Hey this is Sergio, ive been following for quite some time now the Xj6 and i found one in my area (Finland) that seems to be in a great state, and a good price. Ive always had “normal” cars, for focus, Mazda 3, mb c class, pick up trucks.
Now for sometime ive been looking to get a Jag xj, it would be for 2-3 time uses a week for 20 km a time, how to take care of the car, what happens on winter with this classics, etc. I had never owned a classic car before im completely new about all this, but feel quite excited about finding a community that shares this enthusiasm
Im really looking for advices, tip, directions here. Hopefully and sorry if someone find this post boring , but i guess i have to start somewhere.
Thank you and have a great day
ps the exact model i found is this one
Jaguar XJ6 1970 2.8 manual
I live in Florida so I can’t hep you on anything related to winter except that I lived in the UK and Canada for years and I know cars of that era do not like salt and mild winter temperatures. Deep cold may be better.
If you can manage it, make sure it gets a decent long drive every so often. These cars seem to work best when they are used often and get long distance exercise.
Hi Sergio and welcome.
If you want to keep the car it will need to be stored in the winter.
The XJ is not that keen in snow and the salt will kill it.
As Tony says, Rust is the most important.
Second is interior.
Electrickery can be a issue…
All mechanical stuff is relatively easy and parts are available.
Hi Sergio,
buy Peter Crespin‘s buying advice book. Follow the tips, look for rust that can’t be fixed and make sure to drive the 2.8 hard; it’s a Series I so if decent you will be very happy with it.
It is not perfect in winter and I wouldn’t want the SI to rust, but the SIII I own is used in the winter, gets some grease on critical areas but some rust is inevitable.
Interior is important and for electrics and mechanicals this forum will help.
These cars profit from three things: drive them at least once a week or so, always get them hot and at least the occasional long distance, and good care.
don’t get worried about the engine. A SWB car (all SI 2.8l are SWB) with manual transmission (is it with overdrive?) is an agile beast. The small block wants to rev. The poor reputation of these engines stems from burnt pistons caused by carbon build up. It can be avoided by regular committed driving.
Be aware that even the smal block is a big chunk of iron with a lot of water and oil in it. While water temp will climb within minutes, oil temp takes like 20 minutes - not idling or (sub-)urban traffic, but serious driving. So your 20 km stretch would almost certainly be less than ideal for the car.
As for winter use: there used to be block heating units available and they were widespread in Scandinavia. Either your car has one or you can get your hands on an original one. There may even be modern sources of such parts. I’d get one for sure.
Heating is not as vigourous as the amount of fuel used up by these cars would have you believe. In particular roof insulation is critical. If the original foam headliner has been tossed out and the headlining material has been glued directly to the metal you’ll lose lots of heat through the roof.
Driving on snow with the manual transmission RWD is no more problematic than on your C class. Put some sand bags in the trunk if you feel like it or use studded tires if you’re allowed to do so.
Rust is a big issue on these cars as the body structure is complex and repair in critical areas difficult and expensive. Deep cold and no salt is uncritical though if you rust proof the car - either waxoyl or grease (Mike Sanders etc). Many of the best original cars from the 1950s to 1970s on the German market are imported now from northern Scandinavia. Slush and salt is hell though. You won’t be able to protect your car against it - just avoid exposure.
Other than that: drive that car as spirited as your local regulations permit. It is a four-door grand tourer. Many systems on the car follow the rule “use it or lose it”, e.g. electical components such as power windows, switches in general, horns, but also brakes.
Great car…If no rust, JUMP ON IT.
Holed pistons were common on 2.8 but all these years later?
The manual will be fun, I had a swb 72 , a car way ahead of its time.
Just check for rust!
Good luck
GTJOEY1314
To help with the grime, salt and debris from driving in wet conditions, always use one of those automatic car washes that will also do the underside of your car. Then use an air hose to remove all the moister possible from the nooks and crannies. But it’s the chemicals and debris in the water that causes the main rust issues.
Good luck and great choice of automobile.
Phillip
We dont have snow where I live, but its a marine environment.
Any vehicle that has been used to reverse boats into the lake for example will be rusted out underneath, if like me, you live beside the Ocean, the salty air attacks around the screen seals etc.
I am on a US based forum for my Jeeps, and I simply cannot believe the rusty sh!theaps that people are allowed to drive around in. The topside looks great but the underside is rusted completely beyond repair
I always make a detailed inspection of the underside, and make notes