[x300] X300 Immobiliser --- engine won't crank (intermittent)

A long winded topic unfortunately.
I’ve looked at nearly all the forum topics on this particular
problem but can’t find a solution which fits my problem. Right here
goes, about 3 months ago I noticed that my 1995 XJR would not
crank/start. After a few tries, it suddenly burst into life and all
was fine. Gradually since then the number of ‘‘no cranks’’ has really
tried my patience but the pint that it seems to be totally
immobilised now. I then noticed something about the Check Engine
MIL light behaviour in that upon turning on the ignition (but not
trying to start it), the MIL would light along with all the others
during a lamp test period. But then it would go out with the rest
and of course it would not crank. I know the MIL should stay on to
allow the cranking/starting to happen because the odd time it does
start, this is how the MIL operates. So I started to look into it
further.

  1. The key fob batteries were renewed. I know this has no effect on
    immolisher but had to start at the cheapest. The lock/unlock works
    fine all the time anyway.
  2. I replaced the Exciter coil with a new one (�20) but no joy.
  3. Renewed CPS (Crank Positon Sensor) in a vain hope but no joy.
  4. Battery is a new 90A/Hr and fully charged but that makes no
    difference.
  5. Tried all spare keys c/w chips, even taped one tight to the
    Excitor coil but no joy.
  6. Park/Neutral position test (P & N lights are on) but no joy.
  7. Continuity tested the limit switch unit at the end of the
    ignition barrell (easy the remove) and they all operate fine.
  8. Locked the car with either the key or fob (with drivers window
    open) and then put the key into ignition switch. The alarm sounded
    immediately (as designed) but kept going even when I went to the On
    position. This seems to indicate that car is still ‘‘immobilised’’ as
    per the manual.

Note: the Security CM + ignition switch + door locks + keys were
all renewed + reprogramming about a year ago following an attempted
breakin (insurance claim) but they have worked perfectly since
then. At least up to 3 months ago that is. I wonder can the
security program be starting to act up but then again why does it
allow starting now and again?. It must recognise the key chip when
it starts, right?. Baffled.

Could the key reader under the dash be the problem as I don’t
think that was renewed previously?. I am lead to believe that these
are extremely voltage sensitive (must check voltage at this unit).

I bet that if I go out now the bloody thing will start, I’ll get
to my destination and it won’t crank/start again until about 15-
30minutes of turning the key on/off repeatedly.

Can anyone shed light on the problem and tell where to go from
here before forking out huge bucks for the obvious.

Cheers Martino–
martin mcgovern
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Tue 29 Sep 2009:

Martino - I’m sure at least a few of us will be sharing your
pain and bafflement on this, particularly Steve Sparrow (of
‘Jags on Gas’ fame). You’ve probably come across his recent
thread ‘[x300] Immobilised X300?’ in the archives and I
suspect that that thread is probably most relevant to your
problem.

You’re almost certainly on the right track in your
observation of the behaviour of the MIL lamp. Maybe look
again closely at Steve’s thread. The real action starts
around 3/4 of the way through, so look particularly at his
entry dated ‘Sat 12 Sep 2009 05:24:33 -0700 (PDT)’, where
you’ll see how he cured his problem, which turned out to be
the key. You may want to read back a little way from that
point to see some of the other things he tried.

Your problem may NOT be the key(s) but it’s evidently
something along that chain of key → exciter → modules
(even though some of them are relatively new). Of course, it
could be the wiring between them… What makes it more
challenging is that yours is intermittent. And, despite the
security module being new, I certainly wouldn’t rule out its
being intermittently faulty - stranger things have happened!

Ideally you’d have a set of other parts to substitue in the
chain to try and determine where the fault is. I don’t
suppose there’s any chance you’ve still got the old set?
Presumably it still worked, even though it was all changed
for security reasons.

Please keep us posted with your progress. I’m sure that
someone or something on this forum will be able to lead you
to the solution.

Good luck with this!

Cheers,
Gerald.–
The original message included these comments:

and of course it would not crank. I know the MIL should stay on to
allow the cranking/starting to happen because the odd time it does
start, this is how the MIL operates. So I started to look into it
further.
Note: the Security CM + ignition switch + door locks + keys were
all renewed + reprogramming about a year ago following an attempted
breakin (insurance claim) but they have worked perfectly since
then. At least up to 3 months ago that is. I wonder can the
security program be starting to act up but then again why does it
allow starting now and again?. It must recognise the key chip when
it starts, right?. Baffled.


