I think someone (Kirby?) mentioned in an earlier thread that we do have a drain hose that runs down the A-Pillar to the outside of the car, near the bottom of the engine compartment (one other member I think said he thought it was somewhere near the headlights). I assume this also applies to the face-lifts, like my Superblue. Seeing that we are about to have flooding rain conditions here overnight, I looked in desperation for this hose to see if I could clear it out (using my patented guitar string method ) – I don’t want to wake up to a puddle in the front of the driver’s floorboard and a soaked mat AGAIN. However, after looking up and down the pillar I could not spot the hose or its opening, even after pushing the rubber door seal back a bit. Please tell me we don’t have to actually r/r the door seal in order to access the hose and its opening, knowing what a royal PITA it is to replace the seal in its mounting groove.
I take it you are worried about the drains for the sun roof? If so then the drains are positioned in each corner of the roof aperture AFAIK
No - it’s a face-lift 4.0, no sunroofs …
Then I don’t know where/what you are trying to drain?
1st photo from google THEY MUST BE somewhere easy as these ones were blocked and they guy told me if the p.o. had cleaned them out regularly it would never have happened, on the pre face lift the water runs down the inside of the chrome windscreen surround and out under the front fender
No doubt this info will be repeated over and over again
There’s no hose in the A-pillar, the entire A-pillar is the drain! There are gaps at the forward corners of the roof that feed into the A-pillars, and from there the rainwater flows down into the door jamb. There’s a deflector in the door jamb right under the lower end of the A-pillar that turns the water flow forward and around the front edge of the door.
There have been problems in which the A-pillar was found to be blocked with silicone sealant, which can cause the rainwater to back up and find another way to go, typically into the footwell. The stainless steel trim on the A-pillar must be removed by grinding off some pop rivets, the passage cleaned up, and the trim reinstalled – usually with stainless steel screws instead of pop rivets. On my '83 there were already stainless steel screws there, a sure sign someone had been in there before me.
Thanks for chiming in on this, Kirby. So that means there must either be some of that silicone sealant blockage you mention (but why would someone use that there?) or my deflector is missing/damaged. I’ll try checking those out … btw, before the rain set in this weekend I had recently tried using some silicone lube spray on the driver’s window channels (inc. the cheater plate) and outside of the door seal to get the window moving again w/o resistance and squeaks/groans. Funny thing is I noticed after day 1 of the rains there didn’t seem to be anywhere near the puddling on the floor mat/saturation of the undermat as there usually would be with such a deluge. Is it possible the coating of silicone lube is somehow diverting or “encouraging” the water flow back into the route that it is supposed to be following? If so, that’s a pretty simple and cheap hack that I wish I had known about and tried many years ago with Superblue!
Are you saying that the silicone coating may have swelled the door seal to make a “water-tight” fit - would be great if this works.
That could be a possibility … We have had soaking rain here for the past couple of days … I’ll see how watertight the floorboard is in the a.m… If it turns out it didn’t do the trick, you got me to thinking about something … Isn’t how those power steering fluid stop-leak products work (as well as engine oil stop-leak) is that they cause the (rubber) seals to swell up a bit, back to near original tolerances? If so, I wonder if rubbing the outside of the door seal down with one of those products might do the same thing for it?