[xj] Heater Vacuum valve replacement

MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net

Cannara wrote:

Cannara cannara@attglobal.net

Mike, sounds like you’re the best flusher we have right now! Good that the
scrap fan has two speeds, because you can run low off a separate
sensor/controller and high off the A/C and/or AUx.

Alex
79xj6L SII

Alex,

In a previous post, you referred to a Factory Air part # 74612 valve
from Pepboys. Have you installed it? Does it work? Mine (the
original) has the dreaded ‘drip’.

Jim===================================================
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Cannara <@Cannara>

Yes, $6 Factory Air part # 74612 is on target – cost is down to $0.1/mi, even
if it fails now. It even is fine being supported by the hoses. (cover your
eyes Gregory) I was not impressed at the inner design of the valve in the OEM
part.

Alex

MillTech wrote:

MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net

Cannara wrote:

[clip]> >

Alex,

In a previous post, you referred to a Factory Air part # 74612 valve
from Pepboys. Have you installed it? Does it work? Mine (the
original) has the dreaded ‘drip’.

Jim

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“Stowe, Ted-SEA” StowT@PerkinsCoie.com

Jim if you need a valve, let me know, for a copy of the chronicle and
postage, I’ll send you a used one I have here on the shelf.

Ted-----Original Message-----
From: MillTech [mailto:MillTech@pacbell.net]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 9:29 PM
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xj] Heater Vacuum valve replacement

MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net

Cannara wrote:

Cannara cannara@attglobal.net

Mike, sounds like you’re the best flusher we have right now! Good that
the
scrap fan has two speeds, because you can run low off a separate
sensor/controller and high off the A/C and/or AUx.

Alex
79xj6L SII

Alex,

In a previous post, you referred to a Factory Air part # 74612 valve
from Pepboys. Have you installed it? Does it work? Mine (the
original) has the dreaded ‘drip’.

Jim

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Vilis <@Vilis>

For what it’s worth, I replaced my heater valve with the “Factory Air” unit today.
I’m trying to finish reassembly after a long drawn-out valve and head repair session, and
had noticed the green drip at the valve prior to tear down, so decided to use the moment
when I have room.

The new valve cost about US 6.50 at Pep Boys and seems a perfect fit.

I removed the OEM valve by gently prying up the fresh air vent grille. There is a pin at either end
which goes through some kind of rubber grommet. The pins are friable. I have only one left, and will
need to invent a fix down the road. Under the grille were a couple of 5/32 nuts which I had to hold while
removing the 5/32 bolts from the engine side.

I used a vise to hold the bracket while I removed the OEM valve. I reinstalled the old bracket so it’s
there should anyone want to restore it to original.

The bracket works well to hold the new valve with a wire tie.

Yours,

VilisOn Tuesday, June 20, 2000 12:29 AM, MillTech [SMTP:MillTech@pacbell.net] wrote:

MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net
Alex,

In a previous post, you referred to a Factory Air part # 74612 valve
from Pepboys. Have you installed it? Does it work? Mine (the
original) has the dreaded ‘drip’.

Jim

===================================================
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MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net

Cannara wrote:

Cannara cannara@attglobal.net

Yes, $6 Factory Air part # 74612 is on target – cost is down to $0.1/mi, even
if it fails now. It even is fine being supported by the hoses. (cover your
eyes Gregory) I was not impressed at the inner design of the valve in the OEM
part.

Alex

Alex,

Got the valve. Does it matter which way it is installed? Mine ha a
little arrow on one side.

Jim===================================================
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Cannara <@Cannara>

Jim,

I suppose you should follow the arrow so it points toward the A/C hose inlet.
I just used the hoses to support it, but had replaced the one to the A/C with
a somewhat longer new one and cut short the one from the water rail, so the
valve sits closer to the intake side and the vacuum line.

By the way, on all coolant fittings, including threaded pieces, I use silicone
grease (like a very thick oil) so that it’ll prevent corrosion of the metal
parts and make it easy to get the items apart later. Even on the
plastic-to-rubber junction for this valve I used it. Vaseline will do as
well.

Alex
79xj6L SII

MillTech wrote:>

MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net

Cannara wrote:

Cannara <@Cannara>

Yes, $6 Factory Air part # 74612 is on target – cost is down to $0.1/mi, even
if it fails now. It even is fine being supported by the hoses. (cover your
eyes Gregory) I was not impressed at the inner design of the valve in the OEM
part.

Alex

Alex,

Got the valve. Does it matter which way it is installed? Mine ha a
little arrow on one side.

Jim

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“Danny Herrin” <@Danny_Herrin1>

You know one of the worst things about this site is that
every time we start talking about something and I check
it on my car, it’s broke too. Drip, Drip, Urrrrr!
Danny----- Original Message -----
From: “Cannara” cannara@attglobal.net
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [xj] Heater Vacuum valve replacement

Cannara cannara@attglobal.net

Jim,

I suppose you should follow the arrow so it points toward the A/C hose
inlet.
I just used the hoses to support it, but had replaced the one to the A/C
with
a somewhat longer new one and cut short the one from the water rail, so
the
valve sits closer to the intake side and the vacuum line.