1996 X300 4.0
Suffolk, England, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from edenyard sent Wed 30 Sep 2009:

Gerald,

You were quicker than me! I’m a little under pressure this week!

Martino,

I am most certainly happy to help with this, Gerald is right to
lead you to my recent thread as it will establish some things. I
don’t have much time right now and there is more to that story
(like how I finally fixed the problem Monday this week) but for now
I’ll just repeat or establish some useful facts;

The Key fob / Alarm system is quite a seperate thing to the
immobiliser, although both are linked later on it is clear that the
chip-in-key system and the key fob/alarm setting must be treated as
seperate systems doing different things.

IF…Your Check Engine lamp goes out after the bulb test you
correctly observed, the vehicle is definately immobilsed by starter
inhibition for whatever reason (and this has nothing to do with the
alarm or fob, at least at this level).

I’ll be back when I get some time although what I have to add will
probably be tacked on the end of my thread for completeness and
continuity. I will let you know.

Regards to all

Steve–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Martino sent Tue 29 Sep 2009:


Jags on gas
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Tue 29 Sep 2009:

Martino,

Some questions for you that I forgot to ask in my haste…

How do you normally lock/unlock you car? Fob or Key?

Do you notice a differece between using one or the other, have you
tried both ways and observed the results? Are they different in any
way?

Regards

Steve–
Jags on gas
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In reply to a message from Jags on gas sent Wed 30 Sep 2009:

[x300] X300 Immobiliser — engine won’t crank (intermittent)

Hi Steve & Gerard,
All help very much appreciated.
Btw, the car is an Irish car so presumably set up as in the UK.

To answer your questions and some more test’s I plan to do:-

A) I normally use the fob to lock, then deadlock and then open
again.

Note, I’ve been told that if one use’s the key last thing at
night to lock it, but then uses the fob the next morning to open
it, the alarm will start up. And visa versa. One must lock, then
unlock using either the key (if used to lock) or the fob (if it was
used to lock).

B) Since my problem arose, I’ve tried numerous combinations of
using the bloody key and fob. But the starting has a mind of it’s
own.

Proposed tests:-

  1. Check voltage at key reader module (+ supply). Believe it’s
    voltage sensitive.
  2. Disconnect battery and pull off connection blocks to check
    condition of connections to the ECU, BPM, SLCM & Key reader module.
  3. Check ‘‘Permission to Crank’’ output at the ECU terminal but not
    sure what that should be showing on my multimeter (a 12v + signal
    or a 0V - ground signal when both not allowing crank and when
    allowing crank).
  4. Check Permission to Crank’’ input to the BPM (same doubt about
    signal as ECU output).
  5. Check ‘‘Fueling Inhibit’’ output at the SLCM but again don’t know
    what the should be showing on my multimeter (a + or - voltage or a
    digital/data signal).
  6. Tested old excitor coil resistance. Measured 33.3ohms (spec says
    33.4ohms), so replacing it with a new one was a waste of money and
    time. Test done.
  7. Disconnect new excitor coil, reconnect old one loosely (not on
    the ignistion switch barrel) but with a key taped inside the coil
    with the key chip as close to the coil as possible.
  8. From another thread, key in door and lock/unlock 3 times in
    rapid suggestion, then key in ignition and turn on/off 3 times
    rapidly.
  9. Check wiring continuity throughout.
  10. Finally, using some wiring mod’s to bypass the fuel pump relay
    & starter relay control to get them operating indepentantly of the
    ECU and try my luck then. Already tried the starter bypass and that
    proved that the starter works perfectly well.

Not sure if immobilisation only affects fuel pump and starter
relay. Does it prevent ignition coils and others sensors from
working?.

If all fails will have to pay dealer to pick up the car, take it
to their garage and have the security & keys re-programmed again to
see if thats the problem. Don’t want to think of how much that will
cost.

Well thats it until I try the above but any other idea’s would be
appreciated.

