I have a minor problem with rear brakes on my 84 xj6. I recently
replaced the rear pads which had a few microns of brake pad left on
them. They were squealing and had some vibration braking below 3mph.
replaced the pads and the problem went away. one month later and there
is occasional vibration like before and small squeak below 3mph when
braking. inspected pads at found that the inside (toward center of
disc) is not worn, only the outer side. Its the same on both pads, both
sides. put some disc brake grease on shiny circle on back of pads.
noise went away but after 10 minutes of driving it came back. I
probably could use new calipers and rotors. btw front brakes are fine.
Any Suggestions?
Harold
PS, how tough is it for DIYSer to replace the calipers and rotors? I
have the shop manual.
Harold
You need to drop the rear end down preferable out to allow easier working
access.
I am presently reassembling the rear end of our 82XJ6 which needed
rotors and pads. While it is out I figured might as well do everything
calipers,shocks,coils,universals that way it should not need to be
removed again for a long time I hope.
Keith
82 XJ6
72 MGB ww
85 Ram Charger
On Tue, 5 Jan 1999 09:16:46 -0800 Harold.Orlando@aerojet.com (Orlando,
Harold (AES Grumman)) writes:>I have a minor problem with rear brakes on my 84 xj6. I recently
replaced the rear pads which had a few microns of brake pad left on
them. They were squealing and had some vibration braking below 3mph.
replaced the pads and the problem went away. one month later and
there
is occasional vibration like before and small squeak below 3mph when
braking. inspected pads at found that the inside (toward center of
disc) is not worn, only the outer side. Its the same on both pads,
both
sides. put some disc brake grease on shiny circle on back of pads.
noise went away but after 10 minutes of driving it came back. I
probably could use new calipers and rotors. btw front brakes are
fine.
Any Suggestions?
Harold
PS, how tough is it for DIYSer to replace the calipers and rotors? I
have the shop manual.
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Fellow Listers,
I was investigating a leak between one of the over the axle exhaust
pipes and the front muffler when I noticed a Bad Thing. A very worn down
rear brake rotor. I was hoping not to have to learn about the rear
assembly for another year or so but this problem definitely can’t wait.
I am going to need a new pair of rotors and pads but is there anything
else I should order while I’m at it? As I’m at least a 1,000 miles from
any good parts source, it is a real bummer to discover I need some
little seal or bushing and have to wait another week before receiving
it. Funds are limited so I don’t want to get into a shipwrights
scenario. I don’t mind pulling out the rear assembly in another two
years or so to rebuild the calipers (not leaking now) or replace shocks
and springs. The car has about 135,000 km on it. Any suggestions ?
PS: couldn’t get into XJ archives, but could get into Saloon archives
with exactly the same approach.
Mark Nelson
86 XJ6
58 Mk1 (waiting for the XJ to stop demanding money & attention)
Prince George, B.C. Canada
I don’t mind pulling out the rear assembly in another two
years or so to rebuild the calipers (not leaking now) or
replace shocks
and springs.
I pulled my rear end on Saturday to repair a fuel leak (don’t ask).
Total time to get it out, do the repair, and put it back and ready to
roll - 8 hours. So don’t be too scared about the process. It makes
working on the rear end so much easier it is really worth it.
Craig
said:
Fellow Listers,
I was investigating a leak between one of the over the axle exhaust
pipes and the front muffler when I noticed a Bad Thing. A very worn down
rear brake rotor. I was hoping not to have to learn about the rear
assembly for another year or so but this problem definitely can’t wait.
I am going to need a new pair of rotors and pads but is there anything
else I should order while I’m at it? As I’m at least a 1,000 miles from
any good parts source, it is a real bummer to discover I need some
little seal or bushing and have to wait another week before receiving
it. Funds are limited so I don’t want to get into a shipwrights
scenario. I don’t mind pulling out the rear assembly in another two
years or so to rebuild the calipers (not leaking now) or replace shocks
and springs. The car has about 135,000 km on it. Any suggestions ?
PS: couldn’t get into XJ archives, but could get into Saloon archives
with exactly the same approach.
I had to have my rotors replaced, and had a lot of other stuff done at the
same time. Things I’d suggest checking: handbrake pads (easier to do if the
rotors are out), diff seals and gaskets (if your diff is leaking at all),
and radius arm bushes.
