My 1995 Vanden Plas has a bad clunk when going over bumps in
the right rear area. I’m in Annapolis, 600 miles from home.
Took it to a Midas shop, they put it on hoist and pried on a
rubber bushing that is located just forward of the right rear
wheel. It looked like it had separated. I think it goes between
the subframe and the car body. You can just kneel down next to
the car and put your eyeballs and hands on it when the wheels
are on the ground. Kinda donut-looking thing with some metal
in it.
Anyway, they say the only way to fix it is to drop the
entire rear subframe to press it out and a new one in. $1250.
Any thoughts? Since it’s so easily accesible isn’t there some
shortcut to replacing it? There’s one large bolt through the
middle of it. Maybe hack the old one out somehow and use the
bolt with a giant washer to press the new one in?
I think it was clunking all the way here (600 miles) from
Michigan but I blamed it on a tiny utility trailer I was
pulling. Imagine my disappointment when I unhooked the trailer
and it was still there…
Part Deux: I’d love to change it when I get back home. Could I
drill like four holes through the bushing from bottom to top
and put four bolts with big washers through it to hold it
together and keep it from clunking till I fix it? Brilliant,
no?
Please tell me the whole subframe doesn’t have to come
down…and will it hurt it if I clunk all the way back home?
Other than my sanity…–
1990 XJS convertible, 1995 Vanden Plas
Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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In reply to a message from Frederick Fischer sent Wed 27 Apr 2016:
I’ve read of folks that have been able to replace that
bushing with the sub frame pretty much in-place.
And, as easy as the either the sub frame, or the entire rear
suspension is to drop, I cannot imagine how they justify a
$1250 quote for the work.
In the short term, I’d get a tube of polyurethane sealant,
fill the bushing with the stuff, give it a day to cure and
you should be fine to drive for a while.–
02 VDP – Driveway’s got too many SAABs in it!
Tampa Fl, United States
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In reply to a message from Frederick Fischer sent Wed 27 Apr 2016:
http://jimbutterworth.co.uk/8rearsuspension.htm
Have bought the subframe mount and am going to do it shortly.
Above link has a tech data sheet about replacing.
Thank be for Mr Butterworth.
Regards David–
1995 XJ6 VDP Everyday.1994 VW Eurovan GLS .Pontiac G3 Wave
Listowel,ON, Canada
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At 04:26 PM 4/27/2016, you wrote:
will it hurt it if I clunk all the way back home?
The bushing is there to take up shock. Each time it hits, it’s
putting stress on the subframe and the mounting area on the car. Do
it enough, and the metal on one/both will fatigue and crack.
I took a look at the one on my 98 XJ8. That’s one huge bushing!
Rubber at the bottom, then a metal plate, then a ring of metal over
that which seems to be supporting a rubber piece on top. I suspect
inside of the metal ring is one big piece of rubber. It’s not a
bearing where you’d take it apart and press a new one in. It’s like a
giant washer with rubber bits on either side. It seems to be held in
only by that big bolt. If I had a parts manual for the car, I’d
confirm that it’s one part. There is a Jaguar dealer in Annapolis.
I’d suggest you call their parts department (or stop by so you can
see the picture of how it goes together) and ask about that part.
I don’t think you need to take down the entire subframe. In fact, I
suspect if you do it with the wheels on the ground, you could put a
spring compressor on the rear wheel on that side, and just twist off
the bolt holding the bush in place. Opening the compressor up/raising
the rear of the car, you could then slip this bushing out and replace
it. You’d then have to tighten up the compressor (or get a friend or
two to sit on the rear fender) to bring the car down and tighten up
the big bolt that goes through the bushing. As I said, I suspect you
might be able to do it this way, but I’ve never done it.
