Starting a interior restoration of a 61 Mark 9, can somebody assist with the type of burl veneer? the one article I read said they used Carpathian Elm Burl veneer. Any assistance is appreciated.
as far as I am aware, Walnut veneer is original.
the MK9 has complex veneer with a light color, and underlying straight grain veneer on some sections, that is then overlaid with walnut burl veneer
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Gerard
How bad are your veneers?
Are they lifting or missing and will need replacement?
Both some in good shape (strip sand and refinish) Some pieces need spot repairs and some pieces need re-veneering
Mike Morse
You got to be very careful sanding veneer, its less than 1/32" thick
here is some repairs I made on spare pieces that looked fit only for firewood
picnic table before
stripped and ready for surgery
completed
so this piece had many faults, including water damage & fading, cracked, chipped & lifting veneer.
I did not attempt to dye the faded area. The damaged and operated on veneer is original
As it looked better than the item that is in my car, I swapped them over
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Looks great what did you use for the finish?
Mike Morse
In the case of these examples single pac marine-grade polyurethane, hardware store spray can.
a process is followed, laydown a coat, let it dry, rub back, usually 6 or so thick coats needed
a very glossy final coat from the can can be achieved, if you can find a dust free environment
(that is how these were done)
a tip I picked up from a pro…if you want the ultimate finish…poly is too soft to polish to a high shine, so he did up to 30 coats with 2pac poly, followed with auto clearcoat, and polish that if ultimate high shine is desired.
I prefer not to use 2pac, as it is very difficult to strip, and more difficult to work with
note: I coat back and sides of wood with poly…delamination starts with unprotected areas
spot repair sections.
My A-pillar veneer was shot, looked awful, despite early previous failed repair by me
a useable piece of veneer is lifted from a wrecked item…the color will match!
let the item in from above with a scalpel…follow natural lines in wood for cut to be less visible, fill any crack with mixture of dyed wood putty mixed with veneer sanding dust
a-pillar back in place, you cant see the inlay, very happy with it.
entirely re-veneering items with compound curves introduces its own issues
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