I posted this note a few days ago … no responses. I cannot believe no one
has attempted this work … and struggled through the pitfalls. I know this
is a bit more technical than changing a shift knob, but there are members
that could handle this work in their sleep.
A little help?
Gentlemen,
I have recently experienced “ABS” and TRAC Fail" warning lights on the
instrument panel of my 95 XJ12. The problem seems to come and go … so I
decided to check the wheel sensors for problems so as to eliminate this
nuisance.
The fronts were very easy to inspect, remove, clean and perform a continuity
check. In fact, the fronts seem in good condition with both sensors reading
approximately 1160 ohms. No electrical connector problems observed.
The rears are a bit more of a problem. Since the sensor electrical
connectors are under the rear seat cushion, I read the sensor resistance
from the Control Module Connector. The left rear was approximately 1150
ohms. However the right rear showed definite problems … over 7k ohms.
Obviously, nothing like the other three. I decided to attempt to remove the
right rear sensor … its frozen in place. I can move it a little bit, but
not in a vertical direction. And yes, the mounting fastener is removed.
Question 1 – Is there a trick to removing the rear wheel speed sensors?
Question 2 – The replacement directions say "displace the rear seat cushion
at the brackets (apparently at the front of the seat cushion on each side)
… How is this “displace” accomplished?
Help and guidance on these problems would be appreciated.
In reply to a message from John R. Pring sent Thu 25 May 2006:
I had these done recently at the garage, the guy who worked on the
car said they were completed corroded/welded themselves on and were
a nightmare to get off.
If you can get a garage to agree fixed price for doing the work it
might be worth paying someone to do it for you!–
Chris - 95 XJR (Manual), West Sussex, UK
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Hi John,
I’m still struggling to free my rear sensors. Your one step ahead of me
in that at least you can move one a little. Mine are totally frozen. I
am attacking them in stages. Lots of penetrating fluid and then leaving
them a few days. I will be trying again on Saturday. With my front
sensors, one came out quite easily whilst the other was like your
slightly loose rear. I just kept adding penetrating fluid and twisted it
to and fro until eventually it freed itself (took about an hour). What
ever you do, don’t use force as you will end up having to buy a new one,
not cheap. Once they are all free, I intend to remove mine once a year,
clean, coat in vaseline and replace.
HTH
Chris C
John R. Pring wrote:> Guys,
I posted this note a few days ago … no responses. I cannot believe no
one has attempted this work … and struggled through the pitfalls. I
know this is a bit more technical than changing a shift knob, but there
are members that could handle this work in their sleep.
A little help?
Gentlemen,
I have recently experienced “ABS” and TRAC Fail" warning lights on the
instrument panel of my 95 XJ12. The problem seems to come and go … so I
decided to check the wheel sensors for problems so as to eliminate this
nuisance.
The fronts were very easy to inspect, remove, clean and perform a
continuity
check. In fact, the fronts seem in good condition with both sensors
reading
approximately 1160 ohms. No electrical connector problems observed.
The rears are a bit more of a problem. Since the sensor electrical
connectors are under the rear seat cushion, I read the sensor resistance
from the Control Module Connector. The left rear was approximately 1150
ohms. However the right rear showed definite problems … over 7k ohms.
Obviously, nothing like the other three. I decided to attempt to remove
the
right rear sensor … its frozen in place. I can move it a little bit, but
not in a vertical direction. And yes, the mounting fastener is removed.
Question 1 – Is there a trick to removing the rear wheel speed sensors?
Question 2 – The replacement directions say "displace the rear seat
cushion
at the brackets (apparently at the front of the seat cushion on each side)
… How is this “displace” accomplished?
Help and guidance on these problems would be appreciated.
Thanks for the reply … your approach is similar to the method I intend to
use. This will be a penetrating oil project. The rears are vertically
mounted so perhaps gravity will benefit the dispersion of the penetrant.
Yes, the sensors are ridiculously expensive so care in removal will be a top
priority. However, my right rear sensor does indicate a problem with
resistance (far more than 1150 ohms) so if necessary, it will be expendable.
I am going to read the resistance again. This time it will be from the
actual sensor electrical connector (under the rear seat) just to ensure I do
not have some funky connector resistance problem.
In reply to a message from getawayhs2 sent Thu 25 May 2006:
For what it is worth, on my XJ40 I had a bad ABS wheel sensor that
gave me a fit to remove.
When I bought the X300, the first time I changed the brake pads, I
pulled the sensor and put a little anti-sieze on it. Later when I
did the rear brakes I did the same. The rears seem to get stuck
easier. Now as a routine, whenever I am doing brake work or the
like, I will R&R the sensors. One 6mm bolt and they are out.
Perhaps this should be doen whenver you lube the caliper slide
pins.–
The original message included these comments:
I had these done recently at the garage, the guy who worked on the
car said they were completed corroded/welded themselves on and were
a nightmare to get off.
If you can get a garage to agree fixed price for doing the work it
might be worth paying someone to do it for you!