I am not exactly sure what it said the first time around on the highway. It did come on for a few seconds on the slow way home after that but that was always in idle stopped at a light. By the end of the of on the last mile I noticed that it was building pressure slower when getting off the light. But it had 3 on gauge under load all the way home.
on the highway before this event I took a Picture at 3400 and 140 it has close to 5 on the gauge.
Nah ā¦ you did nothing wrong, which doesnāt exclude that something is wrong, but shouldnāt disturb your sleep.
Now, just from looking at your dashboard, Iād say that you should forget about that 88Ā°C t-stat. Water temp looks just perfect for a ride at 3500 RPM. Maybe you get an infrared thermometer and can verify temperature at the t-stat housing.
Voltage seems to be at the low side though (you should see close to 14 V) - and low voltage may cause all kinds of misbehaviour. Take Carlās advice and make up a cigar lighter plug for your DMM and check onboard voltage. It is worth it!
As for the oil pressure: your guage counts bar, mine counts psi. IIRC, there is a limiter to 60 psi (4.14 bar) sitting in the oil filter base. 5 bar would be clearly too much. Maybe the limiter is shot, the oil pressure went too high with high speed and RPM and the oil found its way out of the system ā¦
3 bar is over 40 psi and more than enough.
Maybe you start your Sunday with some research on the oil pressure limiter in the SIII cars - they are different from SII cars! -, but I think you will master this issue as well:-)
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
[quote]
I had adjusted the idle again. Back down to 750 and in gear it would go down to 550 with my foot on the break. I had been working the transmission screw slowly and it was coming down to 45ish and when accelerating EXTREMELY slow it would actually shift at the 30ish that it is supposed to.
[unqote]
The box is very sensitive to pedal position, Max, as it is to cable adjustment. āAcceleratingā implies more pedal than required - to upshift at 30 kph you just need enough pedal to maintain 30ish. More pedal means later upshifts - ālight throttleā sort of means āno accelerationā.
Correct cable adjustment also means that the shifts are dead smooth/imperceptible - there should be no jerking. Main point is that with correct adjustments and everything works as they should; shifting points are spot on and and the shifting is dead smooth.
To use the cable adjustment to correct shift points at the cost of rough shifting may just mask a problem. Which is why using pressure to adjust the cable is preferableā¦
The most likely cause of your high fuel consumption is the short trips taken - and possible enthusiastic driving. The consumption usually quoted is for steady cruising, not frequent change in speed - and certainly not idling in traffic. And incorrect cable adjustments does not helpā¦
[quote]
I have no idea when it started but for a few second while breaking and going down hill I got a red Oil alert. It turned off within maybe 15 seconds.Tunes off and I was now pretty much in emergency state.
[unquote]
The oil pump pick-up is at the rear of the sump, so going downhill, or braking causes oil to surge forward. With low(ish) oil level the pump may briefly suck air, and the warning light comes on very quickly - the gaugeās response is much slowerā¦
[quote]
So I shut her off went to get a drink and figured it should be more oil after I shut her off and let her sit for a bit. When I came back I actually found less oil on the stick
[unquote]
Which is somewhat odd - oil drains back into the engine when stopped. However, it is preferable to check oil levels with the engine stopped - with the engine running it is quite possible to misread the stick levelā¦
The markings on the stick are āmin/maxā, and nominally anything in between is OK. There is no need to fill to the āmaxā mark; the xk engine very quickly burns of the top pint or two - a total wasteā¦
With an unknown engine; regular oil level checks under identical conditions, preferably engine cold/before starting. This will give a consistent reading to asses possible leaks or consumptionā¦
There is always a quandary when two indicators differ - which do you trust. The oil warning lamp nominally comes on instantly when the pressure drops below some 5 psi - the gauge lags behind.
With low idle, waiting in traffic with the engine hot, it is not unusual for the warning light to flicker vaguely. It is not alarming - at low rpms the engine doesnāt need much oil pressure, and the sensor may just be on the high sideā¦
Also, the gauge will show such low pressure under similar conditions. As Jochen suggests; it does not come amiss to verify the dash gauge with an external oil pressure gauge - just to make sure the dash gauge reads true. And of course to check for leaks as he advises - though most well used xk engines leak to some extentā¦
You did exactly right and there is no reason for worrying - your experience is par for the course! Just keep and eye on the oil level until satisfied it doesnāt drop excessively fastā¦
You may also up the idle a bit to get rid of the warning lamp flicker. Jaguar specifies a minimum pressure of 40 psi at 3000 rpms - and excessive pressure is not good either, as Jochen rightfully points outā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
You may have already done this, however, if not, an item that I feel should be attended on any 30yr or older car, especially one that has sat, is the brake master cylinder seals and have the bore checked by a professional brake specialist
Eventually the seals fail, and this can mean no brakes
This is exacerbated by scum in the fluid, and its not unusual for the bore to need sleeving
The master cylinder is the most safety critical item in the system
The 3 rubber hoses should also be replaced if age is unknown, at least inspected externally
Calipers, have new seals and pistons, master has new seals, hoses are new. Had some trouble bleeding but I am very happy with his brakes now. It was necessary to do all this.
