Yes, I bet colder temperature was a factor as well. I watched some YouTube videos and my plan is to wet sand the area with 2000-5000 and then do a polish and see what I see how it turns out. I have already done the sanding. I am waiting on the polishing stuff that is in the mail. As usual I will let you all know. I am pretty happy with the color all things considered matching a 35 year old paint with the factory color code. I was expecting it be worse. Then again I have not seen it in the sun since there is a lack of that in this countryâŚ
I have already done some insurance shopping⌠Home stretch!
2000-5000?! Start with 400 wet or even lower if you have significant orange peel. 400 is usually coarse enough. The sponges work great. You can go over a thousand and it will make polishing easier but I donât think I ever had anything close to 5000! Watch edges and corners. I know you know that already but just donât touch them too often.
I havent read what sort of paints you are using or HVLP or LPLV guns, but one way around many issues is to buy a cheap gun with interchangeable nozzle and needle sizes that come with it, they allow you to lay down various paints in different situations
I was using a el chepo HVLP with a 1.3mm nozzle and this is a solvent based 2K Paint without a clear because I believe the original color does not have a clear on it eitherâŚ
I know the bumper is not going to fit perfect as you now canât get it quite as tight as is was designed. They are attached and it was a very inexpensive fix compared to buying them new.
Thanks. Based on my research most people go 1500-5000. I skipped the 1500 to be conservative. I will let you know how it works out. If it does not polish out I can always go back and do 1500 but 400 seems very coarse to me. I do not know if I could polish that out at all. I am doing this for the first time so I may be completely wrong⌠Of course YMMV
You can still machine away some rubber when itâs really cold outside
Of course you go finer than 400 but donât start with 2000 for orange peel⌠I start with 80 for the bondo and then smooth it out, and 240/400 for the paint if itâs not evenâŚ
As I said before there were some rust areas on the fuel line. It looked very crispy but it turns out it also had a lot of dirt on it by the wheels. So it turns out there were not as bad as I thought.
I scuffed the line a bit to remove the surface rust and then used some rust converter on it.
I also drilled out a bunch of the line clips where the rivets had failed. I then went ahead and used new rivets on them.
If you look closely my rivet puller is a bit to wide for the clip so I used a nut on the rivet head and I had to grind the nut to fit the clip as well. Worked very well.
Here is a shot of the wet sanding. I know we disagree my very fine sand paper. I think a little coarser than 1500 would have been OK as well. I did what this guy on Youtube said⌠and he has 9 million subscribers. He must be something right!
My biggest problem area is this right here. It did not do this on all edges. Just on this one. I looks like the old paint is flaking off. So I can sand it away and make is smooth but then when I polish the area it just flakes off a little bit more and the transition is not smooth any more. I tried sanding this area twice and it kept happening to me. To the best of my knowledge Jaguar did not use clear coat during the late 80s so I do not really understand why this is flaking off.
The result after a little bit of polishing is pretty good. You can clearly see that the old paint is much more of a mirror like finish than the new. I think somebody who has a little more experience could probably get it better. For me at this point I am going to leave it as is and return to it once I have a little more experience with the polishing pads.
According to my parents there was no respray⌠But the paint suggests otherwise. I have no idea if this is a clear coat flaking or if this is how old paint behaves
He was fixing orange peel out of a spray can after an imperfect paint job. He went 1500-5000 and then 2 rounds of polishingâŚExactly what I did here. Only exception that he was also using a clear coat.
I am by no means an expert in any of this but it seems like you should use the finest sandpaper you can get a good result with because the more you take off the more paint you are taking off forever. I understand that the ânew paintâ given the fact that it has orange peeling can be hit with coarser paper to flatten it. But it seems when you dry it and you get a uniform haze the paint is âflatâ. The transition to the old paint is tricky because I do not know how thick it is and how much I have to work with. 1500 gave me a pretty decent result all things considered. It is mostly flat after sanding. It looks ok. I can always go back and hit it again. I think it would be ill advised to hit it with something like 400 at the risk of not being able to sand it out. If I were to try again I would go a little lower, maybe 1000. Just my two centsâŚ
