I know, I just wish we had the time, need to be in Florence on Thursday afternoon. But I will return with the E-type, and take the XJ6C back home.
Regarding the bonnet, on my Series 3, obviously with the springs, I just firmly push it and it slams shut and locks nicely. On my friend’s DD6 coupe I have to do as the manual says and gently push from the grille as well, or one of the locks will not latch. That’s an unrestored car, although steering hs been changed from right to left.
Cheers!
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I think the first step is to check pin alignment, Max - it sounds like the pins do not align properly with the striker plate aperture.
The conic end of the pins are mate up with the striker plate pushing it back to allow the pint to enter. You could also try pushing back the striker plate to ensure it is not binding - lubrication may be needed as mentioned by others. Using the normal closing procedure as described by Robin exerts quite a shock force on the pin/plate, but pushing down at the bonnet corners should easily close the bonnet without pulling the handle. And certainly without much pressure…
To me the gap between bonnet and body is a bit too large - implying the bonnet is not fitted properly rearwards. Which, from its ‘original’ position, may leave pins misaligned. Adjusting the pins right/left and fore/aft means force to bend bonnet metal at the captive nuts - which really should be minimal with the body fitted to specs…with the usual reservations about POs…
Without the damping effect of the main bonnet springs, it may be prudent to close the bonnet half way before dropping it?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
The bonnet is as it was, maybe it can go a little further back, sure. Dropping it from half height without springs might just get it to close. I would DEFINITELY NOT bend anything since it has to fit the way it came off.
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Still, David; the difficulties described means some action is required - something is plain wrong…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
We can’t tell. Nor can he, so he will play around with it and find the solution. All he really needs to know it that he has to grease it and slam it shut, not drop it the last four inches.
I have no direct experience of this model but I know from cars I have owned and have removed and replaced the bonnet that it has to line up absolutely correctly - there is virtually no tolerance at all and from the photo (I repeat I don’t know this car) it looks like the bonnet should be further back.
Grease the striker plates by all means, but as the release lever works without requiring excessive force I don’t think this is the problem area.
Replacing the bonnet on my Daimler V8-250 recently it wouldn’t shut even though, looking from the outside of the car it looked spot on. Luckily you can see the underneath of the striker plate from underneath the car and doing so showed it to be about 2 millimetres out. After this adjustment it shut (and opened) beautifully.
Don’t bend anything.
There is really only one correct way to close the bonnet:
See to it that the lock and the pins are greased and aligned properly.
Then stand in front of the car, lift on the grille and let the bonnet hit a home run…
Doesn’t work well with bonnets that consist mainly of bondo though… 
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Again, David - with the bonnet down, a firm pressure on the corners should lock it - without using the opening handle…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Yes certainly. A firm push, not a RR door closing click but a BMW kind of push.
Dutch-Cat is correct AFAIK, it is certainly what 2 professional marque/model specialists have separately told me
Pushing on the bonnet itself might cause dents…
Verzonden vanaf mijn Galaxy
-------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------
When I first got my Series 2, I was instructed that the proper way to close the hood/bonnet was to stand in front of the car, hands on both headlight eyebrows and vigorously Lift with Confidence, causing the hood to go over center, centered on the car, and the weight and inertia caused it to close Positively.
I have always done this, and it closes properly Every Time.
Even after I had to remove the hood for extensive front end/radiator work and re-installed it.
This operation has the added benefit of keeping hand./finger prints off the paint.
(’;’)
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Which proves the pins were correctly adjusted - another point is of course that the bonnet opens with the handle, ditto…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Busy buys with University so I have to force myself not to go play with the Jag… But I did take home some stuff… so I can do it at night when I have a minute or two… These 2 front brake calipers were quite rusty. And after a good clean up I rebuild them with new pistons. Now they are great living room decor next to my orchids.
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Show the orchids, Max - please…!
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Great work Max, as good as new…!
But you must paint them or they will rust again.
I used Hammerite, from what I’ve read it apparently holds much better than regular paint and much less expensive than caliper paint.
They are painted (unless you mean the orchids)!
My aluminium paint is looking very good after ~2500 km.
So well done that I couldn’t tell…!
Haha. It is ZinkPaint. I really like this stuff. But brake fluid does take it off. So I have a few spots to touch up.