In an emergency, I’ve replaced similar deteriorated bushings with
pieces of scrap tires. In the case of this bushing, one piece on the
top and/or bottom, leaving the original in place. Most tire and
repair shops will give you a used tire, or even a piece of one, if
you ask for it (they pay to dispose of them, so you taking one saves
them money). Cut it up with a hack saw or a pair of tin snips. You
don’t need much. Cut the piece(s) to the correct size. Then drill the
hole for the mounting bolt. Lastly, cut a diagonal cut from outside
to the inside hole. Flex the piece so the cut fits onto the bolt and
then shove it in hard. I hold it with a pair of vice grips when doing
it. It’ll snap into place and stay there. If you get the center hole
diameter correct and it fully seated, it’ll be there until you get
back home and then some.
Let us know how you make out.
Craig
In reply to a message from Win sent Wed 27 Apr 2016:
Easy - it’s Midas + it’s a Jaguar = $$$$$ &:-D)–
The original message included these comments:
suspension is to drop, I cannot imagine how they justify a
$1250 quote for the work.
–
&
Paul '94 XJS 4.0 cp. (
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In reply to a message from Frederick Fischer sent Wed 27 Apr 2016:
Yep, Scrapper does that as well and it drives me nuts … At
first I thought it was something loose in the boot (maybe the
spare wheel not fully tightened up?) but after checking and
re-arranging things in there several times, the disturbing
noise continued unabated …–
The original message included these comments:
My 1995 Vanden Plas has a bad clunk when going over bumps in
the right rear area. I’m in Annapolis, 600 miles from home.
–
& Paul '94 XJS 4.0 cp. (
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In reply to a message from nododgehere sent Wed 27 Apr 2016:
You beat me to it, I was about to post the same URL. Jim’s
website is a great resource and along with Simon’s Jags on
Gas site they cover virtually all the issues for the X300 X308!–
The original message included these comments:
Jaguar XJ6 Rear Suspension and Rear Damper replacement
Thank be for Mr Butterworth.
–
Neil 1997 3.2 http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1242166704
MALDON, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Neil Maldon sent Thu 28 Apr 2016:
Thanks to all for your replies. From what I’ve learned/heard,
I’m going to replace the upper rear shock bushings and see if
that cures the clunking. It may still be the subframe bushing,
I don’t know. I will include a link below to a video shot at a
shop about an hour from my home (I’m back in Michigan). It
shows a guy replacing the upper rear shock bushings in
something less than a half hour. Of course he’s a pro, has a
hoist and air tools but still it’s very impressive. I’m going
to call them tomorrow and have them take a look at my car. I
have more money than time at the moment so…
I’ll let you all know if that cures the clunk or not and how
it goes. Or I may tackle it myself, depending on what they
quote me. Just because I saw the guy do it in 20 minutes
doesn’t mean that’s all the labor they’re going to charge me!
By the way, I did another trip from Michigan to Annapolis,
Maryland and back in my girlfriend’s Mini, after having done it
in the Jag. Holy crap, what misery! Mini’s are fun around
town. Not so much on an 8-hour high-speed road trip. Like
riding around in a giant washing machine…whereas the Jag is
like a night at the opera…we’re all spoiled. I’ll get back
to you about the clunk solution.
1990 XJS convertible, 1995 Vanden Plas
Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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In reply to a message from Frederick Fischer sent Sun 8 May 2016:
Clunk solved!!! And new favorite indie garage in Lansing,
Michigan!! I had a frighteningly loud clunk in the right-rear
of my 1995 Vanden Plas. After going to FIVE other shops and
doing my research, I took the car to a tiny, funky little
independent shop about 50 minutes from my home in S.E.
Michigan, based mostly on a video they had posted about
changing the upper shock bushings.
First the mechanic re-worked my exhaust system, which was a
mess, leaking and either had missing hangars or was not engaged
in the hangars. Much quieter and will probably last longer but
was not the source of the clunk.
I ordered upper bushings and the upper spring seat, on the
advice of my parts guy at Welsh Jaguar in Ohio and took the car
back to the shop. Out came the old bushings, which were
collapsed and worn out, and in went the new ones. I should
have photographed the old parts…anyway, that cured it.
