[xj] How to find and fix IRS toe out problem?

XJ
1

My '71 XJ just came out of the excellent frame shop. All is
well now with the hidden accident damage that the PO did not
declare. the doors all fit and the trunk lid. They now sound
like a bank vault and rest of the car body is 100%.

The rear tires have worn ‘‘funny’’ forever and all the other
IRS parts have been rebuilt by me in the near past. I
dropped it for new brakes, E brakes and rotors, calipers and
to change out the gears for a 2:88 LSD. All the rubber,
mounting pieces (4), shocks and springs are all new.

But, the rear end has a 1/4’’ toe out and I do not know how
to determine which side is ‘‘out’’ or it is a combination of
sides. Do not know for sure which side(s) were hit as it has
been improperly repaired previously, but suspect the drivers
side.

I can change the IRS parts out that are bent (probably a
swing arm(s) but would like to know which one(s). Then how
to determine if they are correctly pointing the rear tires
down the road?

Only know the front of the rear tires are 1/4’’ toe out from
the rear edge of the tire tread.–
'71 XJ6 383/200R, '72 XJ6 LT1/700R,'74 XJ6 383/700R
Glendora, CA, United States
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2

In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Thu 2 Aug 2012:

Roger I had the same issue when I bought my S1, but in my case it
was toe in on the left hand side. An alignment shop was able to
identify it as the Left Hand side, and while both rear tyres wore
on the outer edges, the L/H wore more, and more quickly. In
addition when I took the suspension apart one of the L/H inner
fulcrum mounting bolts had sheared off in the diff head.

A replacement L/H lower arm cured the problem.–
The original message included these comments:

The rear tires have worn ‘‘funny’’ forever and all the other
IRS parts have been rebuilt by me in the near past. I
But, the rear end has a 1/4’’ toe out and I do not know how
to determine which side is ‘‘out’’ or it is a combination of
sides. Do not know for sure which side(s) were hit as it has
been improperly repaired previously, but suspect the drivers
side.

–
Neville S1 XJ12, Megasquirt ECU
Christchurch, New Zealand
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3

In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Thu 2 Aug 2012:

Hi Roger,

If you have a builder/masons 2 metre aluminium straight edge
and you park your car on a good flat surface, you can work
out your toe-in as quick as you like. I’ve used this method
on my Jags and Mercedes for years because the ‘‘shops’’, even
with the most state of the art laser and GPS technology,
DON’T HAVE COORDINATES for the older/ less popular cars.

All you have to do is place one end of the straight edge
over the tyre via the axis of the wheel and trace with chalk
where the other end touches the road. Simple geometry
follows, measure the distance between left and right hand
wheels in front of the rear wheels, then behind them. The
disparity between measurements indicates toe-in (using PI
and the circumference of a circle).

Mick Hilton,
France.–
mental
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4

In reply to a message from mental sent Thu 2 Aug 2012:

I agree with Mick, Roger. I use a similar method to set the
front toe. In your case, with toe-out, simply place a long
straight edge across the tire at the center–facing
forward. It should be approximately parallel to the body of
the car. See if there’s a difference side-to-side. I’ve
used a straight edge designed to clamp to an 8 foot sheet of
plywood for guiding a circular saw.

Zero toe causes the straight edge to come very close to just
grazing the front tire.–
The original message included these comments:

If you have a builder/masons 2 metre aluminium straight edge
and you park your car on a good flat surface, you can work
out your toe-in as quick as you like. I’ve used this method

–
Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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5

In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Thu 2 Aug 2012:

Thanks to all for the replies. I will try the straight edge
method with something rigid and true.

Once I find out the side causing the problem, I am sure I can
change out the offending part(s).

It is my hope that only one side is ‘‘out’’ and the other is OK.
I was assured the specs are all OK now and the cage itself is
not out of place or bent.

Will post the results of the examination and then the FIX.–
The original message included these comments:

I agree with Mick, Roger. I use a similar method to set the
straight edge across the tire at the center–facing
forward. It should be approximately parallel to the body of
the car. See if there’s a difference side-to-side. I’ve
used a straight edge designed to clamp to an 8 foot sheet of
plywood for guiding a circular saw.
Zero toe causes the straight edge to come very close to just
grazing the front tire.

