Hi guys,
I am after rebuilding my 63 3,8 E-type in the start up process. Everything as motor and carbs has been refurbished, distributor replaced with a Dutch 123 distributor.
Low idling screw 3 turns
Fast idling zero
Mix screw 2,5
Petrol new without any traces of ethanol
Trouble is car stops at choke below half level. Even when cooling fans start operatinng it stops.
Idle is then a around 2.000 rpm.
Ignition is set static and I have adjusted dynamically with stroboscope
Needles are UM
I have tried richer adjustment up to 3,5 turns
Have also tried 4 turns on idle screws
1 full turn on fast idle screw
When I adjusted dynamically I had blocked the connection for the brakes. Now blocked the brake vacuum connectu\ion, no change.
Lets peel back the banana…
Disconnect the choke cable…Make sure the 3 choke rods are EQUAL and forward and bottomed out, forward all together…
Once thats okay
Reset your jets …bring them all flush the 2 1/2 down ,
Make sure your NEEDLES ARE ALL EVEN …Butt each one up to each other they should just barely touch needle to needle, easy way that all three are even.
Bottom out slow mix screw then back out 2 turns…
THENNNN disconnect your throttle linkage, make sure all three butterflies are flush and closed.
Once that is done BACKOUT all choke screws then using a piece of paper turn choke screws till it touches the paper
You should be real close
With all that done, make sure your vac advances is plugged start car and set to 10 btdc.
Maybe you have to turn to 3 turns on jets for more gas, you should be close…
re hook up your choke cable…
YOUR CHEATING WITH THE CHOKE…GOOD LUCK~!
GTJOEY1314
PS you could have a HUGE VACUUM LEAK but try the above first…
pm me if you get stuck…
I think it should be a little slack on that little horizontal link to each butterfly shouldn’t it? What do you recommend ?
I have now zeroed out the needles, so that all are equal length from piston, 2 turns low idle screw, zero touch just with a paper in between on the fast idle screw and 2,5 turns fuel air mix screw.
Undo the shaft clamps. Rotate each butterfly until it’s closed and hold it there while tightening the associated clamp. Forget the paper nonsense. Back out the fast idle screws so that there’s a clear air gap between the screw and lever. They aren’t engaged once the choke is off, so get them out of the way for now. That should get you to the point where the mixture volume screws control the idle.
If you’re absolutely positive the distributor was set at 10 BTC, then it’s unlikely a distributor problem. But if you still can’t get it to idle, pull the cap and inspect the carbon center contact.
Mike its a 123 dizzy, If he removes the cap and leaves just the positive wire on the coil…Then turn the key, He can set tdc with the green light, but its starting up.
Does it stall with the other adjustments?
Just to make sure we are all speaking to the same parameters
To set up the idle air volume screw, it should first be screwed in all the way, then unscrewed the number of turns. Say three turns.
To set up the air/fuel mixture adjustment screw, take the dashpot off the carb, unscrew (counter clockwise) the mixture screw until the jet rises up and is flush with the bridge. Then screw it clockwise 2 1/2 turns. This will position the jet about 55 thou below the bridge
Another thing to check is if you have set the float level correctly. Did you set the level according to the manual ?