Windscreen trim fitting

Help! after multiple attempts by myself and now a professional windscreen installer we are unable
to install the chrome trim on the front and rear windscreens of my 1969 FHC. When I bought the car
they had recently installed the glass but no trim. I ordered the ones available from Moss but no go.
Should I try another supplier or seek out new or used old stock? thanks for your help. Harlan

It’s one of the hardest jobs on the car even with the original factory installed parts. 4 hands helps, as does an assortment of plastic tools and soapy water in a spray bottle. These clamps help a lot as it tends to want to keep popping out until it’s fully fitted. Patience and perseverance are essential. for this task. Some judicious bending may be needed. Some seal position adjustment may be needed. I helped Drew install the original rear window trim and it was actually necessary to trim one of the ends because they overlapped and prevented the joining clip from going on. If it won’t stay seated, then a bit of 3M trim cement may be necessary, then cover with gaffers tape until it sets.

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+1 on everything that Erica has said and suggested. It’s a bloody nightmare, back and front. EXTREMELY frustrating and it will get you thinking “I’ll just cut it into short pieces and glue the damned stuff in there”…now I didn’t do that, but almost!!

This may help. As noted, a very frustrating job. You might want to order your trim from SNG Barrett, although it is not clear if there is more than one supplier that the various companies use.

This was one of the most frustrating jobs on my car. I think it took me 2 days to get the lower windscreen chrome installed! Erica’s advise is solid; the only change I had to make was using Vaseline in lieu of soapy water as the water would evaporate too quickly.

I’m in the middle of having a used right side A-post windshield chrome replated. This is the second time one has blown off into the weeds along Interstate 20. It’s getting to be expensive. I used 3M black trim adhesive. Is there a better option? The first part had screw holes,which I had repaired during rechroming…I’m thinking about creating an epoxy gripping surface on the back side of the chrome piece.

Plus 1 on SNG as a supplier but I have to say, I got my new trim from them a couple of years back and had exactly the same problem we’ve all experienced. My thinking is it’s all the same manufacturer.

It’s also worth mentioning that I reused the “original” trim on the rear hatch and it also was a swine to fit back on. Took two of us, each with three hands!

Original = was on the car when I got it 26 years ago.

for all my trim pieces on multiple cars I used this lactate product it will hold well

How are you using the 3m product? The way I was shown is to first clean both parts with degreaser, then apply the goo to both parts and let it set up for 2 minutes. Then rewet one part with fresh goo to act as a bonding agent between the two parts. It needs to have large contact areas, not just a couple tiny spots.

Since it’s chrome you might need to scuff the back side a bit, but I’ve never needed to do so. If it blew off I’m guessing you didn’t use enough goo. There are big voids in there and you need an adequate amount of contact points because that stuff sets rock hard. I have to use a lot of solvent to remove it.

Yes, I think the issue has been a too slick surface on the back side of the trim piece…new chrome in both cases. While I haven’t been able to find the two lost parts (probably stuck in someone’s radiator), the adhesive remaining on the windshield seal appears to indicate the bond failed on the trim part interface. (I did use liberal amounts of sealant, but did not use the pre-cure procedure you suggested…will give it a try). I’ll also check out the Loctite product. Thanks

for all my trim pieces on multiple cars I used this lactate product it will hold well.

Oh, the imagery!

I would be cautious with the use of urethane adhesives. Urethane will certainly make the part stick - but beware if you ever have to remove it.

If applied to painted metal, you can just about count on having to repaint the surfaces the urethane glue was applied to, because it won’t peel off and it can’t be dissolved by any solvent that won’t dissolve the paint as well.

And if the part is a thin piece of metal like many trim parts, it is possible you won’t be able to pry the part off without damaging or destroying the trim piece.


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I am going though the trim install on the windshield and several months ago on the hatch glass. I bought the car in May 2021 and the lower windshield trim and both hatch pieces were missing. I had to remove both front/rear glass because the gaskets were rotted and petrified. All of the reproduction trim came from Moss and none of it fit very well. (the existing upper windshield trim DID fit perfectly back into the reproduction gasket). A lot of the issues here are based on the profile/shapes of the reproduction trim being a little “off.”

The lower windshield trim came with a little curvature, but much more was needed. Fortunately it would bend with a moderate of force, so I kept trial fitting/bending until the curve got closer and closer. I used the blue clamps to help, starting in the middle so I could center it and working to the sides. I DID NOT use any lubricant (unlike the hatch trim) since it seemed to hold the trim better because of the friction, still pretty easy to lift the upper lip over the top of the trip after seating the bottom edge. The finishers are up next and I’m thinking a urethane adhesive and maybe some strip caulk or some sort of weather strip to fill the gap at the top between the finisher and the roof.

The rear hatch trim was more difficult, again the blue clamps helped tremendously. The lower lip at the top of the hatch does not quite reach the trim, but I’m close enough to get there with some slight bending and pressure, but may just leave it since it’s hardly noticeable.

I had the original trim: I tried for days to get it in, then finally gave up. When I sold the car, I put all the trim in the passenger compartment.

In my limited experience the rear hatch window trim is more difficult than the windscreen trim.

Talking to SNG I was told that a California outfit manages to glue it in place though I don’t know the specifics. That has opened up a possibility for attempting similarly. The problem is getting the folds to stay open and I may have the solution. I’m working on cutting short sections of 3/4” metal conduit and then cutting them in half lengthwise. This should create a tunnel over the trim. Stay tuned!

I was very fortunate to have the original unmolested trim pieces for my car, 1970 Coupe. The trim went in easily for both the wind shield and rear window. Those blue clamps are a huge help if you’re working alone.The only adhesive I used was on the front vertical pieces.

For the folds, I simply wet the rubber liberally with soapy water and worked the folds around the trim.