–
'71 XJ6 383/200R, '72 XJ6 LT1/700R,'74 XJ6 383/700R
Glendora, CA, United States
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6

In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Thu 2 Aug 2012:

Roger:

Four ideas:

  1. Measure the wheel base on each side and compare. It would be
    helpful to have a car that is known to be aligned to compare to,
    but one to another might be interesting. The side with the longest
    dimension has the most toe out!

  2. Measure the distance between the two rear wheels at the bottom.
    Draw a chalk line. erect a straight line exactly perpindicular to
    that line. More of Mick’s geometry. Drop a line from the leading
    edge of each rear wheel and mark the spot. A plumb bob would work.
    repeat at the trailing edge. Connect all the dots. Measure
    carefully. That should give you deviation from center at four
    points.

  3. I’ve used a masons line for setting toe on my trucks. Much
    simpler suspensions!!! Thumb tack to the center of the trad at mid
    wheel on the rear wheel, extend the line to the center of the tread
    on the front midwheel. If the liine is flat across the rear wheel,
    any in or out toe on the front will show as a deviation from the
    extended line. I just adjusted each tie rod on each side to dead
    nuts straight and then a couple of twists in and done!! Eye balling
    along the line at line level would reveal the deflection!! It isn’t
    much.

  4. Drive the rear wheels through a patch of wet pavement. Examine
    and meaure the resultant track, right to left, front and rear. Do
    it so that only the rear wheelas go through the wet pavement. Doing
    all four is another test for a different issue.

Carl
Carl–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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7

cadjag wrote:

In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Thu 2 Aug 2012:

Roger:

Four ideas:

  1. Measure the wheel base on each side and compare. It would be
    helpful to have a car that is known to be aligned to compare to,
    but one to another might be interesting. The side with the longest
    dimension has the most toe out!

Honestly, Carl - I would have thought that any alignment shop would have
revealed or can reveal a rear toe fault with certainty…:slight_smile:

Admittedly, a gross fault may certainly show up with the methods
described - but the tolerance is 1/32" out of parallel. And ‘parallel’
in this case means in line with the center line of the car - not to each
other, or to any other reference points…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)>2. Measure the distance between the two rear wheels at the bottom.

Draw a chalk line. erect a straight line exactly perpindicular to
that line. More of Mick’s geometry. Drop a line from the leading
edge of each rear wheel and mark the spot. A plumb bob would work.
repeat at the trailing edge. Connect all the dots. Measure
carefully. That should give you deviation from center at four
points.

  1. I’ve used a masons line for setting toe on my trucks. Much
    simpler suspensions!!! Thumb tack to the center of the trad at mid
    wheel on the rear wheel, extend the line to the center of the tread
    on the front midwheel. If the liine is flat across the rear wheel,
    any in or out toe on the front will show as a deviation from the
    extended line. I just adjusted each tie rod on each side to dead
    nuts straight and then a couple of twists in and done!! Eye balling
    along the line at line level would reveal the deflection!! It isn’t
    much.

  2. Drive the rear wheels through a patch of wet pavement. Examine
    and meaure the resultant track, right to left, front and rear. Do
    it so that only the rear wheelas go through the wet pavement. Doing
    all four is another test for a different issue.

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8

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Sat 4 Aug 2012:

Frank:

Agree, Frame alignment is based on the principle of establishing
the center line of the chassism front to rear. all meaurements and
corections to that center line.

Wheel alignment or more properly, suspension alignment shoukld be
done in the same manner, but in practive, I doubt it.

Bubble based devices set camber and caster to the axle as a
fulcrum. Toe id less precise, merely one wheel to the other front
measurement to rear messurement. Just hoping more or less that the
relation to crnter of chsssis hasn’t vhsnged. But, mesuroint wheel
bases and comparing them will give s good notion as to whether the
chassis is diamond and thst the center is off oin relatuon to the
wheels.

