Hi everybody,
I have been lurking on this list for just over a year and finally took
the plunge in July by
buying a late 95 BRG 3.2 (I’m told its a 96 model). So far I’ve
travelled over 7000 km
without any problems except for a couple of bulbs. So firstly, many
thanks to all those
who have contributed to this list over the last year. The information I
collected really
helped when checking out the car at the dealer’s. Of course, the exhaust
manifolds
were cracked, but at least I was expecting that However, everything
else appears
in excellent condition despite the car not having a service history. It
had 120,000 km
on the clock. Whilst back in the UK, on holiday, I was able to stock up
on some
consumables as well as a pair of new exhaust manifolds and associated
bits (spare
studs and gaskets). I have always done all my own servicing and repairs
as that’s what
makes owning a car like the Jaguar affordable for me.
Over the last few weeks I’ve collected a number of questions which I
hope this list can
answer, so here goes:
When moving the light switch to park, the ikon opposite lights up.
When moving the
switch further to main, this ikon remains stays lit but the lower
ikon does not
light up. The pictures in the owner’s handbook suggests otherwise.
What is the
correct behaviour?
When braking, just at the moment the car stops and the front dives a
little, there is
a creaking sound. Is this due to worn suspension bushes or the
so-called ‘isolators’
on top of the shock absorbers?
Previous posts suggest that there is a lamp under the ski-slope that
lights up the gear
shift. I only have the red lights coming on as the gear stick is
moved from park to
reverse to neutral to drive etc. Am I right in thinking the ‘J’
shaped line should also
be lit up?
I have heard that there is a modification kit for the timing chain
tensioners. Anyone
know more about this including cost?
The Jaguar service manual is the first I’ve seen in which the torque
wrench settings
are given with a range of values (all my previous cars had manuals
with specific values).
When tightening up should I go for a low, mid or upper value in this
range?
The two studs that hold the carpet in place in front of the fuel tank
could not be pushed
into their receptacles properly. I had to punch two new holes some
3/4" below the
existing holes to get a proper alignment. Anyone else had similar
problems?
On both the remotes, I could not lock the car. On closer inspection,
I found that the
small micro-switches under the rubber buttons were falling apart. I
was able to repair
both so that they now work. However, I would like to replace the
switches with new
ones that I’ve found in a catalogue. Anyone know how the remotes
come apart without
breaking any possible tabs? It is just a matter of prising the two
halves apart?
I also have a question on replacing the exhaust manifolds which I’ll
post separately.
When moving the light switch to park, the ikon opposite lights up.
When moving the
switch further to main, this ikon remains stays lit but the lower
ikon does not
light up. The pictures in the owner’s handbook suggests
otherwise.
What is the
correct behaviour?
Not sure, but mine does the same as yours…
When braking, just at the moment the car stops and the
front dives a
little, there is
a creaking sound. Is this due to worn suspension bushes or the
so-called ‘isolators’
on top of the shock absorbers?
Sounds like bushes - the isolators/bushes on the shocks normally clunk!
Previous posts suggest that there is a lamp under the
ski-slope that
lights up the gear
shift. I only have the red lights coming on as the gear stick is
moved from park to
reverse to neutral to drive etc. Am I right in thinking the ‘J’
shaped line should also
be lit up?
Yes, you need to remove the ski-slope to get at the bulb.
I have heard that there is a modification kit for the timing chain
tensioners. Anyone
know more about this including cost?
Sorry…
The Jaguar service manual is the first I’ve seen in which
the torque
wrench settings
are given with a range of values (all my previous cars
had manuals
with specific values).
When tightening up should I go for a low, mid or upper
value in this
range?
Go for a mid, so if your wrench isn’t calibrated spot on you will still be
within range
The two studs that hold the carpet in place in front of
the fuel tank
could not be pushed
into their receptacles properly. I had to punch two new
holes some
3/4" below the
existing holes to get a proper alignment. Anyone else had similar
problems?
Not me.
On both the remotes, I could not lock the car. On closer
inspection,
I found that the
small micro-switches under the rubber buttons were
falling apart. I
was able to repair
both so that they now work. However, I would like to replace the
switches with new
ones that I’ve found in a catalogue. Anyone know how the remotes
come apart without
breaking any possible tabs? It is just a matter of
prising the two
halves apart?