Cheers Martino–
The original message included these comments:

How do you normally lock/unlock you car? Fob or Key?


martin mcgovern
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Tue 29 Sep 2009:

You’ve probably already tried it, and it’s probably not
going to help because given the check engine light info it
sounds like you have an immobilizer problem. But, it’s a
free check and it only takes seconds, so just to make sure
have you checked the starter relays? Not just the blue one
in the fuse box under the hood, but also the little black
one in front of the breather box? Those little buggers have
cost more that one owner thousands to try to track down. If
that one little relay gets sticky, then it starts to act
just the same way: everything seems to be fine, but when you
turn the key, nothing happens.

Good luck.–
'96, XJ6, VP, 4.0, 113,000 miles and counting.
Dallas, Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from edenyard sent Wed 30 Sep 2009:

Hi Guys,

I’m having a similar problem with my 97 X300.

The fob would not work to unlock the car this morning so I
used the key…

Once I got into the car it started first flick of the key,
but coming back from work was a different story. I still
could not unlock using the fob, so used the key in the
drivers door to open the car and proceeded to disarm the
alarm by turning the key in the column. The alarm carried on
chirping and the car refused to start. I noticed an orange
lamp on the dash that looks like a cirle with a square on
top of it with a cross over the top of it.

After flicking the key back and forth a few times I got the
‘chirp chirp’ disarm sound from the horn and was able to
start the car. At this point I was all for ditching the
thing at work and catching the bus before I managed to get
it to start!

I’ll continue to look for whats causing this on my Jag too,
its most annoying!–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Martino sent Tue 29 Sep 2009:


I am what I am
Sheffield, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Panderson sent Wed 30 Sep 2009:

OK guys,

I will stick to what I have found as the discussion is widening.
There is nothing wrong with that and I’m really pleased to help
others by writing all I found although I’ll have to focus on just
this one (Martino’s) car for now, if only to move forward.
Hopefully, what we discuss and learn during this process will
benefit all and every problem will be solved.

Back to Martino’s car- If the Check Engine light (CE) is going out
after the ign. is turned on but not cranked (or will not crank)
every other possible cause can be discounted as it is immobilised.
That is the only reason it will not crank. We just have to work out
why.

Now, since I wrote about this, and in the curiously conicidental
way that life has sometimes, I looked at a car for someone with a
related but slightly different problem. This chap is using his key
(only) to lock and unlock his X300 because he has the dreaaded seat
memory problem (another can of words). The seat doesn’t act stupid
if he uses the key to lock/unlock the car but here’s the
interesting part…On first turn of the key in the ign., the CE
light goes out and the engine will not crank…If the ign. is then
turned off and then on again, the CE light stays on and the engine
will crank. Now, even more intersting…If he uses the fob and puts
up with the seat gymnasitcs, the engine will crank first time.

It seems that fob unlocking has a role to play in the initial de-
immobilisation (if that is a word!) process which has to be
overcome by key twiddling (say the two attempts) if you don’t use
the fob.

Looking at the reverse, I know for certain that if one removes the
Security module (SM) under the rear wing, the central locking and
boot locking will not work, so the SM has more to do than just save
and interrogate/recognise/reject the chip-in-key code. In the light
of this, it seems even more likely that fob use is the first stage
of de-immobilisation, although it is not impossbile to start a car
when the fob has not been used. (It would have to be possible as
the fob batteries can go flat).

Confused? You will be! See the next exciting episode of Sloap, the
continuing story of one man’s battle to de-immobilise a car that
has no right not to let him drive it…(I know, another double
negative!)

Now I’m going off to finish the thread from a few weeks ago.

Regards

Steve–
Jags on gas
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In reply to a message from Jags on gas sent Wed 30 Sep 2009:

Addendum -

My thread on the immobilised X300 problem and eventual solution
(and possibly the cause) is now complete. I have included another
solution for people that are not as lucky as I was in re-
registering the key to the SM.

Good Luck all!