So, as Roger and the most of us do not have alignment racks, we
resort to geometry as Mick, Bob and I describe or similar.

heck, I saw a sprint car’s axle being straightened on the car by
putting it against a post and besting it with s sledge. it wass a
winner the next day at the fairgrounds. An outlaw Offy. Probsbly
out to about 300 Ci, over the legal 220’s or even 270’s. CRA let
any power plant in sprint or modified roadster garb. Really good
racing on the half mile dirt track, formerly a horse track.

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

Honestly, Carl - I would have thought that any alignment shop would have
revealed or can reveal a rear toe fault with certainty…:slight_smile:
Admittedly, a gross fault may certainly show up with the methods
described - but the tolerance is 1/32’’ out of parallel. And ‘parallel’
in this case means in line with the center line of the car - not to each
other, or to any other reference points…:slight_smile:

–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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9

cadjag wrote:

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Sat 4 Aug 2012:

Frank:

Agree, Frame alignment is based on the principle of establishing
the center line of the chassism front to rear. all meaurements and
corections to that center line.

Wheel alignment or more properly, suspension alignment shoukld be
done in the same manner, but in practive, I doubt it.

Bubble based devices set camber and caster to the axle as a
fulcrum. Toe id less precise, merely one wheel to the other front
measurement to rear messurement. Just hoping more or less that the
relation to crnter of chsssis hasn’t vhsnged. But, mesuroint wheel
bases and comparing them will give s good notion as to whether the
chassis is diamond and thst the center is off oin relatuon to the
wheels.

So, as Roger and the most of us do not have alignment racks, we
resort to geometry as Mick, Bob and I describe or similar.

Sure, Carl something is better than nothing, but no substitute for
proper allignment equipment…

As rear wheel toe, as in this case, is non-adjustable some drastic
action a la sprint cars, may be required - so it better be right…:slight_smile:

Hypothetically; a straight edge along the front and rear tires on the
ground nominally represents the center line. And measuring the wheels’
front and rear distance from this ‘center line’ as equidistant should
be zero toe with respect to the true centerline. However, wheel camber
and tyre distortion may create anomalies. Body projections prevents
measuring directly at wheel centers, though this can be overcome, of
course…

My prime intent was to emphasise the center line as the reference for
each wheels toe - certainly not to critisise various DIY methods for
measuring suspension geometry. And I just wondered why an allignment
shop didn’t get the rear wheel toes…:))

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)>heck, I saw a sprint car’s axle being straightened on the car by

putting it against a post and besting it with s sledge. it wass a
winner the next day at the fairgrounds. An outlaw Offy. Probsbly
out to about 300 Ci, over the legal 220’s or even 270’s. CRA let
any power plant in sprint or modified roadster garb. Really good
racing on the half mile dirt track, formerly a horse track.

The original message included these comments:

Honestly, Carl - I would have thought that any alignment shop would have
revealed or can reveal a rear toe fault with certainty…:slight_smile:
Admittedly, a gross fault may certainly show up with the methods
described - but the tolerance is 1/32’’ out of parallel. And ‘parallel’
in this case means in line with the center line of the car - not to each
other, or to any other reference points…:slight_smile:

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10

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

No alignment shops want to work on old Jag IRS problems - period.
We have several hot rod shops locally that do conversions using the
Jag parts. My needs are different, what is causing my toe out?

What I need to know is which side(s) are causing the problem
so I can change out the bent parts.

Prior to the frame shop work, the LH rear wheel was toe out 1/4
inch and that was determined by a straight piece of metal from the
rear tires to the front one(s). I do not have that metal piece any
longer.

Will try a laser level light, hopefully today. If it is still out
on that side:

What piece is ‘‘probably’’ bent? The swing arm???–
The original message included these comments:

My prime intent was to emphasise the center line as the reference for
each wheels toe - certainly not to critisise various DIY methods for
measuring suspension geometry. And I just wondered why an allignment
shop didn’t get the rear wheel toes…:))

–
'71 XJ6 383/200R, '72 XJ6 LT1/700R,'74 XJ6 383/700R
Glendora, CA, United States
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11

In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

Roger:

Yeah, a laser level oughta shoot as straight a line as anything
else!!

