Ok, 63’ coupe windshield washer pump not working…pump spins fine, but maybe Im not testing properly…three electrical connections:
“+” = 12 volts,
“switch” = which basically turns on ground when applied, and
“-” = which is grounded to the bottle mount.
Should I not be able to apply 12 volts to “+” and ground the other two connections and it should run?
What am I missing? FYI this car was originally positive ground. thanks, JS
I’ve just replace a fairly new generic WWP as the gears were so loose they couldn’t creat sufficient draw/pressure. I had a pump from an XJ40 that I had wrecked and that goes great.
The pump will run both ways so you could just try changing the +/- connections to see if that works.
They are very cheaply made, but they don’t get used very often. Did you undo the center screw and remove it from the base and try it. They rust inside and the bushings could/probably are out of lube and may be seized. They are easy to disassemble.
Yep, Pulled the motor apart, a little rust, thats about it…cleaned everything, but it back together, spins fine, just nothing when I apply power,
try measuring resistance across the terminals. I don’t know what the correct resistance should be but it shouldn’t be open or shorted
Jeff I assume that if you put an ohm meter on the + and - tangs it’s an open circuit. You could start by checking continuity between the tangs and the brushes, if ok make sure the brushes are actually in contact with the commutator. Can’t help you much more that this. It may just be screwed.
Sorry Jeff but I never drive the car in the rain.Plus I don’t even have fluid in the container,so I can’t help.
On second thought is there an impeller in the tube? maybe it’s loose.
I understood that the motor and pump impeller spin fine and it is just not pumping? Is that correct?
I have had to jerry rig a switch on my XJ6 S11 due to the stalk finally failing to operate the washer, its just my tow car for the clubs trailer so anything goes with it 
Thanks everyone,the motor spins by “hand”, but nothing when applying voltage. Im going to check continuity as Terry mentioned above. thanks, Jeff S
Ok. When you took the motor apart did you polish the commutator up a bit with fine sandpaper making sure you cleaned the grooves. Then you also need to clean the brushes with sandpaper as well. If I remember they are not carbon-just spring steel or something like that. Little bit of oil on the bushings to finish up. That was all that was necessary in my dead washer motor. Hope you are as lucky.
Ok, pulled everything apart again…just to confirm…the adjusting screw is attached to the 12v lead. How is this suppose to adjust this? Im assuming just “touching” so that you have continuity? thanks, JS
Can’t really help you with that. I did not change anything in mine except to clean up the contact areas really well and then lube it. Common sense would dictate that you just want a light contact though but enough tension to minimize arcing.
Jeff. I just did a search on the etypeuk forum and found this description of the operation of the washer. I am wondering if the adjuster you show is the operation time adjuster mentioned in the description in which case it should not affect whether or not the motor runs. It would just need to be adjusted after the fact.
Many Thanks Geoff…its working! So here is what I did…found some additional documentation regarding the wiring and if you are using neg/pos ground. Reversed the leads since my car had been converted to negative ground and the motor would run as soon as I turned on the ignition (without hitting the washer switch). Backed off the adjusting screw until the motor stopped running. Hit the washer switch and it worked perfect. So now I have the wiring as: “black” goes to the 12v tab, Green/Blk goes to the center (did not change) and solid green goes to “B”. So basic issue was needed to be cleaned and wiring reversed.
Excellent. Maybe change the title of your thread so the next guy can find it with a search for washer motor refresh or something like that?
In addition to some of the fixes other have mentioned, I found that the old ceramic magnet in the 2SJ Screenjet pump motor on my '62 XKE had very little magnetism left after almost 60 years. It was 0.5" thick, so I replaced it with a stack of four 1/8" Neodymium magnets of slightly smaller diameter. https://www.magnet4sale.com/search-results/?q=nd044-52nm
If the pump runs backwards, either reverse the electrical connections, or if you want to keep the wiring as original, reinstall the magnet in the opposite direction.
The old magnet was held in with a rivet, but the new magnets stay in place fine without it. You can get new magnets with a hole in the center if you want to replace the rivet.
I also removed the restriction in the bottom of the water inlet below the pump, and disconnected the bimetalic thermal “timer” inside the motor. Now it pumps fluid pretty good as long as you activate the switch.