GraemeOn Sun, 19 Sep 1999 19:46:07 -0700, Nelsons mark_nelson@bc.sympatico.ca
========================================================
Graeme Adamson, @Graeme_Adamson
Jaguar XJ6 SII 1980: http://sherekhan.jumpautos.com
Committee Member: Jaguar Club of South Africa
Pournelle’s Law: If you don’t know what you’re doing,
deal with people who do.
bought a Haines,Not worth a dang, Bentley Manual isnt here yet,
I was surprised to see rear brake arrangement, I see rear end
fluid around differential, rotors etc. Am I supposed to remove
skid plate to
A) refill or check rearend fluid level.
B) work on brake pads, Clean rotors of oil.
seems like my life would be easier if I dropped it for a look
around and high pressure wash, after all it is 20 years old.
thanks in advance, I got her running and put fresh gas in ,
injector cleaner, marvels mystery oil, sprayed out throttle body (
found a cracked intake hose on it) with carb cleaner and she is
starting to purr like a cat.
Pretty excited this being the first Jag, although BMW seems to be
a bit easier to go at.
Happy Holidays
Rich–
Richard G
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// please trim quoted text to context only
bought a Haines,Not worth a dang, Bentley Manual isnt here yet,
I was surprised to see rear brake arrangement, I see rear end
fluid around differential, rotors etc. Am I supposed to remove
skid plate to
A) refill or check rearend fluid level.
B) work on brake pads, Clean rotors of oil.
seems like my life would be easier if I dropped it for a look
around and high pressure wash, after all it is 20 years old.
thanks in advance, I got her running and put fresh gas in ,
injector cleaner, marvels mystery oil, sprayed out throttle body (
found a cracked intake hose on it) with carb cleaner and she is
starting to purr like a cat.Pretty excited this being the first Jag, although BMW seems to be
a bit easier to go at.
Happy Holidays
Rich
Rich. Oil around the rotors generally indicates that your output shaft
seals are leaking on the differential. Cleaning it off the rotors will
only allow a temporary solution. I would fix it properly now by replacing
the seals before you get addicted to driving the car. To do this properly
without the use of a hoist you will have to drop the entire rear
suspension cage. This is not as difficult as it sounds and your Haynes
book will give you a fair idea how to do this and it will give you the
opportunity to inspect the rest of the rear end. The answer to your
original question is yes, you have to remove the rear plate. Its held by
8 bolts into the feet of the differential and 6 nuts and bolts to the
frame. In case you are worried it will fall out, the differential is also
secured at the top so it will not come a tumbling down when you release
these bolts on the plate.
Bob.===================================================
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// please trim quoted text to context only
I wouldn’t mention this if it didn’t happen to me on
an XJ-S. My rear end was allllll oily. Looked like a
bad scene. I went to get my A/C fixed and an
inspection sticker. A/C was $300 but he listed $6000
in repairs needed for the inspection sticker… one of
the faults being that the rear end was leaking onto
the rear brakes and had to all come apart.
Well I took the list and one by one did them myself.
Shocks, front brakes, ball joints… the easy stuff.
One thing I DON’T do is change my own oil. I went to
Jiffy Lube… I asked about the rear end… he said it
was full. I asked, isn’t the rear end covered in oil?
“Nah, thats blow back from your engine, diff oil is
ALOT thicker than that stuff”
So there you have it, the Jiffy Lube guy was right
too. The “European Auto Technician” was wrong. The
diff was fine. My rear main seal was SHOT!
Maybe your rear end is covered in engine oil…
John__________________________________
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In reply to a message from Richard G sent Sun 21 Dec 2003:
Richard!
The best thing you can do to make sure what’s
leaking, is to soak those areas with Simple Green,
then take it to a car wash and wash the whole areas.
In very short time everything will get clean and
tell you exactley where the leaks are.
If you need help in instruction for rear end removal
e-mail me.
Walter–
The original message included these comments:
I was surprised to see rear brake arrangement, I see rear end
fluid around differential, rotors etc. Am I supposed to remove
skid plate to
–
69E/78XJ6
albuquerque/new mexico, United States
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Hello Fellow Listers,
I am not a good service customer. Mostly I have always done all my own work
but recently I have asked some folks to do some heavy stuff.
Recently I had the rear brakes on my '85 XJ-S R&R’ed by a local shop. When I
went to pickup the car a quick glance at the bill showed rear e brake pads
at $195.20 I said it was wrong and paid the bill with them saying they would
fix it …welllllllll. Yup, it is now an issue.
Thay claim they bought JLM2209 and that is the cost.
When I go looking for the pads what is offered is JLM 9518 or JLM 1514 for
about $35/40. Please what is JLM2209 ?
COMMENTS ??
