I made some progress dismantling the 71 XK engine. Took off the intake
and exhaust manifolds, cam covers, disconnected the cams and removed the
head bolts (in proper order).
Ratchet wrenches are really a blessing for the exhaust and intake stud
nuts. Also, the ratcheting wrenches (the ones that slip around the nuts)
worked well in the tight spot where the bolt is partially up against the
manifold. Still there are two nuts on the exhaust manifold that required a
box wrench. And my $5 Harbor Freight stud removed worked well on a few
stubborn exhaust studs.
I had some trouble loosening the upper timing chain. After struggling for
1/2 hour, I took a steel rod, and while holding the dog in, I tapped the
serrated plate in a clockwise direction by placing the rod in one of the two
circular holes and tapping the end with a hammer. The plate moved with
no trouble, and afterwards, I was able to twist it either way
using a pair of needle nose pliers.
The instructions tell you to bring the #6 cylinder to firing position before
disconnecting the cam plates. The cam lobes of the #6
cylinder are pointing straight out in this position. However they are
in this position twice during the cycle. The only way I know of to tell if
the cylinder is ready to fire, is the position of the distributor. And the
distributor is missing from this engine. So I removed the distributor from
another engine, installed it in this one and luckily, it was in the right
place.
I soaked the head studs with Kroil and will stop back during the week to do
it once or twice more before next Saturday. I hope to remove the studs next
week and (after releasing the cam bearings to avoid damage to the valves).
All I can say is its a lot easier the second time you do this.
The instructions tell you to bring the #6 cylinder to firing position before
disconnecting the cam plates. The cam lobes of the #6
cylinder are pointing straight out in this position. However they are
in this position twice during the cycle. The only way I know of to tell if
the cylinder is ready to fire, is the position of the distributor. And the
distributor is missing from this engine. So I removed the distributor from
another engine, installed it in this one and luckily, it was in the right
place.
The cam lobes, combined with setting the engine to the TDC marking on
the vibration damper is the “best butter”, Lou! In this position with
the cam lobes ensuring both valves on #6 is closed it’s TDC for #6!
The cams rotate only ONCE during an engine cycle (2 revolutions on the
crankshaft), but the respective valves are only closed at the TDC mark
for the cylinder ready to fire. At that point the distributor (likewise
rotating at half crankxhaft speed) will point to either the #1 or #6
cylinder, and it is pointing correctly only if it is pointing to the
cylinder ready to fire. By itself the rotor position on the dist in
itself is NOT a safe indicator - it has to be verified that the cylinder
is on it’s compression stroke …
In reply to a message from Lou Danzico sent Sun 29 Feb 2004:
Lou!
As you have those cam lobes positioned outwards, even without
a distributor, the front damper engine timing marks should
tell you that your on TDC, firing position.
Walter–
The original message included these comments:
The instructions tell you to bring the #6 cylinder to firing position before
disconnecting the cam plates. The cam lobes of the #6
cylinder are pointing straight out in this position. However they are
in this position twice during the cycle. The only way I know of to tell if
the cylinder is ready to fire, is the position of the distributor. And the
distributor is missing from this engine. So I removed the distributor from
another engine, installed it in this one and luckily, it was in the right
place.
–
69E / 78XJ6 / 73 VW Ghia
albuquerque/new mexico, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from W. Schuster sent Mon 1 Mar 2004:
Walter: I agree with your statement, however if the dizzy is out
you won’t know whether it’s firing on number one or six unless you
look down the hole the dizzy came out of and can determine from the
offset drive pinion (if thats the word)what position it would be in
if it were installed. If you get it wrong then the spark will occur
when both valves are open causing backfire. Personally I would
prefer to make sure the dizzy was installed and pointing to number
six with both valves closed before connecting the cam shafts.
When you think about it, untill the cam shafts are put on the
piston could be either on the end of a compression or exhaust
stroke at TDC.–
The original message included these comments:
As you have those cam lobes positioned outwards, even without
a distributor, the front damper engine timing marks should
tell you that your on TDC, firing position.
–
Len Stanway
Sydney, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I realize now there are revolutions of the crank to one of the cam.
Thanks
Lou> In reply to a message from Lou Danzico sent Sun 29 Feb 2004:
Lou!
As you have those cam lobes positioned outwards, even without
a distributor, the front damper engine timing marks should
tell you that your on TDC, firing position.
