[xj] Rear suspension

the rear shocks are fairly straight foward to remove. you only need to put
the rear
up on jack stands and remove the wheels. access isnt to much of a problem,
the only
real pesty part is removing the old springs from the old dampers to retrieve
the
collets to use when assembling the new shocks and springs, unless you
brought them
as well, btw, the procedure is in the ROM and is probably one of the few
that dont
start with the line ‘step 1. remove the engine…’ :)).

regards
darrin----- Original Message -----
From: Baard Th Hesvik bhesvik@telesoft.no
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 5:31 PM
Subject: [xj] Rear suspension

Hi,
When on the issue, I am planning on replacing the rear road springs and
dampers, but I don’t feel like shedding the entire subframe unit.

Does any of you listers have experience in doing this with the cage in
situ, or slightly lowered to easier get to the top bolts?

Best regards
Baard Th Hesvik
Jaguar XJ6 4.2 litre Series I 1972 SWB - Dark Blue/Grey

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Hi,
When on the issue, I am planning on replacing the rear road springs and dampers, but I don’t feel like shedding the entire subframe unit.

Does any of you listers have experience in doing this with the cage in situ, or slightly lowered to easier get to the top bolts?

Best regards
Baard Th Hesvik
Jaguar XJ6 4.2 litre Series I 1972 SWB - Dark Blue/Grey===================================================
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At 09:31 23-4-2001 +0200, you wrote:

Does any of you listers have experience in doing this with the cage in
situ, or slightly lowered to easier get to the top bolts?

Best regards
Baard Th Hesvik
Jaguar XJ6 4.2 litre Series I 1972 SWB - Dark Blue/Grey
Hello Baard

If I had the choice I’ld take the cage out . It is an relative
simple operation I had mine out in about an hour and a half
this being the first time for me to do it.

succes Jeroen

Jeroen van Gool
Daimler souvereign 4.2 1970
Range Rover 3.5 1971

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jvangool
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Baard asked:

Does any of you listers have experience in doing this with the cage in
situ, or slightly lowered to easier get to the top bolts?

Jeroen replied:

If I had the choice I’ld take the cage out . It is an relative
simple operation I had mine out in about an hour and a half
this being the first time for me to do it.

Unless you’re planning on doing more than merely changing the
rear shocks and springs, dropping the cage is a waste of time.
In the hour and a half taken to drop the cage, I’d have had the
shocks and springs in and out, without breaking a sweat. Dropping
the cage is a job best saved for when you’re planning a full
overhaul, not at all necessary for the simple job asked about.

Nick–
'70 XJ6 4.2 MOD Tri-carb etc - Fast kitty! vs. '82 XJ6 4.2 Auto - Shitty kitty
Updated to-do list at leathermotive.com - leathermotive Resources and Information.
The Jaguar Specialist Web: http://www.jagweb.com/
Leather care: http://www.leathermotive.com (Jag-lovers discount!)

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When on the issue, I am planning on replacing the rear road springs and
dampers, but I don’t feel like shedding the entire subframe unit.

Does any of you listers have experience in doing this with the cage in
situ, or slightly lowered to easier get to the top bolts?

Yes…it’s easy and quick to do it with the rear in the car…so easy I
wonder why you asked…8>)

Cheers,

JebFrom: “Baard Th Hesvik”

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Does any of you listers have experience in doing this with the cage in situ, or slightly lowered to easier get to the top bolts? Baard, I just did this procedure a couple week ago on my 86 Vdp. Series 3. No need to drop the rear sub. Just remove the wheels and have a grouping of 11/16" sockets, extensions and wrenches. The first side took about an hour, and the second side took 20 minutes. This does not include the time to put new springs on new shocks. I don't know if the S1 is different, but it should be very similar and it made a huge difference in ride and height of body. Good Luck

J. Patrick Bloem
East Grand Rapids, Mich.
86 VDP 105k, Cranberry/Doeskin
68 TR250 92k, White/Black===================================================
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