Steve–
Jags on gas
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In reply to a message from Jags on gas sent Wed 30 Sep 2009:

Hi all, X300 still immobilised after carrying out the following
tests:-

  1. Measured battery voltage = 12.3V
  2. Measured voltage at excitor coil reader module (under steering
    column) @ 12.3V, so no voltage drop or bad connections along the
    wiring from fuse F4 in boot/trunk fusebox to under the dash.
    3)New Crankshaft Position Sensor installed as a precaution or in a
    vain hope that this was faulty (a known problem with X300’s).
    4)Fuel pump definitely not operating when ignition is on. This can
    only be the immobiliser preventing this operating as the pump works
    fine when I supplied a separate 12v + to it (bypassed relay).
  3. Bypassed starter motor relay and starter working just fine.
    Again an indication that the immobiliser is preventing cranking.
  4. While fuel pump and starter relays were bypassed and working
    independantly from the ignition, turned key ignition on and tried
    to start engine. Engine cranked, fuel was delivered but no start.
    Therefore it seems other functions are affected by the immobiliser
    e.g. fuel injectors, HT coils etc and not just fueling and cranking.
  5. Tried the numerous key/fob operation combinations seen on the
    threads.

Conclusion is that my car is now permanently immobilised, not just
intermittently, by a faulty SLCM (Security & Locking Control
Module) and/or Key chip reader and/or Security software program
corruption.

So what next?. I’ll try to purchase second hand but known to work
SLCM and associated Key chip reader and keys/fob/ingnition barrel
from a well known and trusted supplier in the UK.

If that does not cure the problem, I’ll burn the bloody thing as
I hate looking at a perfectly good car in my driveway which does
not start. And I don’t want to be screwed by a Jag dealer either.

Cheers (Slainte as they say here in Ireland)
Martino–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Jags on gas sent Wed 30 Sep 2009:


martin mcgovern
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Fri 2 Oct 2009:

Martin,

Stick with it, you’ll get there and success will be all the sweeter
for the chase…

I wonder if you have read my thread or perhaps missed my findings
being different to yours - You’ll notice that I found only the
starter circuit being disabled with the check engine light out,
although the fuel pump still ran (to time out, it is supposed to
stop if the engine does not start within 5 secs or so) and I still
had 12V at the ign. coils. If your car isn’t in the same condition,
maybe it is not only immobilised, but has another problem in tandem?

Good Luck!

Steve–
Jags on gas
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Fri 2 Oct 2009:

Hi Guys,

I little more background on my immobilisation problems.

I changed batteries in my keyfob so now I can unlock and
disarm the alarm.

However when I put the key in and turn to ‘Ignition on’
after the lamp check, sometimes the MIL light does not stay
on, sometimes it does.

After a few key flicks back & forth eventually it will let
me start the car and everything is fine.

The times when it won’t allow me to start, the ‘SRS airbag’
warning lamp shows when the key is turned to ‘Start’

I suspect the key exicter module, as I’ve previously had
issues disarming the alarm using the key so I’ve ordered a
second-hand one to replace this weekend.

I’d be interested to hear anyone elses views on this
problem, just to make sure i’m on the right track. :slight_smile:

Andy.–
I am what I am
Sheffield, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Panderson sent Fri 2 Oct 2009:

Hi Steve & Andy,

To Steve,
I have read your threads I’m sure but we have similar if not
slightly different problems. Anyway to your points,

  1. if you look at the wiring diagram you’ll see that the HT coils
    get common 12V + supply from the one of the Blue Positive Active
    Relays which energise when the ignition switch is in the ON
    position, irrespective of the car’s immobilised stated. It’s the
    negative (-) of each of the HT coils which is triggered by the ECU,
    so maybe these triggered negatives are inhibited by the immobilised
    ECU.
  2. Did not check this 5 second time out of the fuel pump but will
    now. Not holding my breath though.

Andy,

  1. The keyfob has no influence of the immobiliser circuit of the
    car. It simply lock’s/unlocks the car as well as arming/disarming
    the alarm system.

  2. Yout MIL light is behaving exactly like mine did i.e. MIL light
    stays on, engine starts, MIL goes off, engine won’t crank/start.
    And the frequency of MIL going off before I try to start it got
    greater and greater as time went by.

  3. Not sure about the Air Bag light but it normally stays on for 5-
    7 seconds after an engine starts as it’s doing a long pre-check of
    the SRS system. It normally has no bearing on engine starting etc.

  4. Key exciter module is primarily dedicated to immobiliser
    function by reading the key chip via the excitor coil. But it also
    acts as a disarming device if one inserts the key into the ignition
    when the alarm is still armed. If everything is working correctly
    that is.

