[xj] cold start

On my 86 xj6 when I start it up in the morning,or any time it’s cold
it will blow black smoke and just almost not keep running.As it warms up
it will do better,but still doesn’t run good.
any help would be welcome…
thanks
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when I start my car I cant drive it past like 20 mph until it
starts.my dad was saying something about a cold start injector or
something that may be the problem. how can I fix this?–
brandonc
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Could you repeat the question ?

Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJR
1988 XJS V12 CoupeFrom: “brandonc” brandonc@tampabay.rr.com

when I start my car I cant drive it past like 20 mph until it
starts.

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In reply to a message from Doug Dwyer sent Tue 21 Nov 2006:

I think he means that it overfuels massively for five minutes while
it warms up and cannot be driven above 40km/h. Mine does it too.–
john salter
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Ok, what color are the plugs when it’s balky? What’s the timing? Does it
advance properly with throttle? Is the CTS resistance correct? Are the 3"
rubber hoses behind the AFM to throttle really on well and not cracked?
What’s the fuel pressure? What does it do when warm and floored going up a
freeway hill?–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

john salter wrote:

In reply to a message from Doug Dwyer sent Tue 21 Nov 2006:

I think he means that it overfuels massively for five minutes while
it warms up and cannot be driven above 40km/h. Mine does it too.

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In reply to a message from Cannara sent Tue 21 Nov 2006:

i checked the plugs and they were pitch black and cruddy. im not
sure of the timing and I dont know how to check CTS resistance. I
have full belief that the 3’’ hoses are uncracked because I had
recently replaced them, and also I dont understand how that could
change once the car has warmed. when warm it runs like a
powerhouse, I often find myself sideways around corners with joy
after finally being able to drive the damn thing!–
The original message included these comments:

Ok, what color are the plugs when it’s balky? What’s the timing? Does it
advance properly with throttle? Is the CTS resistance correct? Are the 3’’
rubber hoses behind the AFM to throttle really on well and not cracked?
What’s the fuel pressure? What does it do when warm and floored going up a
freeway hill?


brandonc
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In reply to a message from brandonc sent Wed 22 Nov 2006:

Well, thats a good place to start, even if the plugs are
‘ok’. May cause a weak spark, too much crud ??

If they look like crap, a new set isn’t a whole lot of cash,
and is recommended periodically for good efficiency, running
etc…

Sounds mysteriously like overfuelling wherever the soure.
The CTS wouldn’t be the cause, that only squirts a tad extra
fuel in upon start up, and only for a brief moment, say a
second or a millisecond.

I personally would take a look at the AFM, I inadvertently
thought I had mine put together after a servicing, it ran
like crap, I rechecked, I pinched the bottom portion,
leaving an air gap between the hose and the AFM. While you
are in there, make sure the flap in the AFM isn’t binding.

I’m sure others have good ideas too.–
The original message included these comments:

I checked the plugs and they were pitch black and cruddy. im not


Dave W 85 XJ6 VDP ‘Black Beauty’ 157K - Rebuilding
Lansdale, PA, United States
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Ok, let’s start with the fuel return, which must be visible when you look into
the selected tank’s filler neck with a light (push flap aside)…

a) Be sure to check that when the dash switch is pushed in, no power goes to
neither the return valves (one in each rear wheel well) nor the selector valve
(in boot). With the button out, all valves have power. If this is absolutely
true, proceed to b).

b) Remove the left side return valve, marking fore & aft. Try to blow through
it from fore to aft – it should be easy. Apply 9 volts or so to its wires –
now you should be unable to blow through it at all. If true, reinstall the
valve, but verify the the arrow on its label indeed points from fore to aft.
Proceed to c).

c) Remove the right side return valve, marking fore & aft. Try to blow
through it from fore to aft – it should be impossible. Apply 9 volts or so
to its wires – it should be easy to blow through. If true, reinstall as for
the other side.

d) Recheck that fuel returns to exactly the tank selected. If not, double
check the selector valve, to be sure it drains only the left tank with no
power, and only the right tank with power.

If any above failed, you can fix it. If not proceed to getting the fuel
pressure measured on the fuel rail.–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

brandonc wrote:

In reply to a message from Cannara sent Tue 21 Nov 2006:

i checked the plugs and they were pitch black and cruddy. im not
sure of the timing and I dont know how to check CTS resistance. I
have full belief that the 3’’ hoses are uncracked because I had
recently replaced them, and also I dont understand how that could
change once the car has warmed. when warm it runs like a
powerhouse, I often find myself sideways around corners with joy
after finally being able to drive the damn thing!

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brandonc wrote:

In reply to a message from Cannara sent Tue 21 Nov 2006:

i checked the plugs and they were pitch black and cruddy. im not
sure of the timing and I dont know how to check CTS resistance. I
have full belief that the 3’’ hoses are uncracked because I had
recently replaced them, and also I dont understand how that could
change once the car has warmed. when warm it runs like a
powerhouse, I often find myself sideways around corners with joy
after finally being able to drive the damn thing!

Good sign, Brandon - actually the xk can swallow heaps of fuel with
little loss of power, so it is perhaps more to this than meets the eye…

Test; try running the cold engine with a constant throttle at various
rpms, both driving and in neutral. There is a specific problem that
causes overfuelling during cold throttle movements, simply rectified -
re the ‘cap-mod’.

If a steady throttle alleviates the smoking; certainly consider the
‘cap-mod’…

The CTS test is simply to unplug it and measure resistance between the
two prongs. This vary with temps, and a table is available to compare
with engine temps - a rough test. When hot the resistance should be in
the 250 - 300 ohms range. When cold a reading of some 2Kohms is a
reasonable pointer - it shouldn’t overfuel with that…:slight_smile:

In principle sooty plugs indicates overfuelling, though the plugs should
burn clean if fuelling is normal when hot. It all may be caused by an
ignition problem - that for some reason, and there are many, goes away
with the engine hot…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
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In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Thu 23 Nov 2006:

Fix it or the cat will die!

Don’t ask me why I know?

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

i checked the plugs and they were pitch black and cruddy. im not


Carl Hutchins
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