Best
John
Greenfield, Ma
Gloucester, Ma
USA
*** ALWAYS BE SAFE ***
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// please trim quoted text to context only
Hello Fellow Listers,
I am not a good service customer. Mostly I have always done all my own work
but recently I have asked some folks to do some heavy stuff.
Recently I had the rear brakes on my '85 XJ-S R&R’ed by a local shop. When I
went to pickup the car a quick glance at the bill showed rear e brake pads
at $195.20 I said it was wrong and paid the bill with them saying they would
fix it …welllllllll. Yup, it is now an issue.
Thay claim they bought JLM2209 and that is the cost.
When I go looking for the pads what is offered is JLM 9518 or JLM 1514 for
about $35/40. Please what is JLM2209 ?
COMMENTS ??
Best
John
Greenfield, Ma
Gloucester, Ma
USA
*** ALWAYS BE SAFE ***
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// please trim quoted text to context only
Thay claim they bought JLM2209 and that is the cost.
When I go looking for the pads what is offered is JLM 9518 or JLM 1514 for
about $35/40. Please what is JLM2209 ?
2209 appears to be the handbrake pads used on '93 on XJS, plus the XK8, and
the XJ from XJ40 on. If they used the 2209, the cost they charged you is
pretty good. I once asked a dealer for the cost on SIII brake pads, and
about choked.
It’s possible that the old part has been superceded by the newer part, thus
making your bill correct. Or it’s possible that someone simply entered the
wrong thing on your invoice.===================================================
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// please trim quoted text to context only
The pads are $35 for a set, and the two forks are $12
each. Bastards… Sounds like it took them longer
to do the job than they thought and they padded the
parts prices up to “list” rather than what it cost
them. What was the total bill?
John__________________________________
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Yes, something is rotten in Denmark.
The price charged for the pads is apparently the correct retail price…no
problem if they were the correct pads for the car, which they evidently
are not, the correct type/part number being much less expensive.
I would certainly pursue the matter. At very least an expensive error was
made. At worst they bought and installed the correct and less expensive
pads and charged for the more expensive type…a gross misrepresentation of
fact.
(If their intention was to be dishonest they certainly made a grave error in
showing a specific part number on the invoice, thus giving a basis from
which to prove fraud. This may indicate that they are very stupid crooks.
Or, conversely, may indicate that it was simply a billing error…because
“who on earth would be that stupid?” )
It is common for a repair shop to buy parts at a wholesale rate and resell
them at retail rates. Nothing unethical or dishonest in that practice,
providing that what they bill on the invoice is what was actually used on
the car. This helps generate the profits needed for them to keep their
doors open.
Doug Dwyer
Longview, Washington USA
1987 Ser III XJ6
1988 XJS V12From: “John Elwood” exeterxj12c@yahoo.com
and they padded the
parts prices up to “list” rather than what it cost
them. What was the total bill?
===================================================
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In reply to a message from J taylor sent Sun 31 Oct 2004:
Hi John, just confirming that JLM2209 is described as the
following on www.davidmanners.co.uk site.
JLM2209 Rear brake shoe set from VIN 594576. Price �103.55
without tax.
This looks like they have fitted the hand brake shoes onto
your XJS…only these are specified for the XJ40. Might be
a typing/billing error. Your XJ-S should have the inboard
hand brake pads not this type fitted, unless you’ve fitted a
later rear suspension set up?
The part number for that is discontinued but they are the
same as the XJ6/12 so the ‘replacement’ number is JLM9518 as
mentioned in the other posts…cost for these is �12-00 Uk.
Sounds like they’ve fitted the correct pads but quoted you
for the XJ40 types.
Go down there and ‘speak to them nicely’ and explain the
error of their ways. I think it’s an impossibility for
them to have fitted the ‘wrong’ handbrake pads.
Another question…have you actually looked at the car to
amke sure thay HAVE carried out this work??
Hope this helps…
Malcolm
Ipswich
UK–
The original message included these comments:
Hello Fellow Listers,
I am not a good service customer. Mostly I have always done all my own work
but recently I have asked some folks to do some heavy stuff.
Recently I had the rear brakes on my '85 XJ-S R&R’ed by a local shop. When I
went to pickup the car a quick glance at the bill showed rear e brake pads
at $195.20 I said it was wrong and paid the bill with them saying they would
fix it …welllllllll. Yup, it is now an issue.
Thay claim they bought JLM2209 and that is the cost.
When I go looking for the pads what is offered is JLM 9518 or JLM 1514 for
about $35/40. Please what is JLM2209 ?
COMMENTS ??
