After 8 years without a heater box, I’m trying to reinstall it with the proper seals. While i have figured out the seals right around the new heater core, I’m a little confused about the fitting of the internal seal kit. Specifically the 4 thin strips and ~2x6 inch 1/4 seal. Does it glue to the damper plate?
When I took mine apart it had a seal glued to the down side of the damper plate, and one on the box against the pivot on the core side of the damper (just got the heater box back in two days ago). I’m guessing the remaining seals go on the top and sides of the box to block the air when the damper plate is up. I didn’t bother putting any of those seals in, I removed a remarkable amount of rust from inside the box (including fabricating a new bottom plate), and the seals that came in my kit are open cell foam, and it looked like they would just trap water against my freshly painted parts. I’ve installed a more powerful motor, so I figured I could afford the leakier box (and a leakier box would just help dry it out), and the box does make a good “clunk” as the damper plate comes down, but I figure I can live with that. Anyway, YMMV.
This is one of those “fabricate, and put seals wherever they are needed” deals.
Seal it so when the door is open (cuts off air to interior), the air flow is indeed cut off. Seal it so that when the heater is “on”, the air is forced through the core, NOT around. Seal everything else so that the air doesn’t leak out of the system, and also so that hot air from the engine doesn’t get into the system.
Can I ask what you used to upgrade the motor?
I used a Pontiac Fiero motor and squirrel cage: MASSIVELY better. It requires rhe opening to be enlarged, which is made easier with a plasma cutter, or oxy-acetylene cutting torch.
Alas I don’t remember, it was a generic replacement that I picked up about 20 years ago, and the paper tags are gone. Sorry. All I needed to do with it was grind a flat on the motor shaft, and slightly elongate the mounting holes, it looks very stock.
On another note the long thin seals that came with the kit don’t go on the outlet, they are much to thin and light for that, the outlet was a separate gasket not included in the kit I purchased.
There is a great description of how to modify the Fiero fan motor for the etype. It is what i used. I had a hard time finding the site, since there are new sites that say they are the #1 in the world, etc. (fake news). But this is the way i did my upgrade and it works very well. Finally found a copy of the description and then the found the UK site. Here it is below.
http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2240&p=14630&hilit=heater+fan+upgrade#p14630
I read the best heater motor replacement is available from Graingers so I bought one, it is twice the rpm and uses less amps and near drop-in replacement and 1/3 the price.
Now that I have it, it works great, the only thing I had to do was paint it black, as it comes in silver.
Any chance of the part number? I have just looked on line and nothing seems to jump out at me.
Thanks
It used to be 2M197 but apparently it’s been replaced by this 3LCH7. Google that number and you will find multiple sources for buying one.
Thanks John, will do
Do you by any chance have a part number on that motor? When I went to the local Grainger store they could not find a replacement motor for me.
Len Wheeler
Tucson, Az
https://www.grainger.com/product/product/DAYTON-1-35-HP-DC-Permanent-Magnet-3LCH7
It came up for me with that part number. It looks pretty similar. I’d love to know whether the mounting studs are a direct or at least close fit and whether the current wiring and resistor can be used to maintain 2 speeds.
That’s odd. I just went to Grainger and typed in 2M197 in their search blank and got this:
saying that number is discontinued and offering the 2LCH7 as a substitute.
The specs look identical though.
Yes the new number for Graingers heater motor is 3LCH7 at $52.20 each
This thing spins at twice the speed of the original so make sure your drum fan that you have to install on it is in good shape…derek
yes the # is 3LCH7 at $52.20 each derek
It says the shaft is 1/4". Isn’t that too large for hole in the original fan? I’m not near my car ATM so can’t check.
I can’t remember the shaft size but I do remember just installing the jag fan on it.
derek
To answer your original question the 4 thin foam strips go around the opening on the rear vertical side that goes through the firewall into the interior ducting. The inner core has thin foam that completely covers the top and bottom of the core where it butts up against inside of the top and bottom of the box, There is also foam on each end of the core. In other words the core is sealed so air has to go through it and through nowhere else.There is thin foam under the circular fan cover on top that holds the grill, and a slightly thicker and large foam piece that glues on the side of the flap that closes onto the plastic piece on the floor of the chamber that permits air to exit the assembly into the engine compartment. Finally the are 4 foam “sticks” that are glued around the internal flange that butts up against the flap when it is vertical and attempting to stop air from entering the core chamber.