[X300] won't crank

Hello all,

I bought a used 1995 Jaguar X300 about 2 Months ago. Every time I started back then I would hear a loud noise one or two seconds after the car started, so I decided to take it home and replace the starter. I started with replacing the Oxygen sensors, oil change, replacing coolant, spark plugs, new fuel injectors…

I didn’t start the car for about one month, then about 3 weeks ago when I tried to start it, but nothing happened. I thought maybe the starter died completely and I noticed that the battery was fully discharged, so I removed the battery, charged it and replaced the starter. Today I put the battery back in and when I opened the door the alarm went on and it didn’t respond to my second key fob. So I quickly disconnected the battery, went to get my other key and disabled the alarm after connecting the battery. When I tried to start, still nothing happened.

When I turn the ignition on all lights go on and go off, except the red oil lamp and when I turn to start the SRS Airbag light goes on as long as I turn the key to start.

I already replaced the relay I think is the starter relay with a different one, that didn’t help :frowning:

I read online that if the check engine light goes off before you try to start it may be the immobiliser (I live in germany and have a european Jaguar, probably fitted with an immobiliser).

Update: I also noticed that the battery (maybe volt) dash only goes up to like a few stripes below half. When it started before it always went up a little above half. Could that be a problem with the battery?

Did anyone have the same problems? Can anyone tell me how to jump start the starter? I thought about trying that next.

Thanks for your help.

Regards from Germany,
Christian

The battery has to be FULLY charged to start. If it’s low then the immobiliser will not turn off (happened to me). The fact you say you have charged it is not enough, if the gauge says otherwise. Get the battery charged and if it will not, then you need a new one.

The security module does not like the battery going flat. If the check engine light goes off before the engine is running, the security module has lost the transponder code and needs reprogramming. Or, if you are unlucky as I was, needs replacing.
This is my story: 1996 x300 immobiliser

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I tried again today with a different battery, the battery gauge goes to the correct position now, but it’s still not working. I can turn on the AC, the lights, everything, but as soon as I try to start the radio, the AC, everything I turned on is turned off and the car still won’t start. I also don’t hear a relay clicking or any noises apart from the key being turned.
Could it be that I have a electrical short somewhere in the starter system and that’s why the lights and everything turn off?

That sounds more like you have a bad conection somewhere. Are you able to measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter while somebody turns the key? If the battery stays at 12V you need to check where you have the voltage drop. Possibly the ground connection from the battery to the chassis?

Thanks for the advice Harald. I checked the battery today. The battery shows 12,84V before start and about 12,4V when I try to start. I think the battery connection is ok. I found a key with matching security module in UK. I think I will order it and check if that helps

G’day Christian,

A place to look at is the security of all the connections in the lead from the battery to the starter.

I had a similar problem to you and the battery lead having loose connections was the problem.

Starting at the battery check the battery post and then open up the fusebox there and ensure everything in it is clean and tight.

The next connection is under the rear passenger seat on the RHS, there is another fusebox with two heavy duty fuses there, they need to be clean and tight.

Now in the RHS front footwell close to the transmission tunnel is a connector which passes through the firewall, it also needs to be clean and tight.

The connector on the starter itself should also be clean and tight as should the connector on the alternator.

My no crank problem and was cured after I checked the battery lead security as was poor charging of the battery, I was losing nearly three volts between the alternator and the battery.

Cheers,
Jeff.