  5. So to the immobiliser operation components:-
    The excitor coil (on the ignition sw) picks up the key chip which
    inturn activates the exciter reader control module (under the dash
    beside the steering column), which inturn sends uncoded signals to
    the SLCM (in the boot/trunk), with inturn sends uncoded signals to
    the ECU (to allow fueling) and to Body Processer (to allow
    cranking). So some of the components which must be matched (for
    coded purposes) if taken from a second hand car in order for the
    system to work without the need for Security reprogramming are:
    A) Key with chip c/w ignition barrel
    B) Excitor Reader Control Module (Excitor coil does not need to
    match as it’s just picking up a signal to be decoded by the reader).
    C) The SLCM (Security & Locking Control Module) in the boot.

    One does not need the ECU or Body Processor at this stage to be
    changed.

    Btw, when you say ‘‘disarming witrh the key’’ was it in the door
    or ignition switch?.

    When I get my 2nd hand but matched parts, hopefully I’ll be able
    to close this saga.

Again many thanks for staying with me on this.
MartinoFrom my experience and rapidly gaining knowledge of X300 systems:-


The original message included these comments:

I little more background on my immobilisation problems.


martin mcgovern
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Fri 2 Oct 2009:

Oops, sorry guys but made a slight typo in previous reply. In the
immobiliser operation description just after item # 5), the signals
between the Exciter reader module and the SLCM should be ‘‘coded’’
and not ‘‘uncoded’’. This is an important clarification. Must be more
carefull on such point’s.

Cheers
Martin–
The original message included these comments:

Hi Steve & Andy,


martin mcgovern
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Fri 2 Oct 2009:

Hi Martino,

Sounds like you’ve had a nightmare with this problem!
I was referring to disarming the alarm by turning the key in
the ignition barrel. If you unlock the car without using the
keyfob, but use the key in the drivers door. The alarm
starts to chirp, usually inserting the key and turning to
the first position disarms the alarm, recently this has not
been the case which is why I believe there is a problem with
reading the key transponder…

I was lucky enough to get two keys and two working
transponders with my car, both keys have the same problem
when trying to start/disarm the alarm using the ignition barrel.

Andy.–
The original message included these comments:

Btw, when you say ‘‘disarming witrh the key’’ was it in the door
or ignition switch?.


I am what I am
Sheffield, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Tue 29 Sep 2009:

Hi Martino,
I had similar problem to yours ie NO CRANK
The solution was in one of the multipin connectors near to
the wash bottle filler neck. A pin had corroded inside the
plug body I identified the wire and soldered a piece of wire
in and the car burst into life at the first attempt.
Good luck J.Mc–
b&qmagoo
warrington, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Martino sent Fri 2 Oct 2009:

Martin,

Yes, the coils are earthed and ‘fired’ by the negative through the
crank sensor signal by the ECU, as I said in my thread. What cannot
be determined easily is if the ECU has been prevented from this
action by the SM in an immobilised state or not, as it won’t crank.
Also note that the petrol injectors are fired using precisely the
same method.

In situations like these, and espacially without a wiring diagram
(I do not have one) it is difficilt to avoid making assumptions
although I recommend that you take another look at this one;

‘The keyfob has no influence of the immobiliser circuit of the
car. It simply lock’s/unlocks the car as well as arming/disarming
the alarm system.’

I think that this may not be accurate for two reasons;

  1. If the SM is removed, Central Locking is inoperative. Keyfob
    operation is therefore dependant on the SM and the SM would ‘know’
    if a registered fob has been used.

  2. I have just looked at a car (described in the latter part of my
    thread) which will start first time if the fob is used, but not if
    the key is used. The Check engine light goes out in this case, the
    missing link being the non-use of the fob.

No. 2 may be a Red Herring of some kind but No1 is a definate,
showing that the two systems are linked in some way, if only in one
direction.

Actually I wonder if the SM is of similar kind to the ones fitted
to LR Discovery models, giving heaps of problems. These units are
infamous and tagged ‘Spider’ because they have 8 ‘legs’,
independently arming/disarming functions such as fuel supply,
sparks etc. They are well know for one ‘leg’ going bad whist the
others work fine. This could account for the difference in
immobiliser problems. If we all had time to break this system down
I think we’d find that adding 5V to the right location in the ECU
would negate the immobliser system for good, but if that were so I
suppose we’d risk being accused of showing the less than honest how
to steal cars, and keep it to ourselves…

Good Luck with it…

Steve–
Jags on gas
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In reply to a message from Jags on gas sent Sun 4 Oct 2009:

A little more info on my particular problem…

I was going to change the key exciter unit this weekend, but
before doing that I decided to experiment with the starting
problem.

