In a message dated 99-11-15 21:26:13 EST, $teve writes:
<<Well it’s definitely the COLD season now here in CT>>
<<
I have decided to do some “clean up” on my Jag. New Oil, new oil filter,
and new antifreeze.
Yeah buddy, It’s that time of year again. I agree with the good doctors
advice on oil and long runs. There are many oil filter choices and if you
have a problem finding that Lucas F6565 or other “preferred” brand, try Fram
PH2931. You should be able to find them locally, and if your changing oil
every 3000 mi or so, which you should be, they’ll do fine.
Anti-freeze. Again, many choices out there. My personal preference is
ethylene glycol. Any name brand in a 50% solution will do the job. Jaguar
recommends use of a rust inhibitor additive . Jag # JLM636. Probably any good
name brand will do. There are many aluminum / steel parts in the XJ engine
and these promote electrolysis. Fresh anti-freeze and an additive will help
control this. I would avoid flushing system with anything other than fresh
water. Just fill er’ up and dump er’ a time or two. IMHO, Chemical flushing
should be avoided in a 10-15 year old system. Be sure to dispose of old
anti-freeze properly, and don’t leave containers where pets can get at them.
I’ve understand they think it tastes good.
Check all your belts and hoses, don’t forget the 1" or so shaped hoses at the
rear of the engine that go to the heater core. Replace any not in top shape,
easier to do now than in 2 feet of snow in february which is when they will
probably fail , and they are the type of part that your not likely to
find locally.
While your in there, give the engine fan the once over for signs of cracking.
Have fun, Rich
Guys, I mentioned my personal preference for ethylene glycol only because
it’s what I’ve been using for ever. Anyone have info. and/or experience with
some of the alternative anti-freezes available? Likewise, what’s your
opinions on using “dry gas” /alcohol fuel additives.
<< I’m going to be in the good old U of K for a few days over the millennium -
tough duty but somebody’s got to do it, right?
Would like to check out prices for a few bits and pieces for Josephine
before I cross the pond, so would appreciate recommendations for places
selling new and/or used Jaguar parts at good prices which I suspect are
significantly lower than over here. (BTW, Craig, I think the current
US$/Sterling exchange rate is about $1.63 to the pound…)
Please reply to me off-list if you think this is off too limited interest
to be worht the bandwidth for others.
Thanks - and happy Tuesday to you all…
Hi, Louden.
Some contacts out of Exchange and Mart, and Jaguar Drivers Club monthly
magazine :
Will and Marianne
Bangor, Co Down, Northern Ireland
1985 S111 Sovereign 4.2, Burgundy/Cream, 125K, “The Babe”
1988 S1V Sovereign 3.6, Grey/Grey, 128K.
“Saving” for S111 V12, Mark 2, …the list goes on…
Jaguar
recommends use of a rust inhibitor additive . Jag # JLM636.
AARGH - no! That is two bottles of Bars Leaks in a Jag box. All you
need is a good antifreeze of the correct specification. All Bars Leaks
does in progressively plug your radiator, necessitating having it rodded
when your engine overheats, and make it impossible to get the cylinder
head off (the pernicious stuff creeps up the head studs, and
effectlively bonds each one to the holes in the head).
Do yourself a favour and leave the blessed stuff out. Check the
archives for Bars (or Barrs, or Bar’s or Barr’s) Leaks and observe the
volume of spleen vented on this topic.
I think I agree. I’ve not used any “water-pump lubricant” or “rust inhibitor”
in any car for maybe 500,000mi+ and I’ve replaced exactly two water pumps, 2
thermostats and never had any overheating in any one those 5 cars. All but
one have/had aluminum heads too.
Alex
79xj6
Craig Sawyers wrote:>
Jaguar
recommends use of a rust inhibitor additive . Jag # JLM636.
AARGH - no! That is two bottles of Bars Leaks in a Jag box. All you
need is a good antifreeze of the correct specification. All Bars Leaks
does in progressively plug your radiator, necessitating having it rodded
when your engine overheats, and make it impossible to get the cylinder
head off (the pernicious stuff creeps up the head studs, and
effectlively bonds each one to the holes in the head).
Do yourself a favour and leave the blessed stuff out. Check the
archives for Bars (or Barrs, or Bar’s or Barr’s) Leaks and observe the
volume of spleen vented on this topic.
, and they are the type of part that your not likely to