[x300] X308 - Removing Door Trim Panel(s)

I’ve just taken delivery of the girl after having the headliner replaced.
In the desert sun, they seem to detach pretty quickly, but the new one is
up, smells a little, but nice.

Had the mech look at a problem I’m having with the door locking mechanisms.
He could not duplicate the problem, but then he’s inside, away from the heat
and direct sun…

Driver’s door – When it’s hot!!! – doesn’t always release the electric
locking when I pull on the handle. Sometimes I must pull 3-4 times - gently
of course - before it opens and the little rod pops up. Seems to work okay
in the cool of the early morning.

Drivers Pass. door – again when it’s hot – doesn’t always lock or unlock…
The little rod looks like it’s going to go down or up as the case may be,
but doesn’t. Manually, it’s quite stiff.

Both of these problems are very similar to those experienced in the old
Series 3’s, and solution was to take inner door panel off, clean and relube,
reassemble etc. Assume the same steps here. but.

I don’t have the workshop manual yet from Jag, (it’s a coming present for
me), so I’m looking for the steps and help needed to take the inner trim
panel’s off so I can clean and lube.

Any write ups or advice available?

Thanks

Ken
'99 X308 VdP
Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, Arizona

In reply to a message from Ken Davis sent Thu 15 Aug 2013:

Ok, did this recently to weld in a plate that I made for the
checkarm.

This is for front door, x308

To remove the door trim the first thing you do is remove the screw
under the hidden little cop in the inner door handle. Then the
black plastic suuround under the chrome door handle will come off
if you open the handle a bit. THis allows you to then remove the
burl veneer. Its a trick little one, you basically pull in to
wards the cabin on the B pillar side of it to lift 2 steel
fitments, and the once they are out of the female brackets in the
door you slide the whole thing towards the b pillar…

From then on its easy. Remove a large thin screw locted under
the leather arm in center of door approx., then pull all the
plastic pins around the perimeter of the door except the top
horizontal part. Basically you just tug the perimeter out. Then
lift upwards and out. Note there are speaker wirtes etc to detatch
once slight removed from the stell door frame.

When you put it back understand that the horizontal part of the
trim near the window of the door, must be ‘‘seated’’ in the groove
along the window base and there is a white plastic squarish plate
that fits into the center of the steel frame on the door for a Hook
to press into. The Hook is on the inside of the trim panel.

best regards

Peter–
Osyris
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Thanks Peter, I’ll have a ‘test’ of it this weekend. Early in the AM when
it’s cool - only in the 80’s…

Now, on to find the source of the dvd/CD for the maintenance, service etc…

Ken--------------------------------------------------

Ok, did this recently to weld in a plate that I made for the
checkarm.

This is for front door, x308

To remove the door trim the first thing you do is remove the screw
under the hidden little cop in the inner door handle. Then the
black plastic suuround under the chrome door handle will come off
if you open the handle a bit. THis allows you to then remove the
burl veneer. Its a trick little one, you basically pull in to
wards the cabin on the B pillar side of it to lift 2 steel
fitments, and the once they are out of the female brackets in the
door you slide the whole thing towards the b pillar…

From then on its easy. Remove a large thin screw locted under
the leather arm in center of door approx., then pull all the
plastic pins around the perimeter of the door except the top
horizontal part. Basically you just tug the perimeter out. Then
lift upwards and out. Note there are speaker wirtes etc to detatch
once slight removed from the stell door frame.

When you put it back understand that the horizontal part of the
trim near the window of the door, must be ‘‘seated’’ in the groove
along the window base and there is a white plastic squarish plate
that fits into the center of the steel frame on the door for a Hook
to press into. The Hook is on the inside of the trim panel.

best regards

Peter

Peter, weren’t you, or are you still, a Series 3 owner – remember your name
from the old XJ list…

The last of my 3 ‘oldies’ went to a new home about 6 months ago…

Ken

In reply to a message from Ken Davis sent Fri 16 Aug 2013:

yes I have a 1980 xj6 and a Daimler Double six V12 that I just
recently had to let go to make room for my x308. I still have the
xj6 as a daily driver. I rebuilt that engine on it personally with
flanged liners in the bores as it was cracked (hairline)… now its
got 15,000km on it estimate and maybe not even that. Ithink the
xj6 ‘‘sits’’ better on the road that the x308… infact the xj6 is
lower, thinner. Sir William Lyons did a great job, but cannot put
the x308 down in anyway.

Its like saying the Russian MIG’s fighters which have no computers
in them is a better design than the latest US Raptors which are
all fly-by-wire. THe Mig is like the XJ6, designed at its basic
core element to be sound, the later x308/Raptor although better in
many ways is only so due to the computers used in them.

best regards

Peter–
Osyris
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In reply to a message from Ken Davis sent Fri 16 Aug 2013:

BTW ken,

what do you have now?

Speaking of oldies I would love to have a MK4 some day.

I have a Mk7, but its a work in progress.

Best

Peter–
Osyris
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Just have the 99 X308 - daily driver - and my long neglected, sun damaged 73
TR6 on the side pad.

I’ve somewhat lost the urge to work on cars over the last 7 years – living
in the desert it is just way to hot to be under / in / on the TR (or the
jag), plus not having a bay / workshop available tends to mean it’s a
tougher job. Age , grandchildren care , and so forth has nothing to do with
it. Sure

Ken

In reply to a message from Ken Davis sent Sat 17 Aug 2013:

Do as I do Ken, ignore it and make it a ‘‘round tuit’’ if you
can live with it or find competent Indy specialists and pay
them to do it (i.e. spend the kids inheritance!) or if push
SUFFER and do it yourself.