My S1 has the original master which works like new but I consider that the exception.
That was not the problem. Just low on oil.
Max claims he screwed up the pressure port on the transmission so he has to adjust it so that the 2-1 shift when rolling out is just perceptible - and then a little less. That should work.
I have had to rebuild every part of my brake system apart from some metal hoses
(I have a roll of cunifer pipe, and new front brake parts on hand, but have not yet installed them, but the original parts definitely need replacing soon)
The rear calipers are difficult, I did them when I rebuilt my IRS
Of course I also had to do a complete rebuild of my IFS and steering system
One might say I have successfully done corrosion proofing the āJaguarā wayā¦
Still kicking myself that I āneededā to clean the whole IRS and somebody was likeā¦ ānot really worth itā
Boy way he rightā¦!
Reminds me of my first "metrcā car. a 56 VW beetle. i had no metric tools at the tie. yet, i managed to swap in a transaxle. As i recall, 1/2ā and 9/16 SAE tools fit most fasteners. for the others, vice grips or Crescent wrench. Never ordinary pliers.
in the instant case i vote Helicoil.
Happy to be # 1500 to post;-)
Your leak seems to be around the oil filter with the oil driven rearward by the air. And Iād still check oil pressure. On a cold engine it goes up to 60 psi, then limited. On a hot engine oil pressure remains around 40 psi at anytime from 2500 RPM on.
Good luck and steam off the rear axle, to avoid oil getting on the brakes
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
Jesus! Looks like I took the XJ Forum by storm! Thanks for being part of it 
That is a good idea. But I can just check with a multi meter at the battery what I am seeing right? However even on short trips that I had taken I had never experienced a low battery. Except for when I messed with the main lights for hours. So that was to be expected.
Correct me if I am wrong but I do not think there is a āvalveā that opens or closes. Isnāt the oil cooler always āopenā
It isnātā¦ it sits just right. Well, a little low but probably a bad connection to the meter. There will be more volts at the battery!
I think the cooler is not controlled so always open. But not sure.
Well the good news is I found the leak and this was not anything I did wrong. This is just old material giving in.
I cleaned everything put on a new oil filter. Put in 7 liters of brand new Oil. Turned on the engine for less than a minute and that is the result. I may also have a secondary issue because I was not getting oil pressure on the gauge at all so I shut the engine off right away. Nevertheless it was enough for this leak to show at very low pressure if any. So you can imagine how much shot out of there with healthy oil pressure under load.
The bad news is looking at suppliers this is a very expensive part. Also I know for a fact that the hoses did not want to come off at the oil cooler. I was never able to separate them while the engine was out. So this is going to be a real pain in the behind to fix. I have another set that are also stuck to the other oil cooler. However that oil cooler is leaking. So yea great!
Take the fittings to a hydraulic shop. They will charge you maybe 50ā¬ or so for the hose.
And tell them it is for your tractor. They will refuse to make you a replacement if you canāt convince them itās not for a car.
Great job Max, again,
good you found the leak! - Iām still a bit more concerned about your pressure issues though. With cold engine oil OP should rise upon start immediately and - at least under load - rise up to the pressure relief valveās limit.
Could you try and source a halfway trustworthy manometer for the oil pressure to get a true picture and find out whether your oil pressure sender for the idiot light, the oil pressure sender for the guage or the guage are just shot at some point and make you chase red herrings?
As for the hose, try to find a tractor service shop. They know what they are doing about straightforward mechanics and have saved my ass a couple of times now. Just be very clear that they use the fittings you supply and the kind of hose you need or they will switch to metric and talk you into using adaptors and other kind of crap ā¦
Ahh, and regarding voltage: I prefer to be able to check on the DMM positioned on the co-pilotās seat exactly how voltage reacts to RPM or to accessories being switched on and off during operation. Also, internal voltage hikes due to a regulator misbehaving or maybe an intermittant change of resistance is easily discovered with the car on the road.
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
Oh Iām sure the wrong people will baulk. People in farming areas are the best.
My hydraulics shop is run by a total idiot, not friendly and not communicative, failed too but he didnāt destroy the fittings and told me to just use hose clamps instead of crimps. On the power steering! Turns out 80 bars of peak pressure is nothing to them. He was right, works. Having one of these hoses made with length and fittings provided should not be a problem at all.
But the gauge pictured showed pressure, Maxā¦?? By the way; when filter is changed it takes some seconds to fill it before pressure comes upā¦
That the voltmeter show less than 13V at those rpms is suspicious. Checking voltage with multimeter at the battery is more precise - and will react quicker to changing rpmsā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Frank
xj
Your post is #1489. Mine is #1500
