Thanks, I think I’m safe, original owner car with 120km, 72K miles.
Based on my experince of those bolts, I would recommend investing in an ‘extractor socket’ since I found that a quality six point impact socket was stll not man enough to ‘crack’ some of those bolts.
A bit of progress to report, with some pics. It took me the better part of the weekend to get things apart and remove the axle stubs on both sides. First came the right rear, other than a leaky seal undamaged, then the left rear, with the crushed bearings, which in the end, after axle stub flange bolts were removed (yes they were tight, but not quite as tight as axle stub to half shaft nuts), I ended up having to drift the stub out with a long stout bar passed through from right rear side contacting the end of the splined axle stub shaft, as the crushed bearings and loose race were hanging up in the diff. The left side axle stub basically came out in pieces, with ball bearings and shredded bearing cage and race raining down on the driveway under the car. I gave the inside of the diff a wipe and it seems no less for wear.
Here are the two stubs, presented to you in a beer flat, cause those are plentiful around here:
Note some of the bits of bearing and cage within the stub to diff flange. I’m still collecting, and counting balls, whole ones count as one, half bits count as, well…half point. I imagine I’ll have to come up with a strategy to flush the diff out in situ.
One can see the pitting in the race and scoring on the collar.
So while I await parts from Rock Auto to show up, and I am not really sure whether I, or they, get it right with the order, I am considering Coventry West for used rebuilt axle stubs, at about $150USD plus $50 core, and dispatching with finding suitable press facilities with all the right bits and peices to separate the collars and races. Is this usually done with a bearing splitter, or a well equipped press?
Any advice from those who have done this rebuild themselves greatly appreciated.
Your bolts should be fine but I would replace them as they are not the best looking. The collars are removed by drilling a hole in the retainer and then cracking it per shop manual. Pressing the seal retainer, bearing and collar at the same time is next. Cradling the seal retainer is tricky as to much pressure and you can bend it. If you elect to do this yourself, all of the components are available as good used. Make sure the sealing surface is polished so the new seal will seal good. My main concern is that all of the metal bits have been floating around inside the diff. It is necessary to get them all out of damage to the remaining bearings will result. If you had a magnetic drain plug, clean it and hope it catches any remaining debris if you go that route. There should have been some spacer rings. I see a couple in the back of the picture. Make sure that these go back in the diff housing before putting the axles back in. . Total thickness is approx .120-.130. Early cars used three and the later ones used two thicker washers to come up with the same thickness.