The ‘‘book’’ time is 2.5 hours for the job but this shop only
charges $80 an hour. The labor was $170, I think. Worth it to
not wreck my hands fighting with it. There is a link to the
video showing the shortcut way to do this job in my previous
post. No spring compressor, only partially dropping the
subframe.
Also recommend this shop for Jag owners. Very experienced,
down-to-earth guys that eat, sleep and breath cars, with lots
of Jag experience. And a low shop rate. Am I allowed to post
the name/address of the shop on here? Dunno, but it’s in the
video. Thanks everyone for your help.–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from Neil Maldon sent Thu 28 Apr 2016:
Thanks to all for your replies. From what I’ve learned/heard,
I’m going to replace the upper rear shock bushings and see if
that cures the clunking. It may still be the subframe bushing,
I don’t know. I will include a link below to a video shot at a
shop about an hour from my home (I’m back in Michigan). It
shows a guy replacing the upper rear shock bushings in
something less than a half hour. Of course he’s a pro, has a
hoist and air tools but still it’s very impressive. I’m going
to call them tomorrow and have them take a look at my car. I
have more money than time at the moment so…
–
1990 XJS convertible, 1995 Vanden Plas
Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from Frederick Fischer sent Fri 13 May 2016:
Of course you can mention shops by name. You just can’t
say stuff that could make them even think about suing for
defamation. It wouldn’t even be a question of whether they
were right or wrong - Jag-Lovers Admins don’t even want to
think about a court case, never mind defend a frivolous
suit.
Pete–
66 ‘UberLynx’ D, 70 FHC, 79 S2 XJ12L, 97 XJ6L
Gaithersburg, Maryland, United States
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Good stuff. Now to find the shock bushings and spacers.
I just ordered 2 sets of upper and lower damper isolators from the dealer yesterday.
(I get ‘jobber-price’ on dealer parts)
The spring isolators are ‘pricey’ from the dealer but can be had ‘aftermarket’.
Upper damper isolators = CAC949350 ($12ish each)
Lower (larger) damper isolators = CAC949465 ($20ish each)
Spring isolator = MMD3565AA
I buy the KYB spring isolators with shipping for about $70-$80 /Pair
MSRP is likely higher if you don’t get the wholesale rate. (shop rate)
Thanks.
I just bought new KYB shocks, and as far as I know they come with the isolators. That should solve the problem. I will know soon, they should arrive this week or next.
Replace the spring isolators at the same time.
No point in removing all those parts again to fit new ones later on.
I just bought an XKR that the Previous Owner replaced the dampers but re-used the spring isolators. Now I have got to disassemble it all the fit new ones.
They ‘crumble’ at the same rate as the damper isolators!
Where do you source them from?
This lot cost me about $250. I got mine via the Daimler Lanchester Spares Club, but David Manners, SNGB etc all have them. No big drama to change out, but I had access to my neighbour’s hoist which helped.
Clunk went from a slighly annoying rattle to hard out clanking within about 30 miles. Top bush had totally disintegrated and metal on metal was the result. The larger cushions were still relatively sound, but, like Motorcarman says, no point saving a few pennies now to spend some dollars later to do what you should have done first time around.
When looking for parts I see several parts that go on top and under coil springs. Are some more wearing than others? Trying to figure out what to part numbers order before taking apart. Thanks
Hi Kosmo,
The parts I replaced are;
MMD3565AA
CAC949465
CCC7350
CAC949350
CCC6782.
This was on an X100 XK8; I’m not sure if the parts are the same as the X300, but I suspect they are. The lower shock bush may be OK, but on mine the seals had disintegtated, so it was worth replacing them while the whole thing was apart.
Edit, I’ve just looked on SNGB site, and the part numbers for X300 are the same as X100.
Thanks I will check and compare. I looked at a few schematics with the parts labelled, but they are not that easy to find in stock. Most places only have one of the spring seats or seat bushings.
I ordered new shocks, so I assume (for now) that means the lower shock bushing is included as well as the upper shock bushings which I think are very bad of mine which is why I ordered new shocks. I could not find the bushings individually
Rock Auto has the KYB SM5358.