, and SAE 30 is alright for summer driving.
I see you have the FA2690/101 filter head.
The trick is the big round o-ring in the canister groove. See it hanging out on the right. Your old one may be stuck and you’ll have to get a sharp tool in there to scrape it out. Be sure to get it ALL out.
There is another sealing ring on the top bolt. If that leaks, try your local hardware store for a replacement. Look in the plumbing and toilet repair section.
It is not the same size as for XK120 (Moss is in error there).
You want the “short” filter 4-1/2" long, sold by Moss and many others.
Earlier XK120 and Mark VII had a taller filter canister.
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the drain plug for oil is on the bottom of the large “bathtub”…further back is a drain for the gearbox. A meathead may have put it on tight…don’t round the drain hex, use a proper 12 point wrench or socket, not a crescent. Oil can be drained as it sits there…cold…you do NOT have to run the car to have warm or hot oil…the oil was hot when last shut off…any sediments have had a long time to get to the bottom, near the drain, so no need to mix it all up again…just undo and drain with a very large catch pan…at least 15 qt capacity or you will have a mess…sometimes you have to jack the car a little to get the pan to fit under and have room to undo the drain (wood blocks !! placed under frame for safetyL ask here if you do not know where to place the jack and always–put a small piece of wood on the jack top…so it doesnt dent or punch the frame. Yes, when it stops dripping out the drain put the drain plug back in…, clean the threads…and install with fingers…until it threads in quite a bit…you do not want to strip the threads or damage them…FINGERS to thread in at least several full turns…then wrench to firm plus…not over tight. the filter will be the tricky part…so study the notes provided here by others…filter off–filter installed, check o rings, check fit and alignment…don’t overtighten. Add oil thru the cam cover opening…slow down as you get to bottom mark…don’t overfill…but do fill to just a smidge below the top mark. I like Mobil 1 15-50 and it has the right zddp. Castrol Classic, Miller Oil (in UK), Valvoline ZR1 all good. First time on tasks, I like to make a note-check list, have it in the garage, and consult as I go, to not miss a step.
Nick
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Hi Rob,
You have been given lots of good info so far. Before you attempt to fire it up first time, I would try to get some oil pressure up - distributing oil around the engine.
Best way would be to disconnect the lead to the fuel pump so you are not pumping petrol/gas into the engine, also disable the ignition - can remove the HT lead or the LT lead from the coils. Taking the spark plugs out will also make cranking faster.
Crank engine over until you see the oil pressure gauge move. At this point you should have pumped oil to all major bearings and cam. It can take a couple of mins to see any gauge movement.
Once you think you are ready don’t be surprised to have lots of other things that need resolving - stuck carb floats, jet rubbers that have split and leak fuel, starting carb not turning on, fuel pump not functioning correctly, distributor weights not moving. It just takes patience and working through each item, but you will get there. Hey, you may be lucky and it fire up first time!
Regards,
Clive.
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Make sure you turn the crank in the right direction. Counter clockwise as you face the engine in the drivers seat. XK120 uses a 1 5/16" wrench on the crankshaft. Can’t imagine it would be different for a XK140.
I put in the cylinder 1 teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil, and 1 teaspoon of Castrol Oil in the cylinder before starting the first time.
After you get it started, test compression, then timing, then tune the carbs. I have an MGA with H4s which is mostly the same as the H6s on the XK 140. My favorite description on the tuning process is from Barney Gaylord. The timing information and idle speed is obviously for an MGA, but you may find some of this information useful.
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/cf120.htm
I’m in a similar situation with a 120 right now @Atomic. My father just doesn’t have time to work on the car so I’m taking it on. Are you seeing an interest in the UK from younger enthusiasts? I feel like the future of the hobby is in the UK based on what I’m seeing. Seems only fitting given where they came from. Just don’t make it electric…
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OK to do…tho 2 teaspoons is a bit much…but in any case…if you do this…with spark plugs still out, after sitting a while, turn engine by hand only–SPARK PLUGS OUT…2 full revolutions, in proper operation direction, and after that–.let it sit a day…before any start up…so the oil can drip down and out past rings…
Nick
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I concur. Assuming that you are not going straight out and run track days right out of the box, unused oil in a sealed container will be fine for normal road use. If it is what you have, mixing brands is not a problem, and during summer months, any viscosity 30 and up will be fine. I would change the oil and filter, drive it a thousand miles, then change it again. Always replace the copper gasket/washer on the sump drain plug, and do not over tighten it.
Rob Shaw: Some of the above comments are advising excessive amounts of oil such as roughly 15 quarts. That may be appropriate for the XK120. You have an XK140, with a smaller sump capacity. I couldn’t find the exact XK140 oil capacity, but here is the oil refill WARNING from the XK140 supplement to the XK120 Service Manual. So be careful when refilling, and do not top off to the full mark on the dipstick until after the engine is HOT.
Also, I’ve found there usually a lot of crud accumulated under the lower spring plate in the oil filter canister. I rinse the canister numerous times with gasoline to remove the crud then let it air dry before reassembly.
Along these lines I have a question. My rebuilt 3.8 has an aluminum sump which may not be correct. Any thoughts on how much oil to put in it? I’m not even sure if the dipstick is the correct one.
Pat H
Hi Pat…this thread may help you work it out useing your sump dimensions…you dont want oil upto the webs on the crank…Steve Sump oil levels - pictorially ! - The 'E' Type Forum
Hi Pat,
You may want to move this to a separate thread. Dipstick length? - #7 by Johnball may help you find out which dipstick you have.
First identify which sump you have, then I would use the fill level according to the matching dipstick - you may have to scratch a mark on your dipstick if it does not match the sump.
Regards,
Clive.
I should think the dipstick should match the block rather than the sump, depending on whether it has a dipstick tube or not. On both my MkVII and 64 E-type the full mark is the same distance down from the felt washer, ie the same distance down fro the landing on the block casting. Later modles had a dipstick tube so would be different.