XJ needs to be moved after 20 years... help please

Fair enough. Then sort it out in Germany. On the other hand this is a bunch of money so it really depends on time.

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cancel culture…not

Yeah, I agree that’s the wisest course of action here. It might start – heck, it might start as-is – but you also might do lots of damage trying to get it started and driven up onto the trailer without a considerable amount of checking and prepping. If you fire it up and promptly spin a bearing or some such, you’ll kick yourself.

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Bienvenidos ombre,

Meine zwei Cent:
On the one hand I see no easy way of winching the car up that ramp with these two sharp corners.
On the other hand, to restart the car that sat for that long is indeed a big enterprise.
It’s up to you to decide what to do, but again I can’t see how you can get the car up there without a very complicated set-up if not under it’s own power. And it’s a heavy car.

Being stored in a controlled and humid free environment is very good news and the engine bay looks very decent. No signs of water ingress or oxidation. Chances are that your engine is as good inside as it looks from the outside.
Brakes might need work, but you just want to take it up the hill.

If you try to restart it follow the advices already given.
Drain the fuel,
Change the oil, filter and coolant,
Put some oil on the cylinders and let it sit for a day
If you can, remove the cam cover to check and put some oil.
Manually turn the engine (with spark plugs removed).
Then try with the starter (with the fuel pump disconnected) and hopefully you will have lubricated the bearings enough for it to start safely.
My biggest fear is that your fuel pump and injectors will be gummed up with varnish from the 20 years old fuel. The fuel pump is easy and inexpensive, but the injectors will most probably need a professional cleaning.

As I think that you don’t have the time right now to learn everything from the beginning, you should definitely find an experienced mechanic to help.

Good luck!

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I‘m thinking he knows what’s to be done reasonably well and a towing service is called in quick. I was thinking of a pickup truck that lifts the front wheels and pulls the Jag up and around those corners. Those can go around corners pretty well. If the pump doesn’t run or the injectors are gummed up (maybe the cold start injector) it’s a no start and not much time lost because those towing guys are always ready to tow something.

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Might be a goo thing. Easier to control, sans brakes. Which in my view is likely. I hope the wheels turn and the calipers are not corroded shut!! And, that indeed, you can get them to hold air long enough to get aboard the trailer…

Hands winch, power winch or even a mere come along to get it up the hill. The tow trxk guy can do that nicely. Much skill at angle pulls using a snatch block!!!

Carl

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Tow truck operators generally laugh at such challenges.

Especialy if they have a big rotator. Straps on, Extend the boom, Hook up the white and blue winches lift and turn if necessary!!!

Watched one “fly the Eagle”. Big 40 passenger Eagle school bus. Rotater, aka Tator" Hoisted and flipped it. set it back unharmed…

Hello everyone. Thank you so much for all of your help. Being a new member the forum did not allow me to post anything for 20 Hours. Sorry about that. I think I have normal rights now :slight_smile:

I do not have a air compressor here, but wanted to get started so I got the tools set out of the trunk and jacked up the car. Took one tire at the time off and drove it to the next gas station for some air. I put them on 2.2 bars like the manual says and reinstalled them. Tires and nuts came off without a hitch and everything was very easy. I think one of the nuts on the back left wheel has some metal shaving in it or is a bit stripped. I decided not reinstall it. It was the only tire where more force was needed to get the nuts loose. So the car is back on tires. Will see how long they hold up air but for now it looks promising. While I was under there I snapped some more pictures of the underside of the car. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Thanks again!

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**
It all depends on how much work and time you are prepared to engage in at the old place. Ideally, you can do everything mentioned by other listers where you are - the drive the car to its new destination…:slight_smile:

However, if you prefer to use the tow truck solution; it’s highly advisable to ensure that the car will actually roll before to call the tow people. Dragging a car on stuck brakes etc up slopes, or whatever, may be detrimental to the car’s health - tow people aren’t exactly destructive, but may have other priorities…

Getting the engine going it’s a leap forward and likely manageable. And with a new battery an fresh oil, coolant checked (should be replaced before or later), and possibly petrol - no harm to the engine is unlikely.

The tyres are certainly flatspotted, old and in no shape for long drives - but will likely take you up the slope…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**

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I have very limited tools here and since I came here by airplane. So that is an issue. I would prefer to get it up without starting the engine. I will call around monday to see who can pull it up. But your point to make sure it “rolls” is a very good one.

I put it in “N” yesterday (automatic gearbox) without stepping on the break. I was suprised the gear shifter moved as all newer cars will only change gears if you step on the break. I tried pushing it but nothing moved. Then again it’s quite a bit heavier then my daily beat up VW polo that I can push around no problem. What do you guys suggest. I could make sure the tires spin freely. (I did not think of that while I was changing tires but I can do it again. no problem. Here to learn.

In the meantime. I took some pictures from the bottom.
What do you experienced guys see?

Pic1
Pic2
Pic3
Pic4
Pic5

Albeit a leaking input differential seal and a bit more surface rust than expected it looks pretty clean.
You should jack each corner and see if you can rotate each wheel. I would expect some initial resistance.
Mind you that you maybe have a Limited Slip Differential, so for the rear both wheels should be in the air.

Yes, working on that now. On the front tires looks like they are not stuck but turn very hard. I need both hands to rotate and it will certainly not spin. So I will have to buy break cleaner on Monday and spray it with that or is there a better suggestion?

Yea unfortunately that is what I thought too… Is any of whats on the picture a deal breaker (TÜV)?

If they turn that’s all you need for now.
It’s either the wheel bearings that are shot (not very likely), or the brakes dragging.

I don’t think break cleaner will do much.
You can try to push the brake pads in, lever with a screwdriver or something, but your brakes will need to be checked and serviced regardless.

No, the TÜV will not mind for that little rust.

great news. thanks :slight_smile:

Hi
There is the option of moving like a piece of machinery on some " trolley dollies".
Secured well to the wheels, it could be pushed in many different directions, i.e. Like the tight bends up the ramp.
These bits of equipment can also be " Hired" which would be ideal.
Attatching them to wheels, might be difficult but some ratchet straps, might very well work.
Just another option.
Thanks
Rob

It will go to N no problem. I can’t push mine reliably, sometimes. I use a wrench on a lug nut and turn a wheel which moved the car.

Tüv will be okay with that. Maybe ‚light corrosion on brake lines‘ but nothing serious or deal braking. Brake cleaner won’t help, maybe moving to rub off the corrosion. The only worry is that the brakes don’t open back up when pushed… but I don’t think they‘ll stick. Car looks fine. I side with Aristides.

Welcome XJFamilyJag - is there a more common name available? We’re a friendly bunch and old school names work better for communication.

Honestly, now that you’re at the car anyhow I wouldn’t be so conservative. Use a spare battery - maybe from your rental car - to check electric functions, most notably fuel pumps ticking. Open the fuel doors and smell whether the fuel is good or stale (clear smell of turpentine). Maybe additives 20 years ago kept the fuel alive as unlikely as it may appear. Finally pull the spark plugs and try to turn over the engine from the v-belt. If everything has gone well so far - why not attempt a start?

Once the engine runs you can check the p/s and the brakes. The hand brake is mechanical anyhow. You can try it out even without engine power and check whether it will hold the car on that ramp. In any case hold some massive beams available to keep the car from rolling backwards …

Best thing you can do is call David, offer him a free flight and stay in Spain after Corona, pay for the SNG bills of items he’ll deem necessary and drive a technically fit car back to Aasee!

Good luck with your family car

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

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