By the way, on all coolant fittings, including threaded pieces, I use
silicone
grease (like a very thick oil) so that it’ll prevent corrosion of the
metal
parts and make it easy to get the items apart later. Even on the
plastic-to-rubber junction for this valve I used it. Vaseline will do as
well.

Alex
79xj6L SII

MillTech wrote:

MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net

Cannara wrote:

Cannara cannara@attglobal.net

Yes, $6 Factory Air part # 74612 is on target – cost is down to
$0.1/mi, even

if it fails now. It even is fine being supported by the hoses.
(cover your

eyes Gregory) I was not impressed at the inner design of the valve in
the OEM

part.

Alex

Alex,

Got the valve. Does it matter which way it is installed? Mine ha a
little arrow on one side.

Jim

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“Paul” <@Paul>

Well, Danny, at least you now know how to fix whatever is broken!
Paul
84 XJ6

“Danny Herrin” dannyherrin@istmacon.net

You know one of the worst things about this site is that
every time we start talking about something and I check
it on my car, it’s broke too. Drip, Drip, Urrrrr!
Danny

----- Original Message -----
From: “Cannara” cannara@attglobal.net
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [xj] Heater Vacuum valve replacement

Cannara cannara@attglobal.net

Jim,

I suppose you should follow the arrow so it points toward the A/C hose
inlet.
I just used the hoses to support it, but had replaced the one to the A/C
with
a somewhat longer new one and cut short the one from the water rail, so
the
valve sits closer to the intake side and the vacuum line.

By the way, on all coolant fittings, including threaded pieces, I use
silicone
grease (like a very thick oil) so that it’ll prevent corrosion of the
metal
parts and make it easy to get the items apart later. Even on the
plastic-to-rubber junction for this valve I used it. Vaseline will do as
well.

Alex
79xj6L SII

MillTech wrote:

MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net

Cannara wrote:

Cannara cannara@attglobal.net

Yes, $6 Factory Air part # 74612 is on target – cost is down to
$0.1/mi, even

if it fails now. It even is fine being supported by the hoses.
(cover your

eyes Gregory) I was not impressed at the inner design of the valve in
the OEM

part.

Alex

Alex,

Got the valve. Does it matter which way it is installed? Mine ha a
little arrow on one side.

Jim

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“Charles Nowlin” <@Charles_Nowlin>

Danny,
This is called “the early warning alert”
you hear so much about…

Imagine if we didn’t have the site???

Charlie---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: “Danny Herrin” dannyherrin@istmacon.net
Reply-To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:08:04 -0500

“Danny Herrin” dannyherrin@istmacon.net

You know one of the worst things about this site is that
every time we start talking about something and I check
it on my car, it’s broke too. Drip, Drip, Urrrrr!
Danny

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“Danny Herrin” <@Danny_Herrin1>

Paul, Charlie: How true! I just hate putting any more money
into the car until I get my frame rust sorted out or a different
Series III. But, since I’m having a “tinker withdraw” and I hate
having a deficient Cat, I guess I can still sink money into a possible
parts car and have a whole bunch more new parts on it when
the next Cat shows up at my door.
Thanks
Danny

“Paul” paulbentz@home.com

Well, Danny, at least you now know how to fix whatever is broken!
Paul
84 XJ6

“Charles Nowlin” chache@thethinker.com

Danny,
This is called “the early warning alert”
you hear so much about…

Imagine if we didn’t have the site???

Charlie

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: “Danny Herrin” <@Danny_Herrin1>
Reply-To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:08:04 -0500

“Danny Herrin” <@Danny_Herrin1>

You know one of the worst things about this site is that
every time we start talking about something and I check
it on my car, it’s broke too. Drip, Drip, Urrrrr!
Danny

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MillTech MillTech@Pacbell.net

Cannara wrote:

Cannara cannara@attglobal.net

Jim,

I suppose you should follow the arrow so it points toward the A/C hose inlet.
I just used the hoses to support it, but had replaced the one to the A/C with
a somewhat longer new one and cut short the one from the water rail, so the
valve sits closer to the intake side and the vacuum line.

By the way, on all coolant fittings, including threaded pieces, I use silicone
grease (like a very thick oil) so that it’ll prevent corrosion of the metal
parts and make it easy to get the items apart later. Even on the
plastic-to-rubber junction for this valve I used it. Vaseline will do as
well.

Alex
79xj6L SII

Thanks Alex & apologies to Danny Herrin. By the way does anyone have a
current e-mail address for Hunt Dabney???

Regards
Jim Downes===================================================
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