I’ve tried several and never found one that actually removed to rather
crusty corrosion we so often see. Sometimes, though, you can’t really access
the connector for manual cleaning so the spray stuff, together with
reseating the connector several times, is the next best thing.
Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJRFrom: “345 DeSoto” tdefoster@aol.com
Since it appears that 95% of the problems associated with the
electrical systems on our cars are due to corroded wiring
terminals/connections, would electrical contact cleaner help? I
wonder if there is some sort of spray on which will dissolve the
corrosion,
One thing that works with bullets is a Dremel wire brush for the male parts
and a Q-tip dipped in grinding compund for the female parts. Keep the Q-tip
small so it fits (curb your excitement :). Here’s an example, NJ, non-mob
bullet…
Once the parts are cleared of corrosion, use acetone to clean off anything
else and then use light oil or electrical grease on all surfaces before
reassembly. Of course, be sure the bullets fit tightly. Same for spades,
which are largely self cleaning.–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.
Doug Dwyer wrote:
I’ve tried several and never found one that actually removed to rather
crusty corrosion we so often see. Sometimes, though, you can’t really
access the connector for manual cleaning so the spray stuff, together
with reseating the connector several times, is the next best thing.
And, if you remove the fusebox, so you can see underneath, note the blu/red
jumper for the lows. It’s a single wire, so gets hot when lamps are on. You
can add a parallel jumper to reduce that heating. With the box upside down,
you can also find the sneaky split clips and solder their ends together.–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.
Steve. wrote:
In reply to a message from dns2jags sent Sun 15 Apr 2007:
So to get to under the fuse box under the hood the bolt loosens
from insdie the wheel well. Contact cleaner, small wire brush,
steel wool and love will clean them up. disconnect the ground of
the battery before you spray the contact cleaner. As long as you
are doing go ahead and do replace all of the fuses and do the
other fuse boxs as well as it will reduce other the germlin (LUCUS)
problems. The headlight problems are in the box under the hood
though.
Since it appears that 95% of the problems associated with the
electrical systems on our cars are due to corroded wiring
terminals/connections, would electrical contact cleaner help? I
wonder if there is some sort of spray on which will dissolve the
corrosion, then a spray on protectant to prevent further
corrosion…
What I have done to my electrics along these lines is to brush the fuse
box connections with a brass brush to remove corrosion. Then I used a
toothbrush to put a thin coat of silicone grease on the terminals. This
keeps out moisture, but allows electrical contact.
Another product is available, called ‘Stabilant’. Google it and see.
This is a liquid that is dissolved in alcohol. When it is applied, the
alcohol evaporates and leaves a very thin coating of the product. This
becomes conductive in the presence of an electric field, and the end
result is that contacts become very low resistance to electric current,
and very resistant to corrosion.
It sounds like snake oil, but this product has been around for a number
of years. I work in the data network R&D field, and this product was
recently specified by us to be used when assembling one of our products,
as it solved a particular connection issue. I used it inside the engine
bay white moulded bullet connectors.
The other thing I did, was remove each pair of blades from the fuseboxes
and solder both sides together with some tinned copper wire. I also
soldered the crimped connections to the fusebox wiring. Most of the
connections to the fuse box only go to one blade of the fuse holder, so
contact is not very efficient. The original Lucas fuses are prone to
corrosion inside the end caps, so replace all the fuses at the same time
with new ones. I have photos of the work I did if anyone is interested.
Since I carried out the above work, I have had no problems at all with
fuses or bad contacts.
In reply to a message from Pete Margetts sent Mon 16 Apr 2007:
The best stuff is old fashioned 1,1,1 trichloroethane based
contact cleaner/solvents I have a few cans laying around
and it is good stuff. Brake cleaners I believe carry the
same solvent.
Sniff too much and you get woozy, ether is the common name IIRC.–
Dave W 85 XJ6 VDP ‘Black Beauty’ 157K - Getting closer !!
Lansdale, PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from 1985vdp sent Mon 16 Apr 2007:
That sounds like the fluid used by clothing dry cleaning
establishments. If so, it is now outlawed, like most effective
cleaners!
Even auto paint is going to water as a solvent!
At one time we could buy parts cleaner in gallon containers. Put in
smallparts in a basket, cleaned like new. Smelled awful. A friendly
version then came out. it was too friendly to dirt. I haven’t seen
it lately.
I still have a can or two of carbon tetrachloride. Not too bad as a
cleaner.
Carl
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
The best stuff is old fashioned 1,1,1 trichloroethane based
contact cleaner/solvents I have a few cans laying around
and it is good stuff. Brake cleaners I believe carry the
same solvent.
Sniff too much and you get woozy, ether is the common name IIRC.
I have a few cans laying around
I have a few cans laying around