[xj] ABout the rheostat thing wires

HI

I have refinished the walnut and I deliberately didn’t cut holes
for the cigarette lighter or the rheostat that IIRC controls the
dashboard light levels. I assume that if I short the three wires
(well, one pair of red/blue and a red/white) I will either get them
full on or full off. WOuld anyone care to hazard which it would be;
obviously I want them full on. There is a litle complication tho.
When I cut the wires to the cigarette lighter, I found a thick
heavy pair (just black and white I think) but I also found a
red/blue wire, the same as the rheostat wires. I wonder if this
wire being cut will have any effect on the workings of the rheostat
wires. I have no idea why this one blue/red wire would be bound to
the cigarette lighter wires.
Why not just bind em all together and see, you ask? Well, I don’t
think that’s a really good idea. Last time I did that, I got a lot
of burned insulation.
Thanks
Phil–
Phil Moseley
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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Phil: the Blue/red wire at the cigar lighter is for the light bulb.
Safely disregarded, but the other wires need to be properly capped with a
Marr connector or similar because the feed to your lighter is live all the
time. Do not bind them together until the ends have bee safely covered and
place them in such a way that the ends (even covered) cannot meet.
If you simply bridge the rheostat wires together you will get full
illumination to the instruments, which, as you know, will make them
virtually illegible.

                            Gregory----- Original Message ----- 

From: “Phil Moseley” pmoseley@metrocast.net
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 4:50 PM
Subject: [xj] ABout the rheostat thing wires

: HI
:
: I have refinished the walnut and I deliberately didn’t cut holes
: for the cigarette lighter or the rheostat that IIRC controls the
: dashboard light levels. I assume that if I short the three wires
: (well, one pair of red/blue and a red/white) I will either get them
: full on or full off. WOuld anyone care to hazard which it would be;
: obviously I want them full on. There is a litle complication tho.
: When I cut the wires to the cigarette lighter, I found a thick
: heavy pair (just black and white I think) but I also found a
: red/blue wire, the same as the rheostat wires. I wonder if this
: wire being cut will have any effect on the workings of the rheostat
: wires. I have no idea why this one blue/red wire would be bound to
: the cigarette lighter wires.
: Why not just bind em all together and see, you ask? Well, I don’t
: think that’s a really good idea. Last time I did that, I got a lot
: of burned insulation.
: Thanks
: Phil
:

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Hello everybody,
I am interested in more information about the aux fan.
Mine is not working. I had it set up where I removed
the red relay, the used a couple of jumper wires and
made my own switch to turn it on and off manually.
Today that stopped working. Nothing I can do can bring
it back to life. I tried many things [new fuse, new
jumper wires, etc etc]. Here is my question: Looking
under the car I noticed two wires coming directly from
the aux fan and they connect to another set of wires.
Are there any other wires besides the two wires that
come from the aux fan? Can I directly connect power to
the two wires and see if the fan works on its own? I
fear I might need a new aux fan…help!__________________________________
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Phil:
Of course I am serious. The Jaguar is English. The dashboard lights have an
illumination intensity range from dim to non-existent. If you bridge the
rheostat wires, your will be at the high end: dim.
True story: I refurbished a Series III V12 VDP for someone here, for
sale. The Jaguar was sold to a very nice lady who phoned me the week after
purchase to rave about the car. She simply loved it. (It might be of
interest that she traded a very nice, newer XJ40 for it; the XJ40, in her
opinion, just didn’t look like a Jaguar). There was just one problem: the
dash lights weren’t working. Armed with my tools, I made a house call,
prepared to investigate the rheostat wiring. Diagnosis: nothing at all wrong
with the lights. She simply couldn’t read the instruments properly. When she
asked me what could be done about it, I told her it was an easy fix: buy a
different car.
Gregory----- Original Message -----
From: “Phil Moseley” pmoseley@metrocast.net
To: “Dr Gregory Andrachuk” v12-vdp@shaw.ca
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: [xj] ABout the rheostat thing wires

: Hi Gregory
: Are you serious? If the dashboard lights are full on, it makes them
: illegible?
: Or are you just pulling my leg?
: It wouldn’t take much to drill a hole in the walnut and put the rheostat
: back if it’s a big deal about the lighting.
: Phil

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Are there any other wires besides the two wires that
come from the aux fan? Can I directly connect power to
the two wires and see if the fan works on its own? I
fear I might need a new aux fan…help!

Don’t know how many other connections there may be, but applying 12V
directly to the leads of the fan motor will tell you whether or not the
motor is toast.===================================================
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Actually, there is some hope – go to Radio Shack and buy lamps rated at 14V,
200mA. They will do a decent job of getting up to “visible” from “dim”.–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

Dr Gregory Andrachuk wrote:

Phil:
Of course I am serious. The Jaguar is English. The dashboard lights have an
illumination intensity range from dim to non-existent. If you bridge the
rheostat wires, your will be at the high end: dim.
True story: I refurbished a Series III V12 VDP for someone here, for
sale. The Jaguar was sold to a very nice lady who phoned me the week after
purchase to rave about the car. She simply loved it. (It might be of
interest that she traded a very nice, newer XJ40 for it; the XJ40, in her
opinion, just didn’t look like a Jaguar). There was just one problem: the
dash lights weren’t working. Armed with my tools, I made a house call,
prepared to investigate the rheostat wiring. Diagnosis: nothing at all wrong
with the lights. She simply couldn’t read the instruments properly. When she
asked me what could be done about it, I told her it was an easy fix: buy a
different car.