In reply to a message from Stow Paul sent Wed 18 Sep 2002:
I have not yet gotten the courage to remove the sli slope since I
have generally no luck working with the various plastic clips and
joiners that Jag uses having broken my fair share of them. I am
afraid I will crack the wood. However, I most likely will do this
in the near future as I would like to attempt the clock repair and
replace a few light bulbs.
With regard to the light for the gear indicator, is it possible to
remove only the transmission selector surround without removing the
wood panel? According to the directions I have seen on this site
for removing the ski-slope, this part can be released by squeezing
gently on the sides to release clip fittings. Is the bulb
accessible through this opening?–
The original message included these comments:
Previous posts suggest that there is a lamp under the
ski-slope that
lights up the gear
shift. I only have the red lights coming on as the gear stick is
moved from park to
reverse to neutral to drive etc. Am I right in thinking the ‘J’
shaped line should also
be lit up?
Yes, you need to remove the ski-slope to get at the bulb.
In reply to a message from Mick sent Fri 20 Sep 2002:
Re :-
''With regard to the light for the gear indicator, is it possible
to
remove only the transmission selector surround without removing
the
wood panel? According to the directions I have seen on this site
for removing the ski-slope, this part can be released by
squeezing
gently on the sides to release clip fittings. Is the bulb
accessible through this opening? ‘’
Hi Mick,
In one word NO
You can only remove the suround trim which Includes the
Normal/Sport Switch
You have to remove the ‘’ ski Slope to gain access
Its quite easy when you get use to It,
Remove the ask tray, 2 x screws, Remove the Ski rear fixings ( 2 x
upside down wing nuts,
Remove the gear leaver suround trim by squeezing
gently on the sides to release clip fittings
Then the Ski slope life out :-))
2 mins :-))
Refit in reverse order
Derek 95 XJR–
The original message included these comments:
With regard to the light for the gear indicator, is it possible to
remove only the transmission selector surround without removing the
wood panel? According to the directions I have seen on this site
for removing the ski-slope, this part can be released by squeezing
gently on the sides to release clip fittings. Is the bulb
accessible through this opening?
In reply to a message from Chris Copplestone sent Wed 18 Sep 2002:
In regards to your question #3 about the light in the ‘‘J shifter’’,
all the bulbs for the trans selector are soldered onto a circuit
board in the selector assembly. To my knowledge, it is Not Possible
to merely replace any of these bulbs in any simple way (twist
in/out). I can send some pics if anyone (Pascal ?) wants to post
them.
When you perform the clock fix, be extremely careful NOT to bump
the ribbon cable on the clock ! it is held onto the pins by
adhesive and if you bump it off, you’ll be looking for a new clock
because you’ll Never get it to stick down on all the pins again.
I’d recommend replacing all the bulbs in the clock assembly while
you’re in there and be done with it; the bulbs here are a Dealer
item between $8 and $11 per bulb and you’ll need to tell the parts
man if you need blue or green. One more thing - don’t try to get
uniform lighting (same brightness) on the temperature display,
clock and radio - all 3 have different lighting levels and you’ll
spend well over $100 replacing all the bulbs (radio needs to go to
a radio shop) to find out it didn’t make a difference !–
PaulK
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
the ski-slope wood is pretty durable, though I share your feelings on
plastic clips!! You need to remove the ski-slope for the transmission
lights, but it’s not hard ( second time! ), honest.
In reply to a message from Stow Paul sent Wed 18 Sep 2002:
I have not yet gotten the courage to remove the sli slope since I
have generally no luck working with the various plastic clips and
joiners that Jag uses having broken my fair share of them. I am
afraid I will crack the wood. However, I most likely will do this
in the near future as I would like to attempt the clock repair and
replace a few light bulbs.
With regard to the light for the gear indicator, is it possible to
remove only the transmission selector surround without removing the
wood panel? According to the directions I have seen on this site
for removing the ski-slope, this part can be released by squeezing
gently on the sides to release clip fittings. Is the bulb
accessible through this opening?
However, everything