[xj] Kiekert door locking riddle

Hello Jag Fans;

I have an xj6 Series III with the Kierkert door locks. This winter the
doors failed to lock when the key is used on the driver’s door. I thought
it might be a blown kiekert door lock module, and sure enough it was. But,
when I replaced it, I find that now only that the drivers door and the trunk
lock/unlock via the drivers door - nothing happens at the other 3 doors.

  1. Could it be that the other three doors are blown as well?

  2. I don’t think its the fuse, or the trunk wouldn’t lock/unlock, or is it
    on another circuit?

  3. My model year is 87, and I think I have only one fuse controlling this
    (no inline fuse) is this correct?

  4. If these locks are wired in parallel, and the trunk works, where should
    I check for the diconnected/loose wire?

Thanks for all your help.

Greg Perugini

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Greg: believe it or not, this can simply be a matter of lubrication. Have
you had the door panels off to lubricate the linkages? This procedure cured
a non-nctioning lock in my 88 Series III.
Gregory

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In reply to a message from Greg Perugini sent Sun 5 May 2002:

Hi Greg:
I also have an 87 XJ6 III with the same problem. Unfortunately, I
don’t have an answer to the problem, as I am looking for the same
help. However, if you purchased a new drivers door control module,
you should be aware that it needs to be adjusted correctly for all
doors to work,per the ROM. Basically it states:
Locate the door harness multiplug connector behind the drivers
lower kick panel. You will see a connector with orange/red and
orange green wires.
Connect a test lamp across the connector terminals going to the
module.
Set the outer door lock to FULL CLOSED position. Set the door lock
inner flap to FULL LOCKED position.
Move the control module by hand fully towards the lock assembly,
then carefully move the module slowly in the opposit direction
until the test light flashes momentarily, tightne the setscrews.
To check the settings move the door lock inner flap slowly to the
unlock position. If the setting is correct the lamp will flash
momentarily just before the flap reaches full travel. When the
flap is moved back towards the lock position, the lamp will flash
again just before the flap reaches full travel.
Also, you should be able to lock your trunk with the drivers door
but not unlock it, this must be done manually at the trunk.
All doors and trunk are on the same circuit and controlled by one
fuse (#15 - the passenger side fuse box.)
I see that your post is dated May5, sorry this reply is so late.
Hope this helps. If you found something else that fixed your
problem, I would be happy to hear from you.
Thanks, Paul–
Paul Moeseenko
Walton Hills/Ohio, United States
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In reply to a message from paul_moeseenko@core.com sent Thu 5 Sep 2002:

to Paul Moeseenko,
I didn’t see the first post on this subject and did not
hear the problem, but thought my experience with my 85
Sovereign might be of interest.
The Sov stopped locking electrically with the key but
would unlock with the key, and after stripping the door
panel and getting my hand to the trigger I found that
squeezing the unit in a particular way made it lock, and
upon removing it and its rubber cover I found an
intermittant connection at one of what I assume to be
capacitors. The poor connection was in the device itself
where the solid wire lead came out, and bending the lead
slightly restored the connection. So far it has continued
to work after this simple adjustment and reinstallation.
My 87 XJ6 has a different symptom in that the electric
lock-unlock works on all doors except the front passenger
door which refuses to unlock. After checking linkage
lubrication and adjustment with no results and thinking it
was in the passenger door solenoid itself, I swapped it with
the boot solenoid (which only needs to lock), but the result
was no change in operation. At least I made nothing worse
except my back from working overhead on the lid from inside
the boot. My next check will be the wiring from the door
solenoid to the unlock relay which, if memory serves, is
under the passenger side kick panel; perhaps there’s a bad
connection there that affects only the pasenger side. I’ve
found it a little more difficult to diagnose lock the system
since the voltage from the trigger to the relays is of such
a momentary duration. Does anyone know if it is possible to
test a door solenoid with direct 12v dc, or is damage to the
solenoid a likely result?–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Greg Perugini sent Sun 5 May 2002:
I also have an 87 XJ6 III with the same problem. Unfortunately, I
don’t have an answer to the problem, as I am looking for the same
I see that your post is dated May5, sorry this reply is so late.


Phil in Northwest Arkansas
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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