I can think of four elements that locate the hub. A deviation in of
which would result in a toe errror:
A. Halfshaft. Could a loose ujoint do that with no other symptoms?
Probsbly not.

B. Swing arm. Slop in either the inner or outter or both fulcrums
is more likely. As is a bent swing arm. However, they are pretty
sturdy.

C. Radius arm. As a stamping and set in rubber, that would be my
prime suspect

D. The wheel bearings. Just a tad extended about fourteen inches,
the radius, just might be it.

I’ve ruled put the cage itself, but tht might be folly!!

Yeah, alignment shops want to make money. Get em in, get them out,
get the money. No time for odd thinking requirements.

Frank, not criticism, just input of thinking, always welcome in my
way of thinking. Intentional redundancy.

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

No alignment shops want to work on old Jag IRS problems - period.
We have several hot rod shops locally that do conversions using the
Jag parts. My needs are different, what is causing my toe out?
What I need to know is which side(s) are causing the problem
so I can change out the bent parts.
Prior to the frame shop work, the LH rear wheel was toe out 1/4
inch and that was determined by a straight piece of metal from the
rear tires to the front one(s). I do not have that metal piece any
longer.
Will try a laser level light, hopefully today. If it is still out
on that side:

–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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12

In reply to a message from cadjag sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

IRS cage has been ruled out by the frame shop. They claim
all
the measurements are correct in relation to frame.

Frank is correct, there is no toe out adjustment per se, but
bent/loose/badly worn parts can cause the problems.

Since this car was in an accident, bent IRS parts are
suspect.

The whole IRS was out of the car prior to the frame shop for
new rotors, caliper, E Brakes, hose and 2:88 LSD gears. The
radius arm rubbers and (4) frame mounting rubber parts were
changed. It has a proper, straight drive shaft with newish
U-joints from the conversion and new 200R trans.

Radius arms ‘‘appear’’ to be straight and they fit back on
properly with the new rubbers. Will attempt to check them
with a straight edge or some other device.

If the arms were not attached to the frame, and the toe out
was still off, that would rule out the arms?

I strongly believe, there is a bad/bent part in the IRS.
Either left or right hand side, probably drivers side. I
could change out ALL the parts on that side, but would
prefer knowing which part(s) are really bent or broken.

There was another Forum poster that had a bent swing arm and
straightened it himself. I cannot find that article
anylonger?

Cars drives properly, no vibrations or other nonsense, just
wearing out the rear tires. Need new tires in the rear but
hesitate until the problem is found and fixed. I am sure
the mpg will increase as well when it is going straight down
the road without the extra ‘‘resistance’’ of scrubbing the
rear tires.

Steering wheel wants to favor the LH from center, if that is
a clue? It does not pull to the LH, just the wheel is not
centered any longer…–
The original message included these comments:

B. Swing arm. Slop in either the inner or outter or both fulcrums
is more likely. As is a bent swing arm. However, they are pretty
sturdy.
C. Radius arm. As a stamping and set in rubber, that would be my
prime suspect

–
'71 XJ6 383/200R, '72 XJ6 LT1/700R,'74 XJ6 383/700R
Glendora, CA, United States
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13

In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

Roger:

Can you tell if the deviation is on the driver or pasenger side?
Or, a little on each?

If the toe out remains with the radius arms detached, I think it
rules them out.

That leaves one or both swing arms. Do you have a pair tht are
known to be straight? Perhaps careful measurement and comparison
might reveal the culprit.

At least for the moment, I don’t see a relation of the slightly off
center steering wheel. Not so good a sign as to the alignment shop.
Gee, that’s rather basic, just to please an owner on impression if
nothing else. To me, it’s a sign of incomplete work and possibly
more. Geez, even the DIYers get that right.

Although I fought my F150 on that. Finaly my son discovered a
busted frame. No wonder I couldn’t get it right, it kept changing!!
He TIG welded it up and created a triangulated tubular cross brace
that Ford should have included. Much better!!!