PS at least it’s aTR6 not a 7. which is a blessing!–
The original message included these comments:

I’ve somewhat lost the urge to work on cars over the last 7 years – living
in the desert it is just way to hot to be under / in / on the TR (or the
jag), plus not having a bay / workshop available tends to mean it’s a
tougher job. Age , grandchildren care , and so forth has nothing to do with
it. Sure


Neil 1997 3.2S http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1242166704
MALDON, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Neil Maldon sent Sat 17 Aug 2013:

Neil,
You should know better than to use foul language like that!
How dare you post on here and mention the abhorrent Triumph
TR7?
That’s one of the worst word/number combinations in the
history of word/number combinations.
:wink:

Good luck

Dom–
The original message included these comments:

PS at least it’s aTR6 not a 7. which is a blessing!



XJ8 02 Sport …essex, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from dja sent Sat 17 Aug 2013:

I didn’t prefix the 7 with ‘‘TR’’!

I’m innocent m’lud.–
The original message included these comments:

How dare you post on here and mention the abhorrent Triumph
TR7?
That’s one of the worst word/number combinations in the
history of word/number combinations.


Neil 1997 3.2S http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1242166704
MALDON, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Ken Davis sent Thu 15 Aug 2013:

I have the same problem with my 2002 XJR. The mechanism
inside the door for the passenger door lock usually (not
always) prevents the door lock rod-thingy from going down
and locking the door. When I try to manually push it down
there is resistance from inside the door. If anyone has
any advice on how to fix it, I’d greatly appreciate it.
Maybe lubing the mechanism as the last writer said is the
answer?–
XJS Danny -1995 XJS Convertible
Snohomish, WA, United States
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In reply to a message from XJS Danny sent Sun 13 Oct 2013:

You’ve answered your own question, haven,t you!–
The original message included these comments:

Maybe lubing the mechanism as the last writer said is the
answer?


Neil 1997 3.2 http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1242166704
MALDON, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Neil Maldon sent Sun 13 Oct 2013:

I had that problem last fall on my 2002 VDP. The electric
motor that is mounted to the latch has gone bad.
Lubrication won’t help. The motor comes apart from the
latch, I got a wrecking yard used actuator, and the
problem was solved. Brandon–
Brandon St James X308 2002 VDP 4.0L
Sacramento California, United States
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In reply to a message from Reggie’s Dad sent Sun 13 Oct 2013:

That makes sense about the door latch motor. It’s odd that
sometimes it works though. Thank you for the replies!–
XJ Danny -1995 XJS Convertible/2002 XJR
Snohomish, WA, United States
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In reply to a message from XJ Danny sent Sun 13 Oct 2013:

My mechanic replaced the door lock actuator and the door lock now
works. The part was a stiff $479.53! That was a touch one to
swallow but I’m glad it’s fixed. Thanks to all for your input.–
XJ Danny -1995 XJS Convertible, 2002 XJR
Snohomish, WA, United States
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In reply to a message from XJ Danny sent Sat 26 Oct 2013:

That’s pretty pricey!
You could have sourced a s/hand one.
These don’t normally play up, it’s more likely the connectors.
Usually can be cleaned up and some electronic cleaner/lubricant
injected and away they go.
You must remenber as these cars age things start to dry up and
crack, loose lubrication…become brittle…much like us ;o]P

Cheers,
Maximus–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from XJ Danny sent Sun 13 Oct 2013:
My mechanic replaced the door lock actuator and the door lock now
works. The part was a stiff $479.53! That was a touch one to
swallow but I’m glad it’s fixed. Thanks to all for your input.
XJ Danny -1995 XJS Convertible, 2002 XJR
Snohomish, WA, United States


http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1380106357
Max98 XJ8 Sov.4.0 Saphire Blue, Australia
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In reply to a message from Exjay8 sent Sat 26 Oct 2013:

If another lock goes bad, I’ll look into cleaner/lubricant
as you suggested before getting a new part. But hopefully
I’m done dealing with stubborn door locks! But it is nice
to be able to lock my car now and not worry about leaving
it unlocked…–
XJ Danny -1995 XJS Convertible, 2002 XJR
Snohomish, WA, United States
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In reply to a message from XJ Danny sent Sun 27 Oct 2013:

Danny, it’s ane asy job to lube the lock mechanisms and only a
little harder to do all central locking units.
It also gives a chance to clean and lube the wiring connectors.
All this stuff hidden in the doors and never gets looked at.
Also gioves a chance to clean and lube the window actuator
mechanism…at least our cars have proper actuators and not some
poxy cable abortion which are extremely flimsey.
Your kinda weather gives these mechanisms a hard time…especially
on a 15 yar old car ;o]

Cheers,
Maximus–
The original message included these comments:

If another lock goes bad, I’ll look into cleaner/lubricant
as you suggested before getting a new part. But hopefully
I’m done dealing with stubborn door locks! But it is nice
to be able to lock my car now and not worry about leaving
it unlocked…
XJ Danny -1995 XJS Convertible, 2002 XJR
Snohomish, WA, United States


http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1380106357
Max98 XJ8 Sov.4.0 Saphire Blue, Australia
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