[xj] advice appreciated - gear oil dripping from final drive

went for a longish drive yesterday, only second run since getting
the S3 4.2 running after a long lay up with prev owner. pulled up
at home to a strong whiff of toasted gear oil from the rear.

had a snoop underneath and sure enough, oil splattered all over nr
side exhaust and nr side suspension components and a fair dribble
dripping off the plate which sits under the final drive unit. My
(newbie) guess is a seal on fd unit has let go, I did check final
drive drain bolt was sealed in nice and tight and it was -
unfortunately! :frowning:

Looking at my newly acquired jag service manual it looks a bloody
pig of a job to put a new oil seal in and I am not confident about
getting it right as inexperienced, but would love to have a go. Can
anyone advise me on if is it as hard as it looks? is there a good
way of tackling the job? do I need special tools ?
never know such highs and lows on an almost daily basis with any
other car I have owned before this one !! thanks for reading my
post,
regards stu–
stuboy_4.2
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Tricky business, here. If its the pinion seal replacement itself isn’t too
bad but getting the pinion preload set to exactly the right point can be
difficult…and if it ain’t right your diff won’t be long for the world.

If it is the stub axle seals, well, here’s a write up on the job. You can
read it and decide if you want to give it a whirl…

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/shaftseal.htm

Some of the usual Jag suppliers sell rebuilt stub axles with new bearings
and seals, greatly simplifying the job…at much greater expense, of
course.

On the bright side perhaps its just the cover gasket leaking ??

Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJR
1988 XJS V12 CoupeFrom: “stuboy_4.2” dirlewanger@btinternet.com

had a snoop underneath and sure enough, oil splattered all over nr
side exhaust and nr side suspension components and a fair dribble
dripping off the plate which sits under the final drive unit.

Looking at my newly acquired jag service manual it looks a bloody
pig of a job to put a new oil seal in and I am not confident about
getting it right as inexperienced, but would love to have a go.

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In reply to a message from stuboy_4.2 sent Mon 6 Nov 2006:

Stu, 'thou I own 3 of these fine autos I don’t have a total of some
200 miles between them. I have owned autos 2/3 of my life. Could it
be a plugged ‘vent’ in the diff? I don’t know that the Jaguar has
this incorpertate in their machanics but knowing they don’t have
the luxury of all the capacity of a one piece rearend (the air
space of the solid axle running to each side) any heat/presure in
such a confined area might want to pump out some ‘drip’ Post your
findings, as soon I’ll be jumping into this fine motor car model
and will be bending the ears of this post.–
Gary Boehm 76xj6 (400/400) 72xj6(p. car) 70xj6 (350/350)
lancaster,ca, United States
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In reply to a message from Gary Boehm sent Mon 6 Nov 2006:

Interesting idea. I expect that there is some kind of vent on the
differential. The idea that it is some how plugged has merit.

But then, the excessive pressure forces lube past one or more
seals. Still plausible. The next issue, is did the excess pressure
permanently damage the seals or will relieving the pressure by
clearing the vent stop the leak?

Race cars based on stock components have a cure for this problem.

A hose is attached to the vent and routed vertically to get away
from lateral G forces.

Just my idea.

Carl aka JAGCAD

83 XJ6 LT1 Shiny brown albeit imperfect

94 JEEP Grand Cherokee Laredo–
The original message included these comments:

200 miles between them. I have owned autos 2/3 of my life. Could it
be a plugged ‘vent’ in the diff? I don’t know that the Jaguar has
this incorpertate in their machanics but knowing they don’t have
the luxury of all the capacity of a one piece rearend (the air
space of the solid axle running to each side) any heat/presure in
such a confined area might want to pump out some ‘drip’ Post your
findings, as soon I’ll be jumping into this fine motor car model
and will be bending the ears of this post.


Carl Hutchins
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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If you see that more than one seal is leaky, Stu, maybe you’d prefer having a
rebuilt diff exchange, as Coventry West does?–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

stuboy_4.2 wrote:

went for a longish drive yesterday, only second run since getting
the S3 4.2 running after a long lay up with prev owner. pulled up
at home to a strong whiff of toasted gear oil from the rear.

had a snoop underneath and sure enough, oil splattered all over nr
side exhaust and nr side suspension components and a fair dribble
dripping off the plate which sits under the final drive unit. My
(newbie) guess is a seal on fd unit has let go, I did check final
drive drain bolt was sealed in nice and tight and it was -
unfortunately! :frowning:

Looking at my newly acquired jag service manual it looks a bloody
pig of a job to put a new oil seal in and I am not confident about
getting it right as inexperienced, but would love to have a go. Can
anyone advise me on if is it as hard as it looks? is there a good
way of tackling the job? do I need special tools ?
never know such highs and lows on an almost daily basis with any
other car I have owned before this one !! thanks for reading my
post,
regards stu

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
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In reply to a message from stuboy_4.2 sent Mon 6 Nov 2006:

Stu

I had a similar problem recently. One of the stub axle seals was
leaking. Tell tale oil on the brake disc.

A local chap who used to recondition these for a living suggested I
try replacing it myself as he was too busy to do it for me. In the
end I took it to the chap who rebuilt the manual gearbox and he
renewed several other bits as well.

It took me two days to get the diff out and a day and half to put
the rebuilt one back in.

As others have said, is the vent pipe ( 2’’ plastic tube on the back
plate - should point straight up) in tact?–
The original message included these comments:

Looking at my newly acquired jag service manual it looks a bloody
pig of a job to put a new oil seal in and I am not confident about
getting it right as inexperienced, but would love to have a go. Can
anyone advise me on if is it as hard as it looks? is there a good


al mclean '93 XJS 4.0 - '79 SII XJ6 mod - '84 4.2 Daimler
Telford, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from stuboy_4.2 sent Mon 6 Nov 2006:

Not wanting to give false hope, BUT you may find the leak settles
down after a while, if your pads aren’t ruined first by the oil.

The diff may have leather seals and these become hard if left
standing and not lubed by contact with oil. Not sure what year they
switched to synthetic seals, if at all, on the outputs? The input
seals can be rubber because they don’t get so hot. My E-type output
shaft seals bought only two years ago were leather.

If your second run was the first decent one and therefore the first
time the seals have had an oil bath in years, it may reduce the
leaking once they swell slightly and become more supple. Did you
over-fill the diff as part of your recommisioning?

The breather is a simple pot-metal or plastic tower you can see
clearly at about 2 o’clock on the diff cover plate and it has a
small baffle inside the cover plate to stop oil being flung up the
tube. The top of the tube has a fairly snug-fitting cover to
prevent water spray getting into the diff, so don’t think it’s a
bung in the breather tube. There only needs to be a small air gap
around the edge of the breather top because there isn’t a large
volume of air moving in and out during heating/cooling cycles.

Regular checks of oil level may show it settles to a level which is
fairly close to correct. If you get lucky than you may need to do
no more than get under there periodically to see how things are
progressing.

Seal rejuvenators you can buy for engines/gearboxes work by
swelling the rubber with organic esters IIRC, so are unlikley to
work with leather diff seals. But again, you could try a small
quantity perhaps.

Realistically you may not get that lucky. At least once it’s done
you can effectively forget this aspect for many years of use.–
Peter Crespin 66 2+2 E-type, 74 Daimler 4.2
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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