Since I painted the whole engine bay all of the lines were removed at one point. So there was no liquid in them. I figured since a bunch of fluid was pushed out after pumping the air would have been out. May there is another problem maybe I just did it wrong. I think it is to early to tell before I haven’t figured out the rear end nipple.
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Of course not. I just changed brake disks and pads. I know different animal. My daily driver is acting up as well. Soon I will be without any working car. Jeeez!
What do you have as a daily driver and what is the problem with it?
It is my moms really ugly seat Altea XL that seems to make a clunking noise while turning the steering wheel but only while driving not while parked. I jacked her up and wheels have no play in any direction. kind of impressive for a 15 year old car actually. All looks clean. But it does not sound healthy. Maybe CV joint but who knows. I can’t have 2 project cars. seriously!
Just an “off the wall” suggestion here. On my motorcycle, I can self bleed the brakes by tying the brake lever back to the handlebar. This leaves pressure in the system, but valves open for the air to slowly rise back into the master cylinder. It generally takes a couple of days, as the bleed holes are tiny, but every now and then you will see a tiny pinhead sized bubble appear in the m\c. Is this a viable technique to try, jam the brake pedal down somehow? It might be bleeding slowly while you are doing other things.
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The problem with using the pedal for bleeding is the limited delivery of fluid from the mc, Max - delivering, say half fluid ounce, it also sucks an equal amount back when the pedal is released. The amount may not be enough to actually force air out at a bleed nipple - it depends a bit on the actual routing of the lines/hoses and where the air then accumulates. And with the pedal released or pushed there is no continuous flow of fluid to the lines from the reservoir…
Take your set-up with a ‘U’ bend, with a bottle at one (‘vent’) upstroke end - and some air in the other (mc) end. You pump the pedal, forcing fluid in - but not enough to pass air past the bottom of the ‘U’. Pure fluid will enter the bottle, but when pedal is released an equal amount will be sucked back into the mc - leaving the air unmoved. Or even worse; air rising in the incoming fluid might be sucked back into the mc…
Mind you; I’m not saying this is happening, the general layout is designed to avoid creating such air traps - but it illustrates a possible problem when starting with a largely empty set-up. One way is to ensure that individual components and line sections are filled. Another is to apply pressure to the reservoir; with the pedal released and the bleed valves open, fluid is forced through the system - though the flow is restricted by the small vent holes in the reservoir. Yet another is to apply a pressurized container to the mc connections…etc, etc…
Of course, other causes of apparent failure to bleed cannot be excluded either. But it is imperative that the bleed valves can be opened and closed - and flow of air or fluid, when pressurized, is observed…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Air traps. That is exactly the problem I had when I was trying to bleed the clutch on my BMW E36. I bought an eezibleed pressure bleeder and have used it ever since. It is a lot easier and you don’t need a helper to pump the pedal.
Having said that. On my x300 I had my 5 year old boy pump the pedal. We had replaced the clutch master cylinder and the eezibleed made a big mess when the cap on the bottle cracked and brake fluid went everywhere. The eezibleed needs replacing every 10 years.
Generic brake bleed comments:
- pressure bleed. An adapter cap for the opening on the MC resevir. The device applies a modst pressure. no need to pump the pedal. carack bleed screw at the furthest point from the mc. use a tube n the screw. alow didvharge in to a glass of BF. You can see the bubbles… repeat till no bubbles.
2 use a mini vc Apply vacumn at the furthest screw. Same as pressure but in reverse/
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yes in one case i did find that doing the quic and drty bleed wrked with the engone runnng when it did not on the n o engne effort.
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Bleed the m aster on the bench or in the car I did have a kit for that two laxtic lines and fittings. Screw in to both ports Put the hose in to the resevr. Pump the peda or use a plunger t operate the mc, if on the bench. You should see bubbles in the fuid.
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during any of the rocesesses make sure the resevoir is alwyas full failure will introduce air in to the circuit.
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persostence pays here as usual
Crl
Max,
don’t worry, you’re well under way! 24 years just take their toll, even if spent in sunny Spain. Any kind of fastener may and most times will be either corroded or brittle, and so time really is an issue … inasmuch as you probably better take Caramba and one week before any attempt of removing anything, sad as it may appear.
Even with the rear brakes a suitable wrench, Caramba and time should allow you to ultimately succeed. As for the wrench, try to contact old Jaguar DIY owners - usually they have made up the correctly twisted wrenches.
Just keep the faith - focus on your finals, then the Seat steering, then the Jag. A silver anniversary for the re-run might be appropriate!
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
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Nothing much to report just really happy that I can go outside walk for 1 minute. Open the garage and see my Jag whenever I like. Sit in it… Smells so good! Amazing. Can’t wait to drive it.
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Max,
many moons ago when I was still a student I “restored” an old Ford in the indoor car park of the house where I was living. There was no useful light and I had to hold a small MagLite between my teeth once the camping light was out. As I couldn’t lock away anything I had to either take all the bits and pieces into my room or leave it inside the car. Still I was able to strip the cabin, seal all the body welds successfully (no more water in the carpets!) and rust-proof floor and sills good enough for the following eight years.
So, yes, I think you can do something with your new garage even though space is limited in your garage. Yet, you seem to be done with the big stuff and can focus on the small bits. It might be helpful to be able to just go down once a night to pour some Caramba on one thread or the other for a week before you get back for a serious job on Saturday afternoon.
BTW, I used a large number of small boxes I placed in the trunk of the car to keep track of the many parts I removed over winter and it worked a charm when putting everything back together even without ROM etc.
As always, good luck and enjoy the week end!
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
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I‘ll drive up again and we‘ll have a look at the IRS. If there are bolts that aren’t drenched in oil I will head back home. 
For bolts and nuts I sometimes use ziplock bags, take a picture of what goes where and write the current date and content onto the bag. That way I can easily find the picture and know where stuff was.
Roger! … … … 
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I hope so… I think the IRS is the last big one and then it should be just attacking the rust for inspection TÜV.
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O.k. That’s really some big stuff left … anyhow, good luck with it! Only yesterday I found some new oil stains under the diff of the Spitfire:-( … not what was on my plan for the next two months.
Great that David will make it again to Münster and work with you! If he hadn’t already a great SI, that would get him a wonderful wedding car, I guess … but there is a time for every season;-)
Good luck with the diff
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
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Just keep in mind the detail of bleeding the brakes, Max - without that; other work is wasted. Though removing the rear cage will of course give easy access to the rear bleed screws…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Yes, I told him to wait with destroying the bleeder screws until we have better access to break them off more efficiently. And bleeding the brakes can wait until it’s back together.
I‘m looking forward to doing the handbrake. I think I‘m getting good at doing these…
Rust is not a job for me, but I think we can get the other stuff done in a week.
You’re of cause right, David - it’s just my priority of getting the car drivable; ASAP and with minimum work…
The bleed screws may not brake - and the rear end may be in working condition…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
I think there was absolutely NOTHING in working condition on this car…
Love it! and 20 more.
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