Greetings all! I’m new to this forum and this is my first post but I’ve been busily (and gratefully) reading your all’s expertise for several weeks now.
I just bought my first Jaguar, a 1989 XJ-S coupe (10/88 build date) with ~47,000 miles. It suffers from the common gas smell in the trunk, in large part, I think, because several of the fuel hoses back there are original and are obviously “weeping.” I am gathering all the components to replace all the hoses in one sweep. In doing this prep, I’ve done a lot of review to be sure I understand the XJ-S fuel plumbing layout in full.
I’ve discovered that my car still has the 2psi valve (does this valve vent in both directions as I assume it does?) in the line from the condenser in the right buttress to the front left wing/vapor canister. I therefore suspect it never had the Recall R351 repair performed (further backed up by the complete absence of any of the new components listed in the Recall R351 bulletin). The tank itself (clearly the original green/olive colored one) does not appear to be leaking. I should also mention that I have no whoosh issue when I remove the original gas cap for fill up.
My question: considering that the tank is ok and has not ruptured in 30 years from pressure issues, can I simply reinstall the 2psi valve in its normal spot in the new Gates barricade FI lines I’m putting in throughout the trunk and be on my way?
I’d rather do this than attempt to essentially perform the full recall repair myself with the Rochester valve setup etc. Other than a slight risk that the tank could be compromised eventually in the future by the original factory (possibly) faulty valve setup, is there any particular risk to doing this instead of a full “recall repair” install?
Additionally, does anyone have any tips for finding (or a part number for) the trunk floor rubber drain plugs (there seem to be 4 holes in the floor in total)? Two of my plugs are missing and the other two are rotted and crumbling but were maybe “scoop” shaped at one point.
I have had similar problems. …had tank lined…changed hoses…put electric valve to by pass cannister valves…eliminated sump tank…new hoses…tested condenser by blockin off and even vented to air temporarily. …still smells…potentially it could be in that condenser area …or maybe pump or filter has finite leak…smell comes after trunk is closed for a couple of hours after running engine…while i drive no smell and immediately right after if i open trunk there is no smell…i have thought of getting that condenser valve changed or eliminated also…you will surely get a lot of comments on this.
regarding replacing all the hoses for fuel tank - i see some are simple fuel injection hose, and some are available. But some are NLA. What do you plan for those?
I intend to use Gates Barricade CARB compliant FI hose throughout (in 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, and 1/2 inch sizes as all 4 of those sizes are present/used in the within the trunk lines). I’m aware that some people have had issues with the hose from the sump tank to the fuel pump kinking at the tight corner (not totally sure that I know where this corner is but I’m guessing it will become obvious in due time) but I’m hoping to avoid my lack of a molded hose with a somewhat longer 1/2in hose run (I think I’ve read about this working for some elsewhere on this forum). I’m focused on the hoses inside the trunk only right now. The hoses over the rear cage to/from the engine I’ve not accessed or thought about yet (though they probably need replacing fairly soon too). They might be part of my smell issue but the weeping lines in the trunk are clearly the most pressing seeing as they are fully in the trunk and weeping enough to be damp to the touch on their outsides in a few spots after a short to medium drive.
I am too, i’m even going to get the expensive FI hose rated to 250psi just for fun, at like $6/foot at NAPA.
But i’m talking about the lines that are part metal part hose with compression fittings going to the tank. How will you replace those if there is no supplier?
You’re right on with the CARB rated hose. See my write up at my website.
I looked several years ago but wasn’t able to find the plugs. At some point Jaguar provide a “ventilator” insert in place of a simple plug. The vent went through the floor pan and pointed backward, so as to suck air out of the boot.
Douglas,
Welcome to what I think is the most active Jaguar XJS forum on the planet.
PM me with the hole diameter for the plugs and how many needed.
I save everything.
Steve
Greg, yeah exactly, that’s the stuff I have in mind too.
As of right now, I wasn’t intending to disconnect those metal pipes with compression fittings from the main tank. I think (but am not sure so please correct me if I’m wrong/have overlooked one somewhere) that every rubber hose in the trunk can be replaced without undoing any compression fittings.
It seems to me that I am unlikely to get them on/sealed any better than they are on right now if I take them off. Also, all of my compression fittings are dry and completely odor free when rubbed with a clean bare finger so I’m thinking (or maybe I should say hoping) that they are not contributing to the smell issue.
Are yours already off your main tank? Do you see a specific reason that they must be removed? Have I misunderstood what compression fitting you are referring to?
If you don’t have to remove the metal lines…don’t. .the compression ferrule can be replaced. .beware that themetal line could be slightly crushed where the old ferrule was…ask othersbut i believe sae ferrules will work for replacements.
I am going to replace the tank, so I will have to either buy new compression fittings, or somehow have the original ones rebuilt. It’s not too hard to create a new compression fitting, so I may have to go that route, and simply give it to a shop to build. I hear it’s not actually that expensive. And you’re right, once you take off that compression fitting, it probably won’t seal the same (unless you renew it)
Those hoses could easily contribute to vapor, as they’re made of similar rubber material as the fuel hoses, are they not?
I think maybe it’s called a vapor seperator. It’s in the right buttress and my limited understanding is that some fuel vapor that goes up there might condense and drain back to the tank. I wasnt sure what to call it for sure but maybe others on here know the best name for that part.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
12
Regarding the 2psi valve, don’t go for the recall configuration. Rather, leave it all as-is except ADD a solenoid vacuum valve that bypasses the 2psi valve when energized. Connect it to the O2 sensor heater circuit, nearby.
I like that idea. So is the O2 sensor heater circuit in the back right in that general area then? My 2psi valve is essentially in the buttress right by the seperator before the metal tube up to the charcoal canister. Thanks.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
14
Well, no, O2 sensors are up front. You can tap into the power to the ECU, though. Anything that’s powered when the ignition is on.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
15
You might also opt to install inline fuel filters on either side of the 2psi valve/solenoid valve combo to keep crud out of them.
Oh ok I see what you mean. thanks. And with this configuration the original charcoal canister up front should have an open link to the tank when the car is on (due to solenoid) but when car is off the 2psi valve will block the connection for the smallest pressure or vaccum but allow greater pressure through. Is my understanding right? And this also means no Rochester valve with vacuum line is necessary up front? Thanks again
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
17
Correct. And that’s exactly what the Rochester valve did except that it used engine vacuum to open it up when the engine was running rather than an electric solenoid.
thank you that makes sense–am I right in thinking that there are a few crimp connections on some of the hoses that could just as easily be replaced with clamps once I put my new hoses in?
greg, they definitely are made of similar material (now that I understand from your picture in your own forum post which ones you are talking about)
be sure to account for hoses to the vapor separator (there are 4 in total that go up to it in the right buttress) two 1/4 in from tank to it and one 5/16 in from tank to it. then the 4th one is 1/4 in I believe and runs (in my car through a 2psi valve first) then to a small metal tube that goes all the way to the charcoal canister front left
the theory is the two 1/4 in to tank are for venting, the 5/16 is a drain for any gas that condenses to flow back into tank and the third 1/4 that leads up front is for the EVAP system and tank venting
you may have already known this but since I think I understand this system’s design properly know I figured I’d throw this up here in case it’s of use to anyone else at some later point
I have yet to study that part of the tank, so thanks for the info. Looks like all I’ll need is a bunch of fuel hose for that (doesn’t need to be injection hose)