===================================================
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Dr Gregory Andrachuk wrote:

Phil:
Of course I am serious. The Jaguar is English. The dashboard lights have an
illumination intensity range from dim to non-existent. If you bridge the
rheostat wires, your will be at the high end: dim.

As I see it, Gregory; if the rheostat’s resistance is 0 when “off” the
only alternative for more illumination is higher wattage lamps, right?
And such suitable lamps do not exist, right? Eat more carrots…?? :slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
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Frank, they do exist, and places like Radio Shack have them. Weep not.–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

Frank Andersen wrote:

As I see it, Gregory; if the rheostat’s resistance is 0 when “off” the
only alternative for more illumination is higher wattage lamps, right?
And such suitable lamps do not exist, right? Eat more carrots…?? :slight_smile:

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Cannara wrote:

Frank, they do exist, and places like Radio Shack have them. Weep not.

It’s typical, Alex; the things I don’t need is always available. But we don’t have the Radio Shacks down here…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
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In reply to a message from Chuck Renner sent Mon 17 May 2004:

You probably should observe polarity when testing fan motors by
connecting voltage directly to them. Found out the hard way when I
blew a diode inside a motor on my caddy. I was able to dissasemble
motor and replace diode. not easy! Taking posession of my 1st XJ
111 today. Average condition, 200K+ mi. Thanks to all who have
taken time to post ? & ans. Dont know where to start inspecting and
repairing. It is a daily driver but I want to be able to ‘‘keep it
in my bedroom’’ as soon as possible. Again thanks to all. LeroyR–
The original message included these comments:

Don’t know how many other connections there may be, but applying 12V
directly to the leads of the fan motor will tell you whether or not the
motor is toast.


Leroy Robbins
Shelton, Wa., United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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You probably should observe polarity when testing fan motors by
connecting voltage directly to them. Found out the hard way when I
blew a diode inside a motor on my caddy. I was able to dissasemble
motor and replace diode. not easy! Taking posession of my 1st XJ

Good point. Many motors won’t care, but I don’t know for certain whether that’s the case with this one.

111 today. Average condition, 200K+ mi. Thanks to all who have
taken time to post ? & ans. Dont know where to start inspecting and
repairing. It is a daily driver but I want to be able to ‘‘keep it
in my bedroom’’ as soon as possible. Again thanks to all. LeroyR

Well, Leroy, if you haven’t spent any time on the XJ section of the web site, you’ll want to. Start here:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/

You’ll especially want to dig into the FAQs and Info link, as that will give you a lot of info. Too much probably… :slight_smile:

Go into the FAQs themselves, and read the ‘Top Twenty’ repair issues that Doug Dwyer put together. As those are the things an XJ owner commonly deals with, you’ll want to check and see if any need attention on your car.

I’d also read the buyers guide (also by Doug), if you haven’t already. Even though you’ve already bought this car, it may help you to better evaluate what things need attention.===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
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Actually, if a brushless DC motor (as most fans are now) is given wrong
polarity, nothing should happen. The blowing of a diode in the GM one is very
suspicious and, if just due to reversal, indicates poor design. Oh, it’s GM,
right…
:]–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

Chuck Renner wrote:

You probably should observe polarity when testing fan motors by
connecting voltage directly to them. Found out the hard way when I
blew a diode inside a motor on my caddy. I was able to dissasemble
motor and replace diode. not easy! Taking posession of my 1st XJ

Good point. Many motors won’t care, but I don’t know for certain whether that’s the case with this one.

===================================================
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In reply to a message from Chuck Renner sent Fri 21 May 2004:

re New Owners-I appreciate the interest and advice, Chuck, and my
printer is working overtime to keep up with info I need. I did find
the hub on my plastic fan is cracked in several places. Will search
for advice in the forum. Wanted to drive her to Spokane on the 28th
but feel this should be corrected 1st. Any successful temporary
fixes? Epoxy? Thanks to ‘‘Frank’’ for his time to respond via E-mail.–
Leroy Robbins
Shelton, Wa., United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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printer is working overtime to keep up with info I need. I did find
the hub on my plastic fan is cracked in several places. Will search
for advice in the forum. Wanted to drive her to Spokane on the 28th
but feel this should be corrected 1st. Any successful temporary
fixes? Epoxy? Thanks to ‘‘Frank’’ for his time to respond via E-mail.

Epoxy wouldn’t hurt, but isn’t likely to make a strong enough repair. The
real danger comes if the fan has cracks, and your fan clutch siezes up.
This will cause the fan to spin much faster, and the forces will pull it
apart, causing damage to the radiator, bonnet, etc.===================================================
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Leroy, the visible cracks aren’t too much to worry about, because of how the
plastic is bonded to the steel disc. If it worries you a lot, get some brass
wire from a hobby store and some epoxy and wrap several turns of the the wire
around the fan at the base of the blades, while applying epoxy to hold the
wire in place. Use acetone to clean the surface first. This will hold the
fan together if failure were imminent.–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

Leroy Robbins wrote:

In reply to a message from Chuck Renner sent Fri 21 May 2004:

re New Owners-I appreciate the interest and advice, Chuck, and my
printer is working overtime to keep up with info I need. I did find
the hub on my plastic fan is cracked in several places. Will search
for advice in the forum. Wanted to drive her to Spokane on the 28th
but feel this should be corrected 1st. Any successful temporary
fixes? Epoxy? Thanks to ‘‘Frank’’ for his time to respond via E-mail.

===================================================
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