XJ needs to be moved after 20 years... help please

And there it is. Sorry Max but you are now a prisoner to the Jag.
WRT the bike riding, I can recall cycling to work in the UK during winter along a main trunk road, and falling off on the icy road, getting myself off to the side and a very short time later a truck/lorry came hurtling by.

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A very just reward for your very hard yards, Max!!

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/Z)

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It’s got you Max.

No way back now :smile::smile:

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Welcome in Jag-prison Max…the car has caught you forever now… :wink:

Regarding the coil issue:

I saw NGK have a coil for the 4.2 XK engine at a very reasonable pricing:

Might be worth a try…

Well I got a coil off off amazon and it was garbage. Not sure if NGK is much better but I think I’ll just drive it as is and once I safe up a few pennies get the Lucas one with the ballast and make it all era correct. I will also keep this bosh one for backup. I am not convinced this is the cause for the random roughness at idle anyway. But thanks for the tipp.

Hey there. Had a rough couple of weeks. When the chips are down I like to go play with the jag even if it is just for a couple hours at night. The INOP fuel gauge has been bugging me. So I figured before I do any damage to my car I would take the senders out of the parts car. They were stuck in there pretty good.

Looks like all of them were just stuck in position empty.
Pretty nasty!

Almost like new…

Here is a peak into my left tank. There was more fuel in there than I anticipated. Looked pretty clean although judging by the crap in the sender I assume there is a whole pile of gunk in the bottom of the tank. I think I have a leaking return valve… I have been running exclusively on the right tank because the switch tank causes the right to overfill. So Essentially I have a reserve tank in the left and can switch tanks and it will pump all of the fuel into the right. But that’s another issue.

Before I reinstalled it I tested them. The problem is that I mistakenly tried to get them unstuck by just using force to move the lever. Should have not done that! What I should have done instead is open the tabs and clean it out first. There was so much crap in there that if you move the lever against the stuff in there the little tap gets bent! So then you have to reshape and put it back to a position that works in the whole range. Kind of a pain the … if you are by yourself. Unfortunately I realized that after I had done 3 of the 4.

This is me playing with the them and trying to dial them in.

I don’t know if this a sender problem I have or if these are always really flaky but essentially if I shake the car by moving in the seat a a lot I can see the needle jump around and it takes a while for it to stabilize. I cant imagine the gauge to be correct while driving. I am really confused. Were these gauges accurate at all? or are the super jumpy?

Only having one car really sucks. Now for the time being I don’t have a car until I put it all back together…Luxury problems I suppose.

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Thanks for sharing, Max!

I bet most of us - certainly myself - would have tried to cut corners the same way and just “give it a try” …

As for the guage: I know Jaguar changed make and functioning from SII to SIII, but I doubt this affects the way the needle is hinged. I never saw my tank or water temp needles bounce in any way relative to acceleration of the instrument - I mean, they are supposed to stay put even at 0.8g in serious driving:-).

So, maybe your bounce is just the bounce from the total “off” position and disappears with power on?

Good luck with your other issues!

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

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There usually is some sort of filtering of the sensor reading. In modern cars it is done electronically. In older cars I have seen bimetallic instruments as fuel gauges which have an inherent filtering characteristic.

I am not sure how it is done in an XJ.