Where's the Left Rear Relay Bank?

Been trying to install my new anti-slosh relay, which the factory books say is at the end (i.e. toward the front of the car) relay bank on the left side of the boot. A few weeks ago I needed to replace my fuel pump relay, which (in the '94 4.0 coupe) is located on the right side of the boot on the relay bank there. All I had to do was remove that right rear corner piece of carpet/backing, and voila, there it was. :+1: However, with the left side relay bank, I removed the corner piece of carpet on the left rear and there was almost nothing behind it (except for a very small, white 4- or 5- wire connector, which I assume is for a CD changer, if the car had come with one?) :confounded: Further back is the fuel tank, and i assume even Jaguar would not put a relay bank behind that, requiring removal of the tank to r/r any of the relays in it. :roll_eyes:

I did notice there is a black metal plate attached to the left side of the boot bulkhead, just behind the lower anchoring point for the lift strut. It is kept in place with a pair of what look like 10 mm. (?) hex head bolts. Is the bank behind that plate?

The FRONT MATTERS of the Electrical Guide S72_94_4L.pdf has all the info you need.

It shows COMPONENT PANEL LOCATION and RELAY IDENTIFICATION and LOCATION.
It is a 6.5mb download. Search the interweb for it.
I know Gus has it on his site because I sent it to him years ago!!

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/Elect-Tech%20All2/94%20XJS%204.0L%20Electrical.pdf

bob

Hi Bob … yep, I already had that drawing and used ti to guesstimate where in the boot the relay bank was located. I think what I may do (didn’t think of this earlier) is to take my Lizardcam and snake it around that area to see if I can spot the relay bank on its screen. btw, ltns and hope you are doing well over there and staying warm … ! :slightly_smiling_face:

I removed the plate to access the module. Even with it off it is difficult to r & r the module. Have a stick available to support the deck lid.

Gordon

Thanks, Gordon. :slightly_smiling_face: I’ll give it a go, now. btw, I took another look at the relays on the right side of the boot, for reference, and noticed that actually they are not mounted to a bank bar (i.e. like the forward one in the engine compartment) but rather are just a cluster of relays hanging down. Is that the norm, or did the PO remove the bar for some reason? Are the left side relays mounted to a bar or just hang down as well?

O.K., I finally located the relays, and they too are just hanging down form above instead of being mounted on a rail bank. Sometimes I think Jaguar needs to include directions as to “physical orientation and positions” in their factory workshop literature, as I have discovered more and more frequently that when working on Jags you have to put yourself into some awkward or even embarrassing position in order to reach the parts and effect repairs, e.g. "while bending over left front fender place right knee on top of fender and crawl forward, reaching left hand underneath the ______ to feel for the ______ … " . :angry: The secret to locating the anti-slosh relay (w/o removing anything) is just to, while standing behind the car with the boot lid open, reach up behind the left side boot light and over the top of the wheel arch and stick your left hand as far as you can back there, gently pulling down whatever your hand grabs onto that is loose. Once you have it down and visible, then to r/r the relay switch, move to a position alongside the left rear fender facing toward the right fender. Bend over and grab the relay with one hand and the connector with the other hand and pull apart. :triumph:

I was surprised to find out when I went to pull the relay from the connector that just the case slid back into my hand, leaving the circuit board attached to the connector. :open_mouth: After removing the circuit board from the connector and examining things more closely, it appears that the PO had apparently at one point had an issue with the relay, too (which, btw, was stamped “6/94”), and had removed it and taken the cover off (by prying open the case), failing to glue the case back in place (or at least use black RTV sealant to seal it back up) before re-connecting it to the connector. The funny thing is I didn’t see any breaks in the solder of the c.b., either new or old ones that had been repaired. :confused: If he didn’t repair it, why bother even re-attaching it to the connector? Possibly he thought that the resistance of the relay itself was important to the car’s circuits somehow (?) The bottom of the case (i.e. the top end) did contain a small amount of rust residue, as did the top edge of the circuit board, which I’m thinking may have resulted from the case being left unsealed, allowing condensation to form inside the unit. I have to wonder now that if I had known the situation beforehand that if I had just removed the rust, sprayed the parts liberally with electrical contact cleaner, and sealed the case back up with RTV if I could have been spared the $120.00+ I paid for the new relay. (?) :confounded: