Where's the "V-12"s?

Been trying to find replacements for the trunk lettering for Superblack, as hers have all faded almost to “superblack” … :frowning_face: No problem in finding the “Jaguar” and the “XJS” shiny new chrome-plated (colored?) parts for only $11.00 a piece, but apparently the “V12” part is still not obtainable, at least not new. I found several threads on “that other Jaguar forum” about the subject, some dating back many years, and apparently Jaguar stopped manufacturing the piece back around that time. :stop_sign: I guess there are just not enough '92-'96 5.3 and 6.0s still on the road to be worth justifying the production costs to Jaguar (or an aftermarket supplier). :cry: Anyone have any ideas on this? Some of the posters on that forum mention people who have software they can use to create a new “chrome” vinyl sticker that will go over the face of the piece and that have in fact gone with that method, but that doesn’t sound too durable and doesn’t interest me.

I’ve been thinking of trying this approach using my old piece: Step #1 - after a little “prep sanding”, re-spray the face of the piece using Dupont’s chrome-colored paint which “adheres to plastic” Step #2 - cover the (dried, of course) face of the piece with a piece of painter’s tape Step #3 - take my touch up paint for Superblack and carefully repaint the edges of the piece from the backside with the little brush Step #4 - remove the painter’s tape, and … voila! (that’s French for “wah-lah!” :laughing: ) :triumph:

Self adhesive 3D letters and numbers for wall clocks.

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I see that SNG has them, and eBay too, both early ( larger ) and later version. New and used.

Painting the emblems is really pretty easy. I just did that as mine were looking pretty sad. I opted for enamel modeling paint that you find at a HobbyStore. I tried several different ones and liked the Testors Model Master #274039 - Silver Chrome Trim the best. It went on smoother and without the blackish-silver swirly effect you get with the Silver Metallic ones. I simply used a small modelling brush to apply it. I did two coats to build up the paint just a bit. Brushing from side-to-side seemed to work the best. I then went back with an Xacto knife and scraped away the excess on the sides where I got too sloppy.

Prep was easy…just a bit of acetone on a rag and wiped the existing finish right off the emblems. No sanding required (at least on mine). Make sure you get the enamel paint and not acylic (water-based). The paint is not “chrome” so don’t expect it to look like it. But it is a nice bright silver and passes the 3-foot rule. :slight_smile:

All in all I’m quite happy with the results. I really didn’t want the bother of removing the emblems and then having to worry about getting them back in the right place.



I tried Ebay but couldn’t find anything but the “Jaguar” and “XJS” badges for the face-lifts. I’ll give ole SNUG a try, but IIRC that’s the usual suspect that had, “sorry, this item is no longer available” on their website’s listing for it. :frowning_face:

That’s a nice approach with a nice look, Matt. btw, funny how in the Jag factory workshop manual for the face-lifts they have a chart that shows PRECISELY where the trunk badging is to be properly located, with measurements in the mms. :laughing: What I have done with my other Jags in the past is to take painter’s tape and use a strip of it to “underline” the existing badges in place on the car before removal. To make sure it/they are also properly centered left to right, I take another strip of tape and run it down along the left (or right) edge of the badge also, before removal. Makes it a snap to make sure the replacement badges end up in the right place(s). :+1: Of course, that method only works if you are only r/ring badges and not repainting that area of the car. Another trick I use is to not just rely on the supplied 3-M adhesive tape to hold them onto the body. I’ve had them come loose before that way … WM sells a small tube of “emblem adhesive” in the auto. bodywork supply section (looks and smells like the old-fashioned “airplane glue” model adhesive to me), and I use that in addition to the tape. Works excellent.

If you search eBay for the Jaguar part number for that V12 emblem, BEC4717, you will find one that SNG Barratt has for sale for $35.


Thanks, Paul #2, … I’ll check it out, but the Classic guide is saying the one I need is # BEC 22058 (replacing two prior #s) ? :confused: That part # is for the larger one for the pre-face lifts, like that in Matt’s pic, per the Guide.

I try to pretend that I don’t see “V I2” ( vee eye two ) at all and that it says V12. But my graphic designer eye twitches uncontrollably.

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ATTY, pic of my front plate, says it ALL!


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Well, now I can’t unsee that.


In Roman numerals, 6-2.

Try this guy:

LOL, Ron … You oughta sell those :wink: (oops - maybe not, it has the Jag logo on it :blush: )

The thing is, anyone who makes a replica would have to replicate the font style of the “XJS” emblem, else it wouldn’t look right … In the face-lifts Jag went with kind of a funky (“mod”?) font style with the emblems … :writing_hand:

My mom used to always refer to “double-oh seven” (James Bond) as “ot ot seven” … I never understood that until later in life, as I guess “ot” is considered a variation on “oh” (0) … ? I noticed they did the same thing in those episodes of The Beverly Hillbillies

dealing with Bond, e.g. “I’m a double-ot spy” … :tv:

I believe it’s spelled “aught”:

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You, and @Taz:grimacing:

Ah, like “caught” or “taught” with the first letter dropped … :thinking:

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double ought seven???