Wiring an SS100

Hi all. This is my first posting on this forum, so if this has already been discussed please forgive me; I read as much on this topic that was previously posted but essentially found little or nothing.

Anyway, my current project is building an SS100, starting with all the mechanicals and chassis of an SS 2.5 litre saloon, obtained by me a bit over 2 years ago sans coachwork, except for completely unusable bits & pieces of the saloon body, so please don’t lament that I’ve destroyed a perfectly restorable saloon; I haven’t!. (What little WAS usable went to another gentleman in Florida who’s restoring his own SS 2.5 litre saloon…)

So rather than recreate the missing saloon body, I decided to build what I really wanted, an SS100, starting with the saloon chassis & running gear, all of which is original, including the 2.5 litre SS engine. So, I started researching making this project happen, and I ran into some very interesting people! That’s when I came across Mr. Ed Nantes in Australia, but from a personal contact, not through this forum, which I’ve finally found & joined. Ed’s quite a contributor, I see!

Well, Ed referred me to a very nice man in Melbourne, who agreed to make me most of a new SS100 chassis- which was sent to me disassembled, (which is now assembled) to replace what I finally realized was unusable; another kind gentleman (also from Melbourne) provided me with a very nice SS100 repro tub, which now rests on my completed rolling chassis. Ed, I must say, has been an incredible resource on this project, providing me with tons of information and bits and pieces too numerous to list here. Thanks, Ed!

I started this project a bit over 2 years ago, working in my semi-enclosed workshop under my very steep hillside house; but after finally making room in my upstairs garage 2 weeks ago by selling my now-discontinued MG PA project, I’ll at last be starting on the second half od the project, which is fitting the running gear and mainly everything above the now-complete rolling chassis…not the least of which will be fitting the gas lined from tank to engine (meaning thru the reserve petrol valve, SU pumps, etc.) but also the new wiring harness. I do have the original saloon wiring harness, which sadly is only of use for the misc. Lucas electrical bits, but anyway I do have them, as well as the SS100 wiring diagram, but unfortunately my only reference to exactly how the harness was routed thru the car is thru photos of other SS100’s, restored ones of course, and the limitations imposed by the layout of the new harness; it can only fit into the chassis only so many ways.

What would be most helpful would be to have some sort of idea- diagram, maybe- as to where & how the harness traveled thru the firewall, exactly, and where and how it was routed behind the firewall & back to the rear of the car. Of course I can simply fit it where it will work, but having an idea of the original routing would save me a lot of time & trouble, not to mention not having to drill too many unnecessary holes in the firewall, etc… plus it would help me to get it as correctly fitted as possible, hopefully the first time. (When it comes to originality, it looks like there are a LOT of very, very picky people on this forum)… all I can say is that I’m trying to do the best I can, even if it is for a “rebody” project, not for a car originally built as an SS100.

Just for the record, my email is "saylor@redshift.com." My thanks for whatever anyone can come up with!

Cheers,
Rich Saylor
Monterey, California

Greetings Rich,

Bob Lovell here.

Are you looking to make your own harness?

Rhode Island Wiring makes correct harnesses, not cheap but correct. They also can add an extra wire or two for anything you might want to ad to the original, you know GPS, Anti-Lock brakes, electrically operated gullwing doors.

The big issue is that sometimes RIW will tell you they need to make more than one, like for a “club buy” to get the better price as the “one only” price is not usually mentioned until the buyer says they’ll look elsewhere, and then the buyer is usually so happy to be able to get one…the price is inconsequential.

The wiring , basically .

The regulator is mounted on the firewall LHS about half way up . FRom thetop a loom goes into the firewall for the dash and wipers
From the bottom a loom goes down into the LH chassis rail and forwards. There is a take off for the generator , then for the LH parklamps, headlamps horn and the loom then goed across the front cross member under tha fan belt to the RHS where there are take off s for RH P/lamls /H/lamp and horn. These are all in flexible conduits and the horn and headlamp conduits exit through the grille mesh. Then there is atke off loomto the steering ox juction box and it continues back with take offs to the starter solenoid andthe stop lamp switch. The remainder keeps on inside the chassis rail to the back for the tail/ stop. reverse lamp and tank sender urnit.

There is also a take off for the reverse switch on the gear box, i can’t remember from where but logically from the LHS to avoid being close to the exhaust
Depending on model, various other single wire under the bonnet, Starting carb fuel pumps , dist, coil etc are in small single wire flexible conduits.

