Peter wrote:
<Was he surprised, not even the same manufacturer - FA519 was the code
number.>
Yes, Wilmot-Breeden if memory serves.
Rick
On a related topic - I’m idling thinking about having an illegal leaping
cat fitted to the front of my SIII 1985 (which didnt come with one
origainlly), and since its illegal to have mascots on the front of cars
here in Victoria anyhow, I figure I may as well go the whole hog and hook
the leaper up to the car battery. That way if some fiend tries to trophy
it, they’ll grab a handful of hot cat for their pains 8*)
Gary Quinton
www.alphalink.com.au/~garyq
1985 XJ6 SIII Burgundy/Oatmeal
Gary, a 12V cat ain’t hot enough to fry a Pokemon’s eyebrow. You’ll need a
way of closing a circuit with the user that’s got at least the oompf of a
telephone ringer – 80V. Then you have to deal with the insulating effects of
shoes, pavement, etc. – a nice ground strap from the car frame isn’t enough.
What you could do is insulate the leaper from the hood and put at least a few
hundred V between the two, ideally of a high AC frequency, as in the sparking
gegaws sold at Sharper Image and science stores. Of course, you’d have to
remember yourself when polishing it. And, of course, any meaningful (to the
recipient) spark drawn will put pinholes in paint. {:o]
Alex
79xj6
Gary Quinton wrote:>
On a related topic - I’m idling thinking about having an illegal leaping
cat fitted to the front of my SIII 1985 (which didnt come with one
origainlly), and since its illegal to have mascots on the front of cars
here in Victoria anyhow, I figure I may as well go the whole hog and hook
the leaper up to the car battery. That way if some fiend tries to trophy
it, they’ll grab a handful of hot cat for their pains 8*)Gary Quinton
www.alphalink.com.au/~garyq1985 XJ6 SIII Burgundy/Oatmeal
Richard:
LONG—Real long.
The long story—by memory—from two months ago (and I have a bad memory):
Basic Keys/locks 101: I don’t know what you know about locks and keys.
Lock cylinders have two type thingies—pins or wafers—when you insert a
key, the key is cut such that the pins or wafers are aligned with what is
called the shear line so that the cylinder can be rotated. Go to
http://home.howstuffworks.com/lock-picking2.htm which explains this—and
explains how to pick a lock—which you will have to do.
Now that you know how locks/keys work, on to the xj6 III—my '83
in particular. First you have to remove the lock assembly. I used a Dremel
tool with a cutter to cut a groove into the two “bolts” that hold the lock
assembly in place—then rounded the blade of an 8" screwdriver to fit the
semi-half circle that I cut into the two screws.
lock assembly can now be pulled out. Remove the switch assembly.
Now my memory fades…squeeze the what was a round brass/copper (?) washer
that was squeezed around a shaft at the back of the lock to hold the
cylinder in place—you now have to “unsqueez” this washer to free the shaft
so the cylinder can be pulled out in the next step. The next step: You are
going to have to pick the cylinder to get it to turn about 30 degrees before
you can pull the cylinder out. You will have to remove a small strip
(metal) from the top of the cylinder that hold the pins and springs in
place—be very careful—VERY careful—ease the strip out the back of the
cylinder and let each spring very carefully ease out of each pin hole. If
you let this strip slip or you pull too rapidly, you will have little tiny
springs everywhere—maybe some of the “pin tops” too. Greatly lengthens
the time it takes to get this job done. Guess how I know. With the cylinder
out (lower half of pins still in), insert a blank key. Mark a piece of card
even with the part of the key that stops the key in the cylinder—make a
mark at the center of each pin hole. You will use this card to determine
where on the blank key to make your “cut”. At each pin position (go
slowly—you don’t want to cut too deep—hard to “uncut”) file a notch (use
a small round file) in the key blank until the pin drops down to the shear
line—with the cylinder out, this will mean the pin is even with the
cylinder you are holding in your hand. Then to the next pin. And the next,
etc. After this is done, insert the cylinder (with key in) back into the
housing—then drop the other half of the pins back into the same holes you
removed them from—then insert the springs—you will slowly slide the
small metal strip back over each spring—carefully hold the metal strip in
place until you can “stake” it back in place. By the way—I removed the
metal strip by removing the original “stakes” with a small file.
Making a key for the ignition lock is the hardest. If you can do that, you
can do the doors and trunk—do the trunk next. The trunk key will open the
doors—I’m not sure whether a key cut just for the door will open the
trunk. If you are lucky this same key will also open the gas tank locks.
But if not, the gas tank lock is the easiest to make.
You will need a lock picking set. The above link will tell you how lock
picking works.
I may have missed some small details or even reversed the order of some of
them—but basically your job is to take a lock apart until you get down to
the cylinder that holds the pins. Then file a key blank until the pins are
even with the top of the holes in the cylinder—the shear line—then put
everything back together.
Next time I have to do this, I will make detailed notes of the process for
each lock—I didn’t know anyone would be wanting to know how to do this.
Good luck!
Ken
“If I can’t fix it, it don’t get fixed”
1990 xj40 vdp
1983 xj6 III===================================================
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