–
Malcolm Young
Ipswich, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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// please trim quoted text to context only
$1500? bargain. check out what they want at Classic
Jaguar to do a rear end…
http://www.classicjaguar.com/irsrebuilds.html
$4500 and thats doesnt include taking the cage off
and putting it back on again.
I did just the brake calipers, rotors, and emergency
pads/forks and the brake hose on my '84 XJ6 a few
weeks ago and spent nearly $400 on parts alone… so
$1500 seems a bargain considering the labor involved.
The fact that you were charged for the later pads
however gets me a little concerned that ONLY emergency
brake pads were fitted. I am assuming that new forks
were not installed. The handbrake forks, I am told,
over time get narrower to compensate for the wear of
the pads. They gradually bend inwards. I was told by
the list that they are made of bronze (looked like
brass to me…) but that on not terms should they be
re-used. When you bend them back out to reuse them
you are sure to crack them. Go take a look and see if
they replaced these forks.
John>
Hi,
well we did the diff at the same time so I would
guess about 1,500.John
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// please trim quoted text to context only
In reply to a message from John Elwood sent Mon 1 Nov 2004:
There seems to be some confusion here between rear brake pads and
hand brake pads for the IRS.
I seem to understand that the XJS has the same rear axle as the XJ6
SI, II III.
Rear brake pads are around �14 each
Hand Brake pads are about the same price
I take this opportunity to share my experience on this:
When replacing hand brake pads, it is highly recommended to also
replace the 2 brass forks that serve has ‘‘springs’’ to the hand
brake pads . They cost a handful of pennies each. Having done a
replacement of both sets of pads on my SII, I confirm that the
replacement of handbrake pads with rear axle in situ is a
wonderfully fiddly job to be attempted only when in search of inner
plenitude, with no small children’s ears around… 
From
experience, I cannot understand why anybody with a sane mind would
attempt to replace the handbrake pads without renewing the brass
forks at the same time. Not doing so is simply making the whole
procedure a LOT more difficult and dangerous: indeed, given the
fcat that here is no visual access to the bits, it is very hard /
impossible to visually confirm that the fork is actually fitted
properly, with its claws inside the adhoc holes on the pads
ensuring that the pads are in actually properly in place. Having
new forks helps enormously. Also, it is very possible to fit it all
to apparent satisfaction when in fact the pads are NOT in place
resulting in a very poorly operational handbrake, possibly applied
constantly leading to disastrous consequences.
Back to the actual rear brake pads replacement: it is a 15 minutes
job at most, that should cost �14 + 1/4 hour of labour. I say FIGHT
IT !!–
1975 XJ6C - LHD
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// please trim quoted text to context only
Eric318 wrote:
From
experience, I cannot understand why anybody with a sane mind would
attempt to replace the handbrake pads without renewing the brass
forks at the same time. Not doing so is simply making the whole
procedure a LOT more difficult and dangerous: indeed, given the
fcat that here is no visual access to the bits, it is very hard /
impossible to visually confirm that the fork is actually fitted
properly, with its claws inside the adhoc holes on the pads
ensuring that the pads are in actually properly in place. Having
new forks helps enormously. Also, it is very possible to fit it all
to apparent satisfaction when in fact the pads are NOT in place
resulting in a very poorly operational handbrake, possibly applied
constantly leading to disastrous consequences.
The brass fingers are pad retractors, Eric. “Collapsing” slowly as the
pads wear they retain just enough “elasticity” to move the pads a
little out from the disc…
And they are supposed to be replaced with the pads, or indeed whenever,
an if, they are deformed by any service of the handbrake. They have no
bearing on the braking effort as such, of course, and unless there is a
strong and continuous force applied to the handbrake the braking effect
is minimal. Come to think of it - the effect is not not exactly
impressive even with a strong force…? 
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
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When working properly the handbrake will hold the car fiercely, Frank. All
but worthless at stopping a moving car…heh heh…heh… but will
hold the car well if applied when stationary
I might add that, on both my Jags, the handbrake pads needed [what I thought
of as] an inordinate amount of “bedding in” to become effective.
Doug Dwyer
Longview, Washington USA
1987 Ser III XJ6
1988 XJS V12From: “Frank Andersen” franksue@xtra.co.nz
and unless there is a
strong and continuous force applied to the handbrake the braking effect
is minimal. Come to think of it - the effect is not not exactly
impressive even with a strong force…?
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Hello all, is there an easy way of changing the rear brakes on a
1980 xj6 (maybe not easy but a better way from all of you experts!)
Thanks
Rhonda–
firechick
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