Ok all this stuff would be easier with the body off, but here is the front suspension assembly order.
Steering rack first, with adjusting shims
Shaft supporting lower wishbone levers (there is a front and back, they should align with the torsion bar rear ends, don’t get them on backwards, and some of the bolts are shoulder bolts, made for accurate alignment, so put them in the right holes.)
Two rubber bushings on shaft (I like to use liquid dish soap to lubricate them as I assemble them)
Lower wishbone lever rear (there are left and right, be sure you know which)
Rubber bushing, flat washer, nut and split cotter pin (I like to use anti-seize on the threads, some body some day will bless you if you do)
Lower wishbone levers front
Rubber bushing, flat washer, nut and split cotter pin
Shaft supporting upper wishbone levers
Two rubber bushings on shaft
Upper wishbone levers front
Rubber bushing, flat washer, nut and split cotter pin
Upper wishbone levers rear
Rubber bushing, flat washer, nut and split cotter pin
Assemble lower ball pin into stub axle carrier, measure the gap in the cap, add that amount of shims, tighten the bolts and feel the movement; it should be fairly snug, not tight and not a lot of free play.
Notice there is a left and right stub axle carrier. The difference is a pair of flat spots provided for doing caster alignment. They should be on the opposite side from the steering arms.
Assemble steering arms to stub axle carriers
Assemble upper ball joints into stub axle carriers
Assemble stub axle carriers to lower wishbone levers
Assemble upper ball joints to upper wishbone levers, duplicating the “as found” caster alignment shims if you took note of them, otherwise caster is just a guess at this point.
Work the rubber bushings up and down so the neutral position is more or less at normal riding height. That’s what the dish soap is for.
The factory boys probably had a way to do caster and camber alignment on the chassis before the body was on; you could do it with the chassis on 7-1/8" blocks and raising the axles to half a tire diameter, before the torsion bars were on.
Connect tie rod ends to steering arms
Flanges for front end of torsion bars
Torsion bars (rear ends are stamped NS for left side and OS for right side which is a secret code intended to confuse and mystify Americans who have no idea why they are called near and off) Be absolutely sure you have them on the correct sides as they are pre-stressed to be twisted in only one direction, and if you put them on the wrong sides they will be twisted in the wrong direction and soon break.
Levers for adjustment of torsion bars
Special T-head bolts for torsion bar tension adjustment
Long brass nuts for torsion bar adjustment, but leave them loose for now, the adjustment comes after the car is fully assembled.
Brackets for anti-roll bar links
Anti-roll bar links, bushings, flat washers, split cotter pins
Anti-roll bar, rubber bushings, flat washers, split cotter pins
Anti-roll bar chassis bearings, saddle brackets
Shock absorbers
Brake backing plates
Wheel hubs
Brake cylinders
Brake fluid lines
Brake shoes
Brake drums
I don’t think I missed anything.
Press on.