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

Radius arms ‘‘appear’’ to be straight and they fit back on
properly with the new rubbers. Will attempt to check them
with a straight edge or some other device.
If the arms were not attached to the frame, and the toe out
was still off, that would rule out the arms?
Steering wheel wants to favor the LH from center, if that is
a clue? It does not pull to the LH, just the wheel is not
centered any longer…

–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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14

In reply to a message from cadjag sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

Alignment shop did nothing, they were asked by the frame
shop to tell him/fix the rear toe out. They did not know
what to do, they could not fix the toe out problem due to
lack of knowledge and parts. So, they did nothing.

I can center the steering wheel. Trying to measure the parts
and compare from one car to another is not possible for me.
I have other Jags, but have no idea what measurement(s)
would help.

I will try to find the time to take it my local front end
shop and see if they will put it on their equipment and tell
me how and which side is out.

Have not worked on the toe out problem, it is 107F here
today and doing car work outside is not an option. Maybe
tonight or early in the AM.

Am spending my AM’s installing a new in ground spa that
connects to the existing pool equipment. Much more important
than a Jag problem!–
The original message included these comments:

If the toe out remains with the radius arms detached, I think it
rules them out.
That leaves one or both swing arms. Do you have a pair tht are
known to be straight? Perhaps careful measurement and comparison
might reveal the culprit.
At least for the moment, I don’t see a relation of the slightly off
center steering wheel. Not so good a sign as to the alignment shop.

–
'71 XJ6 383/200R, '72 XJ6 LT1/700R,'74 XJ6 383/700R
Glendora, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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15

In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

Roger it is my opinion that the fact you can buy aftermarket
swingarms (lower wishbone), that are strengthened and triangulated,
tells you all you need to know about which part is likely bent.

On my own example (3/4’’ toe in), I couldn’t see the bend just by
looking at the arm, but that’s where the problem lay. I suppose a
couple of suitable lengths of rod through the pivot points would
have soon shown the problem up, but I didn’t have anything suitable
to hand. A replacement was a fairly quick and easy fix.–
Neville S1 XJ12, Megasquirt ECU
Christchurch, New Zealand
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16

Roger Mabry wrote:

In reply to a message from cadjag sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

Alignment shop did nothing, they were asked by the frame
shop to tell him/fix the rear toe out. They did not know
what to do, they could not fix the toe out problem due to
lack of knowledge and parts. So, they did nothing.

There is really nothing an alignment shop can do at the rear anyway,
Roger - any alignment fault is a repair job…

The alignment shop should at least have clarified the actual
measurements for the toe - obviating uncertain DIY readings. It’s
absolutely essential for further assessment to get the toe verified for
each wheel with respect to car centerline. And the magnitude of
deviation is not unimportant for fault identification…

The workshop manual has the relevant spec measurements for the wishbone

  • and while other faults cannot be excluded; the wishbone is the likely
    culprit. And in any case; as it can be assessed with some certainty -
    measurements will either confirm or reject this, narrowing the list of
    suspects…

Apart from visual detection of obvious damage, there is no possibility
of verifying wishbone anomalies in-car - measuring geometry only reveals
that something is wrong, but not what. Which accentuates the advantage
of knowing which side is ‘off’ - and as it is unlikely that both
wishbones has the same fault; faulty toe on both sides implies that it
is not a wishbone fault…

Apart from cage faults, seemingly eliminated, and actual rear cage
misalignmen, which would affect both sides more or less - the wishbone
is crucial. It is the fundamental part keeping the wheel in correct
for-and-aft position, which is a main toe issue - the radius arm is just
a back-up support with some ‘give’, and cannot really force the the
wishbone out of line…

I suggest to remove and measure the wishbone - comparing it to specs, to
get one doubt out of the way. While replacing a wishbone may or may not
cure the problem; you still have to verify that the toe is then correct

  • which really is a must before any operation. Abnormal rear tyre wear
    certainly implies a toe fault, but may also be caused by a body anomaly…

And as an aside; bent suspension parts should not be straighten, having
already suffered stress; an further stress by rebending may seriously
compromise strength…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)>I can center the steering wheel. Trying to measure the parts

and compare from one car to another is not possible for me.
I have other Jags, but have no idea what measurement(s)
would help.