Most visible parts of the loom are in flexible metal conduits

Hi, actually I had a new one made in Oz, with the extra wiring needed for rear turn indicators, which I’m adding, as well as a 2-bulb conversion of the wing lamps at the front, for the same purpose. I have yet to install it, though, but it looks very, very nice! However thanks for the advice- Cheers, Rich

PS I am about to send you a lengthy response to your next email, which I read first. -Rich

Dear Ed, thanks once again for your answers, you wasted no time in getting to my posting this AM! You might not recall, but I already have the complete loom (made in Oz!), but haven’t yet tried to fit it as I wanted to relocate the SS up to my enclosed garage- part of the house- so I could work on it without worrying about weather & uninvited visitors messing about- not particularly the 2 legged type but more like raccoons, cats, rodents, and deer. We even have mountain lions here. Honestly! Anyway the PA is due to be picked up this coming Monday, on its way to the UK. The SS is next, no more interruptions!

I’ll let you know of whatever progress I make, hopefully shortly. My best to you all-

Cheers,
Rich

I woke from an afternoon nap and realised the wiring for the tail lamps and petrol sender unit run down the LHS… along with the reverse lamp switch

Hi,

:smiley:

Gullwing doors… :smiley: Yeah! Believe it or not, someone as far as in Finland was offering a “kit” he had purchased, for sale, for a modern Jaguar S-type to turn the front doors into Lamborghini style vertical opening ones. :shock:

I was tempeted to ban him on our Finnish forum for both having very bad taste and for blesphamy! :wink:

I got a complete new wiring kit in lots of bags from RIW, Georg Dönni suggested me they do the best wiring and as far as I have checked, everything including the in-line fuse holders and connectors appears to be correct. Fortunately for me the 1950 US models already had directional indicators. They are not manadatory over here for cars that did not have those back then, but they can make traffic safer and save me from waving my hands everytime I take a turn.

BTW now over 3200 miles / over 5000 kms on the DHC! :slight_smile:

Cheers,

Pekka T. - 647194
Fin.

Pekka, I was banned by a Moderator on another Jag Forum because I was relentless, like others, on wanting a separate forum for SS era cars. We were lumped into the MKIV/MKV category.

I was told all “those” cars were now in capable hands and have been restored! I guess no need.

I believe the real reason was far too many SS owners were more knowledgeable in Jaguar and SS cars than GGG was and he felt threatened or intimidated.

I received a “LIFETIME” Ban…not sure who’s lifetime, his or mine?

A badge I wear with honor today!

From Ed Nantes:
There is also a take off for the reverse switch on the gear box, i can’t remember from where but logically from the LHS to avoid being close to the exhaust

On my 36 sedan the reversing light switch wires came off (and rejoined) the LHS rear loom shortly behind the scuttle.

Chris

Stanley: “I can’t drive my Jag now because I broke my turn signal.”
Ollie: “And how did you manage to break your manette control? Were you flipping it with your nose?”
Stanley: “No, the Doctor says I broke my Uncle Radius.”
Ollie: “That is not the least bit humerus.”
Stanley: “Does this mean we can’t be car pals?”

Hello Rich.
Be aware that all mention of left/right etc, is from the drivers seat.
As Ed has stated, from the control/.fuse box the loom runs
engine side of the firewall, forward through the chassis, across under
the crank handle hole to the steering box connection and rearward
along the RIGHT hand chassis rail. Most UK SS100s were fitted with one
tail lamp rhs also fuel level sender is rhs, therefore its logical the loom is rhs.
I have posted some photos that may help. If photos do not land on this site
I will post direct, What spec are you building to? 1936/7 or 1938 on. Also what year is the donor car? Is a photo of the chassis poss.
Check out chassis number 249242 on the SS Data site.IMG_1001

Hello

If you Google SS100 Fantasy Junction there are sets of photos for a 36,37 & 39 SS100 that give under chassis views that may help with the routing of the wiring. The attached photos are of a 2.5 litre SS100 that show the conduits that Ed mentioned.

Cheers Peter

Hi Rob,

Appreciate your concern, and humor! :smiley:

But my manette control is working perfectly, it’s just that the bottom connector on the inside of the LH front wing is not getting voltage…actually now that I looked at it, seems also that the LH front sidelight/parking light is dead as well, maybe these things are connected…

Back to you guys wiring an SS100!

Cheers,

Pekka T.
Fin.

Hi, thanks for the recent info/wiring diagrams etc.- I don’t seem to have answered you question, sorry if I didn’t- I’m basing my SS100 recreation on a 1936 SS saloon, #10710. I will see if I can find a photo of the chassis before mounting the new tub on it- as I’m not sure how to post photos on this site I’ll email it/them to you directly.

Cheers,

Rich Saylor

Rich

Have only just seen your post where are you with your build email me brian.sewell@hotmail.co.uk i maybe able to help with some parts as im building a 100.

Regards
Brian Sewell.