[xj] Playing Doctor with my '87 SIII VDP make me stall free!

Okay I’ve posted the AFM, the Battery and the Bellows. Tomorrow is D-day
for the battery its 12 volts or its chuck time for the bugger.

I’ve clean the battery better than any show car ( a two hour job). Using
Baking soda, Brillo, a tooth brush (old), WD40, rust proofing and a
vaccum cleaner. I scrubbed the terminals with baking soda along with the
connectors and the battery. No acid left anywhere! I’ve also found a
loose mystery wire that I’ll post later. I checked the ground to the
battery and its in excellent condition. I’ve checked the Red battery
lead to its connection and it looks good. I checked the water level and
its the same as 3 weeks ago. I even cleaned and lubed all moving parts
that hold the battery in place. I’ve rust proofed the base of the
battery and will paint it if this battery gets the boot. Before rust
proofing I even cleaned the ledge where the battery sits (vacuumed). I
got a clean, tight connection on both posts free of rust and even
cleaned the caps.

What did I get for all my effort, what else the radio code warning
(again), a 12.5 volt Jag reading. At night time it’s 11.5v (driving)
and a 12.5v idle readings. I am getting hotter than my Jag engine!

Here’s where I need your help. Tomorrow I’ll test the posts with the
engine off with a voltage meter. But how can I test:

  1. Each cell in the battery to determine if I have a short or dead cell?

  2. The current from the alternator to the battery?

  3. The voltage in and to AFM?

  4. The Bellows that connect the AFM to the throttle switch for vaccum
    leaks?

  5. Any other hoses that run from the Air Filter to the AFM to the
    Throttle Switch to the
    Engine for vaccum leaks?

What other electrical connections, parts or vaccum hoses can I check to
rid me of this problem? Remember all I need is a little instruction
although step by step and I’ll get the job done. I’m not dumb just
determined to fix the problem. If someone know one or two items post it
to me.

I know you guys are good and I tell everyone about how good you are.
They can’t believe what I can do to my Cat and I give all the credit to
Jag-Lover.org. Not one of my friends has ever seen me work on a car. My
friends are the owners other cars Benz, Bm, Fiat, Accura and a few other
american cars. They all want to know if there’s a place like this for
them. To that I respond I hope so.

Sat. I’ll have my new Michelin VR-rated tires and I want my Cat to
shine. Friday nite right in front of the Pub she sputtered across the
intersection (how embarrassing) into the parking lot. My brother a
former Benz owner is getting a Honda Accord. I don’t want to go to the
Pub in that. I’m a Jag man all the way. Help me keep america beautiful a
Jag in the parking lot of every Pub and out on the prowl every Fri. and
Sat. night will accomplish that.===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
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“S.B.G” wrote:

Okay I’ve posted the AFM, the Battery and the Bellows. Tomorrow is D-day
for the battery its 12 volts or its chuck time for the bugger.

I’ve clean the battery better than any show car ( a two hour job). Using
Baking soda, Brillo, a tooth brush (old), WD40, rust proofing and a
vaccum cleaner. I scrubbed the terminals with baking soda along with the
connectors and the battery. No acid left anywhere! I’ve also found a
loose mystery wire that I’ll post later. I checked the ground to the
battery and its in excellent condition. I’ve checked the Red battery
lead to its connection and it looks good. I checked the water level and
its the same as 3 weeks ago. I even cleaned and lubed all moving parts
that hold the battery in place. I’ve rust proofed the base of the
battery and will paint it if this battery gets the boot. Before rust
proofing I even cleaned the ledge where the battery sits (vacuumed). I
got a clean, tight connection on both posts free of rust and even
cleaned the caps.

What did I get for all my effort, what else the radio code warning
(again), a 12.5 volt Jag reading. At night time it’s 11.5v (driving)
and a 12.5v idle readings. I am getting hotter than my Jag engine!

Here’s where I need your help. Tomorrow I’ll test the posts with the
engine off with a voltage meter. But how can I test:

  1. Each cell in the battery to determine if I have a short or dead cell?

  2. The current from the alternator to the battery?

  3. The voltage in and to AFM?

  4. The Bellows that connect the AFM to the throttle switch for vaccum
    leaks?

  5. Any other hoses that run from the Air Filter to the AFM to the
    Throttle Switch to the
    Engine for vaccum leaks?

See my post in the last coupla days…If the battery voltage
drops below 10.8V during initial cranking ( from fully
charged ) it is probably no good. If you are not getting at
least 13.5V charging at any time, the battery is not getting
properly charged, period. You would need a clamp-on ammeter
to check charging current, most people don’t have that in
their toolbox. 13.5V is the chemical threshold level for
putting energy back into a lead acid based 6 cell system.
BTW the charge level for a 36 volt 18 cell system is 42
volts! The company I used to work for has been developing
starting packs for the 36v system for some time. these will
be slightly smaller than the existing battery but able to
put out enough power to crank the engine. and working on a
42V system moves it into a more dangerous voltage realm…–
Art Blackwell
Denver, CO

NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS…old one dropped too many
e-mails…

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Spaceballs "


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===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/xjfaq.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

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S.B.G. et al,

1> Get a Battery Hygrometer, a turkey baster type of device (about 2-3 dollars)
Follow the instructions to check the specific gravity of each cell.
In a good cell the all colored balls inside the hygrometer, will float,
poor cell some will float, bad cell they won’t float at all.

    Use Caution,  and Eye Protection !! Battery (sulfuric) Acid can blind,

and burn you.

2> You’ll need a clip on ammeter for this, (expensive)
…an auto electric shop, will do the test for a couple of bucks.

3> Here you need a voltmeter, available at RadioShack, (no affiliation) and
elsewhere,
for under $20.00. Digital types are easier to interpret readings from.

4> Remove the bellows, find a jar lid to fit one end,
clamp it in, to make a cup like affair.
Fill the bellows with water, manipulate the bellows
to reveal any leaks/ cracks in the bellows. Mark them,
dry the bellows, repair cracks with silicone sealer.
Cure, and Replace.
Start vehicle spray connection joints with water, and the idle should
remain constant.
If not, a vacuum leak is evident.

5> Start vehicle spray connection joints with water, and the idle should remain
constant.
If not, a vacuum leak is evident.

         Charlie
         Lumps Admin.
         Matawan, New Jersey,   USA
         83 XJ6 350 Vette eng TH700R4*************************

“The key to everything is patience. You get the chicken by
hatching the egg - not by smashing it.”
–Arnold Glasow

From: “S.B.G” atrue@courant.infi.net
Subject: [xj] Playing Doctor with my '87 SIII VDP make me stall free!

Here’s where I need your help. Tomorrow I’ll test the posts with the
engine off with a voltage meter. But how can I test:

  1. Each cell in the battery to determine if I have a short or dead cell?

  2. The current from the alternator to the battery?

  3. The voltage in and to AFM?

  4. The Bellows that connect the AFM to the throttle switch for vaccum
    leaks?

  5. Any other hoses that run from the Air Filter to the AFM to the
    Throttle Switch to the
    Engine for vaccum leaks?

===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/xjfaq.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.