Viart says the positive cable should be run inside the sill. I have replaced the sills. There are two finger sized holes in the front of the sill, and none at the rear. Wray believes the cable may have exited the sill through the rear mud guard, which seems odd as that would put it in line with wheel dirt. It also seems as though I will need to run one leg of the wiring loom to the back. Does anyone have any knowledge on how these should be routed?
I found photos of my car during disassembly showing the battery cable did in fact enter the sill from the wheel well, and reference photos from Anders showing the cable entering the cockpit through a hole right rear.
Any other suggestions on reference material for correct routing of wires would be helpful.
Tho my XK120 is two years newer and a different “body style” (1953 DHC)
the Battery to Solenoid Cable on my DHC ran exactly as you described yours…
Not long after I bought my DHC (May 1967), we (DFW Area of Texas) has a
“snow storm” that made our roads icy… so I bought a pair of “Snow Chains” for
the DHC’s 16" rear wheels. I removed the spats, of course… As I drove along,
the “pigtail” ends of the chains continually “slapped” around the inside and outside
of my rear wheel openings, beating the hell outta the paint on the rear wing AND
eventually CUTTING the Battery-To-Solenoid Cable in half! All power to the engine
died!! I quit using “snow chains” that same evening!!!
Is there a better way to route the XK120’s Battery Cable?? Probably… BUT the
“Original Way” was as our 120’s were so built!..
I will NOT use this method when I reassemble MY XK120DHC! I’m thinking of either making a “shield” to cover that “open area” where the battery cable is “exposed”, or (as my DHC’s body is off the chassis) see if I can “find” a safer, more protected route.
On the “Wiring Loom”… I assume you mean the Wire Harness that goes into the Boot
Area and powers the reverse lamp, tail lights, etc. On my DHC, THIS harness runs thru the
drivers compartment, thru the battery box and into the boot from a hole located at the upper
right of the boot wall. (viewed as looking forward into the boot).
Charles Ch #677556.
Thank you Charles, I found the two holes from the sill cavity for the loom and cable to enter the cockpit area. I also found the hole in the inside of the sill on the right at the forward support for the wire loom to exit, go through the frame then to the reverse switch. Measurements of the loom line up, and got the wires (at least on that loom) figured out. Was stumped for a bit in the leg to the reverse switch thinking it should only be two wires until further review of the diagram that there are three wires on that end as the power daisy chains through the switch which explains why there are two power supply to pass the power back, and the reverse wire when the switch is on. The holes at the rear have been covered by rust repair/sill replacement, but shouldn’t be too bad to restore.
On mine the negative battery cable comes out the rear end of the right hand sill and turns up there to go through a hole in the battery shelf to the right of the right hand battery box.
The small wiring for the rear lights also turns up there and goes through a hole in the luggage compartment, where it splits off to the left and right sides and the fuel tank level sensor.
At the front end of the sill I have two holes with grommets, and the battery cable comes out the outboard hole going up to the solenoid, while the inboard hole has the small wiring going to the reverse light switch and rear lights. The fuel pump wire is separate and runs down through the channel brace on the scuttle, then through the chassis to the fuel pump.
my metal shaper mentioned that he though that was the case for the 140 and 150, both loom and cable exiting the top of the sill. Other research, and my replacement sill, show the reverse circuit exits the sill at the front support, then goes through the frame to the reverse switch. Measurements of the loom support this.
When you say the fuel pump wire runs down the channel brace on the scuttle, is that the same as the firewall? The brace between the clutch and brake pedal?
On mine the brace is between the starter solenoid and the right valence panel, cross section shape like a short hat.
One other question - I reckon all bolts, clamps, oval fender washers, wiring clamps etc. should be unpainted?
I don’t know that we have a super clear answer on that point.
I’ve been painting mine black so they won’t get rusty.
Later cars into the 140 era seem to have had cadmium plated but I have not found any on my '51 car.
I have found many ANF threaded bolts and nuts on the chassis that had a thin red wash paint, even down in the threads, so I’ve been painting them red.
Randy, When I took my '54 OTS apart I recorded the routes for all of the sections of wiring harnesses that were in the car and in my case those wires did come through the sill. Rob Reilly has included a link to my sketches in his post above which show that.
Wray Schelin did make my new sill pieces as well and I’m pretty sure the new pieces came with the correct holes punched in both ends.
I also think there’s an inner splash panel that goes on to at least partially protect the aft face of that B pillar and the wiring harnesses.