I will try to find the time to take it my local front end
shop and see if they will put it on their equipment and tell
me how and which side is out.

Have not worked on the toe out problem, it is 107F here
today and doing car work outside is not an option. Maybe
tonight or early in the AM.

Am spending my AM’s installing a new in ground spa that
connects to the existing pool equipment. Much more important
than a Jag problem!

The original message included these comments:

If the toe out remains with the radius arms detached, I think it
rules them out.
That leaves one or both swing arms. Do you have a pair tht are
known to be straight? Perhaps careful measurement and comparison
might reveal the culprit.
At least for the moment, I don’t see a relation of the slightly off
center steering wheel. Not so good a sign as to the alignment shop.

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17

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

Went to my local front end shop today. They have worked on
the '71 Jag in the past, but the car is older than all but
two of
the guys working there.

Fortunately, the Mgr has been there a long time and is
willing to oversee these types of jobs.

They backed it onto their rack, and determined both sides
are toe out 3/8’’. Since spec is 1/32’’ or less, my prior
1/4’’+/- on the drivers side is now changed with the
straightened frame. At least the deviation is the same from
side to side now = progress.

I will replace both swing arms/wishbones with all the
related washers, bearings etc from another rear end. David
Boger is going to supply them from his ‘‘large stock’’ of
parts.

It is too bad, but I just sold my SII parts car with
305/350, with complete front and rear end, for less than
these parts will probably cost shipped to me…

Then I will take it back for another ‘‘checkup’’, then
purchase two new rear tires.–
The original message included these comments:

My prime intent was to emphasise the center line as the reference for
each wheels toe - certainly not to critisise various DIY methods for
measuring suspension geometry. And I just wondered why an allignment

–
'71 XJ6 383/200R, '72 XJ6 LT1/700R,'74 XJ6 383/700R
Glendora, CA, United States
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18

Roger Mabry wrote:

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Mon 6 Aug 2012:

Went to my local front end shop today. They have worked on
the '71 Jag in the past, but the car is older than all but
two of
the guys working there.

Fortunately, the Mgr has been there a long time and is
willing to oversee these types of jobs.

They backed it onto their rack, and determined both sides
are toe out 3/8’’. Since spec is 1/32’’ or less, my prior
1/4’’+/- on the drivers side is now changed with the
straightened frame. At least the deviation is the same from
side to side now = progress.

Indeed, Roger…:slight_smile:

But toe out, and equal on both sides, is odd and unusual - both
whishbones suffering the same anomaly…hm…

It certainly explains tyre wear, and I would expect some handling issues
as well. Not that I really think so; this ‘toe-out’ would result from
the cage/diff being mounted some half an inch too far forward - which is
‘unlikely’…:slight_smile:

So I think your planned line of action is about as good as it gets…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)>I will replace both swing arms/wishbones with all the

related washers, bearings etc from another rear end. David
Boger is going to supply them from his ‘‘large stock’’ of
parts.

It is too bad, but I just sold my SII parts car with
305/350, with complete front and rear end, for less than
these parts will probably cost shipped to me…

Then I will take it back for another ‘‘checkup’’, then
purchase two new rear tires.

The original message included these comments:

My prime intent was to emphasise the center line as the reference for
each wheels toe - certainly not to critisise various DIY methods for
measuring suspension geometry. And I just wondered why an allignment

===================================================
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19

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Thu 9 Aug 2012:

Rear toe out usually equates to some pretty scary handling
especially on bumpy corners a little toe in is normally what
you want. Not much or any real adjustment on the rear end
3/8’’ is a heck of a lot something seems very wrong in your
car distorted rear cage from accident? Can’t think what
could cause this much misalignment!–
The original message included these comments:

But toe out, and equal on both sides, is odd and unusual - both
whishbones suffering the same anomaly…hm…

–
Keith Turner '79 XJ6 based Aristocat,
Swansea, United Kingdom
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20

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Thu 9 Aug 2012:

If David has a complete rear assembly at a reasonable price
I think I’d be tempted to go for that option something is
very wrong with the existing assembly.–
Keith Turner '79 XJ6 based Aristocat,
Swansea, United Kingdom
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