Wood veneer for interior trim

Hi all, does anyone have a good UK supplier to re veneer my XK 140FHC dashboard and interior wood trim.
It is complete but needs refurb or re veneer.
Was trying to contact Nick Reeves in solihull but not able to get through and company house says he has dissolved company so any good alternative considered.
Thanks all Steve.

Are you sure? Have you tried his email - nfreeves@btinternet.com ?

He did my woodwork last year and I have contacted him quite recently. He’s only just completed a new workshop, so it’s a surprise if he’s closed. His work is truly exceptional.

He contacted me this morning and said no longer doing veneer and refurb work but can make me some replacement dash panels.

Oh dear, that’s a great loss! I think he’s still selling bits on ebay, too. If I hear of anyone else in the UK I’ll let you know.

Thanks, any contact appreciated.

Try London Carriage Craft Ltd in Watford. A pal tells me they did a great job on his TVR. Here’s their website http://www.london-carriage-craft.com/

I’ve no connection with this company. This is simply a suggestion to explore…

Thanks for input, I will give them a call as Watford is not far from me in Bedford.

Hi Steve,

I’ve had all my interior woodwork done by Nick Martin based in Spalding. He did a great job so highly recommended.



Thanks for input, will give him a call and see if he can fit me in, car body just of to paint now so its time to get interior bit ready,

Has anyone here restored their veneer themselves?

I made my own map drawer. Early 120 FHC is different from later cars, sits in a metal tray, no brass slides.

I got the walnut veneer from Owl Lumber in Lombard IL.
The technique is you soak the sheet in water to get it soft and pliable, no wrinkles. Then use Elmer’s water based glue to lay it down. After it dries, trim off and sand. Then polyurethane. Then wet sand and polish.

That looks amazing! I bought walnut veneer from a “local” wood shop but it didn’t match. I then found that I needed Russian walnut veneer so I ordered that from an outlet in Ohio. The grain and color are much better. Per a Jaguar veneer restoration posting on the web, I’ve made up a mixture of water, alcohol and glycerin and wetted the veneer then placed clean paper and weighted plywood on top. It has come out flat, wrinkle free and quite playable. I have the wood pieces ready to veneer but am still not sure which glue to use. I purchased some hide glue but now see that Tight Bond has a veneer glue. I’m going to research that a bit.
I have a vacuum bag system all made up for helping to keep the veneer flat.
I’m hoping to get to this next week.

I used Nick Martin. Absolutely stunning quality work.

That looks spot on and I have contacted Nick Martin to sort my woodwork out.
Thanks Steve.

Yes, many times over the years, getting better as I go.

I have repaired original veneer by letting in small pieces of old veneer, which works incredibly well if done properly, I saw they did this in a Rolls Royce factory Youtube, even with new veneer sheets

There are quite a few “learnings” along the way

first thing is hold the sheet up to light and see if there are any holes, as glue bleed through is an issue.

It must be at the “correct” moisture level when glued down as a bookmatch, otherwise it will contract apart at the bookmatch joint while drying.

color match grain filler can be used

acrylic paint can be used to disguise faults or joints,

corners and bevels are a whole new elevation, but can be done

experiment on scrap, not your favorite vehicles most visible pieces

My best upward curve came about when I got parts from a wreck that the veneer was trashed, and restored or re-veneered some of them, the results were pleasing enough I was able to swap them in, but finding color matched veneer to original can be difficult

Not the best pic, but these pieces were fire wood prior to restoration, now in my vehicle

Very nice! What glue did you use?

Also, what finish did you use, lacquer, varnish or other? Did you use high gloss, satin or rubbed effect?

tried 2 glues, quick contact, (dries quick but yellow) and white wood glue (dries clear)

Its really very important to stop it bleeding through and clean up squeezes out at the edges, as both will basically ruin any attempt at a perfect finish

finish is a very personal subject, even there is some disagreement

Many use french polish, which is easy and good, and supposedly original in some Jags

I personally chose gloss urethane single pack lacquer, as it is easy to work with and gives a mirror finish (eventually)

There is a quite a lot of info on Youtubes, I also have a book, a few guys on here have done it, I just got the walnut veneer of eBay, it was not expensive, although it can be hard to get long lengths

most available stuff is darker in color, which suits most MK7, XJ, XKs that I have seen

MK8-8-10-420G have a lighter honey color. It is hard to obtain a match for this, some say the veneer is Carpathian elm, not walnut veneer

It is immensely expensive to have a 420G re done by pros, the 2nd most expensive vehicle they quote, one model of Rolls being higher, 420G has 43 wood pieces.

Its quite time consuming to do this, but a good hobby to work on, I can now do minor repairs on original pieces and it cannot really be detected, and also re-veneer whole pieces. Mastering minor repairs on your original vehicle is a good skill to have

here is an example of one redone with wood that is not walnut veneer, think its African Elm

Tony, that looks very nice. Well done!
I bought a bunch of Walnut burl from a “local” wood shop in Western MA. It turned out to not look like the original veneer in my MK V. I then searched around and found a shop in Ohio that had Russian (Caspian) Walnut burl which looks exactly like the remnants of my original veneer. I have the the wood pieces ready to veneer and have a vacuum bag set up. I’ve just been having trouble deciding on which glue to use and also find the time to finish this step.
I see that Tite-Bond makes a veneer glue. I think I’ll try that on a scrap piece first to see how it works.
Most of the videos and written tutorials say to veneer both side to keep the pieces from warping but my original pieces don’t have any veneer on the back sides. Do you have an opinion on this?
Thanks for your help.


I also did my own. VERY painstaking, took a month and the beveled edges were very tricky.