Eventually I found a starting sequence that works for my car.

Unlock using the fob, insert key into ignition and turn to
first position. Wait a few seconds (put seatbelt on etc…)
then turn to ignition on.

Every time I have started the car using this procedure, it
starts first time. If I try to rush the key from insert to
starting, sometimes it will start, sometimes it won’t… I
am suspecting the exciter module still but have not replaced
it as yet. If the car fails to start again, even using this
procedure I’ll change the unit anyway.

Nowt so strange as auto electrics :slight_smile:

Andy.–
The original message included these comments:

  1. I have just looked at a car (described in the latter part of my
    thread) which will start first time if the fob is used, but not if
    the key is used. The Check engine light goes out in this case, the
    missing link being the non-use of the fob.


I am what I am
Sheffield, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Panderson sent Mon 5 Oct 2009:

Hi Andy,

I think that you have hit on it, this came up in a recent
thread and I made this comment then, that if you shove the
key in and turn in one go it will beat the response between
the transponder in the key and the exciter ring and the
immobiliser is not disarmed/turned off.

This happens to me on and off with the X300 and I’ve had it
with my son’s VW Polo and also a friend’s Kia Magentis!

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1242166704--
Neil Bennett 1997 X300 3.2 Sport
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In reply to a message from Jags on gas sent Sun 4 Oct 2009:

Hi Steve,
Appreciate that it’s extremely difficult to diagnose problems
without wiring diagram’s, so what you’ve diagnosed without them is
fantastic.

Anyway, lets look at my logic after looking again at my wiring
diagrams.

  1. The key fob lock’s/unlocks the car and sets/unsets the alarm
    system but in itself it does not immobilise it. The properly coded
    key in the ignition switch turns off both the immobiliser circuit
    and the alarm system when it is turned to the II position. This is
    the test normally performed to double check the key chip.

  2. When one switches the ignition switch to the ‘‘off’’ (or I)
    position, according to Jaguar manual, the system is automatically
    put into an immobilised condition, even when the key is left in the
    ignition switch.

  3. If one switches back on to the II position, the system detects
    the key again and de-immobilises it.

  4. I believe the SM has two distinct circuits, one for the security
    & locking via door key or fob, the second is the immobiliser via
    the ignition key/chip.

  5. When I tried to start it by bypassing the fuel pump and starter
    control, the pump operated, the engine cranked but it still would
    not fire. Therefore, the immobiliser must also inhibit the HT coils
    and/or injectors from firing.

  6. The only immobiliser output signal’s from the SM are as follows:-
    A) One signal from SM to the Engine Control Module (ECM)
    called ‘‘Inhibit Fueling’’
    B) One signal from SM to the Body Processor (BPM)
    called ‘‘Security Armed/Disarmed’’

    So if one has the correct combination of a properly coded key
    (signal A above) and one successfully disarms the security system
    i.e. doors unlock and alarm not sounding (signal B above), the
    combination allows the ECU to ‘‘fuel’’ (fuel pump/injectors/HT
    coils/everything else) and the ECM in turn gives a ‘‘permit to
    crank’’ output to the BPM. And happy days, it will start.
    I know I my car satisfies signal B above but not signal A
    unfortunately. So by deduction it must be still ‘‘immobilised’’ by
    the SM. Right?.
    And I know that the key does not turn off the alarm as it should
    or used to.

    So where does this leave me and those who kindly offered
    advice?. Risk applying 5V to a system which may have coded digital
    communication signals or a grounding function, which in trun
    may ‘‘blow’’ a good ECM or BPM??. I’m not so sure, so I suppose I’ll
    have to fork out and get the Jag dealer to re-program my SM system
    immobiser.

    Whatever I do and find out what the actual problem is/was, I’ll
    post it here for all to see.

Again many thanks
Martin–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Martino sent Fri 2 Oct 2009:


martin mcgovern
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