In reply to a message from DanS sent Tue 2 Feb 2016:
I used a generic two gauge pod for my temp gauges (one for
each bank) on the A pillar. I’m going to remove it because
the gauges are too far out. I’m looking at a pod that will
mount on the center of the dash.–
Maynard 94 XJS V12 Coupe 91XJS(RIP) 86XJ6 78MGB 67MGB
Palatine, IL, United States
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In reply to a message from Maynard sent Tue 2 Feb 2016:
I have looked at a few dash pods but they would really sit
up high. AUTO METER has the smaller gauges and if they
have a pod that I could put down next to the junction with
the dashboard I might give that a try. The also have the
dash pod that would be my second chose.
Any photos?
Dan–
The original message included these comments:
the gauges are too far out. I’m looking at a pod that will
mount on the center of the dash.
In reply to a message from DanS sent Tue 2 Feb 2016:
Mine’s an 89 and I am frankly not sure what the dash in a 94 looks
like, but here is my center-dash solution:
(even when the trip computer worked properly it wasn’t that
interesting to me so I don’t miss it.)–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from Maynard sent Tue 2 Feb 2016:
I have looked at a few dash pods but they would really sit
up high. AUTO METER has the smaller gauges and if they
have a pod that I could put down next to the junction with
the dashboard I might give that a try. The also have the
dash pod that would be my second chose.
Any photos?
Dan
In reply to a message from BobPhx sent Wed 3 Feb 2016:
Looks good and I have considered that to, having seen your
photo in the past. But I do like the diagnostic part of
my computer. So would still like to try the A pillar, am
also looking at some experimental aircraft monitors that
would allow me to monitor all 12 injectors real time!
Dan–
The original message included these comments:
Steve–
The original message included these comments:
Looks good and I have considered that to, having seen your
photo in the past. But I do like the diagnostic part of
my computer. So would still like to try the A pillar, am
Hey Bob I’m just wondering if you will be able to help me and please let me know how did you put mechanical gages from dash to engine bay ? I couldn’t find any holes
Thank you
The oil pressure and A bank water are run through the rubber “boot” that brings the vacuum lines and other wires into the car, on my LHD car it is behind the A-bank on the plate where the ABS pump and ball mount. I had to fish a pull-wire thru there as you cannot easily get to the inside.
For the B bank water I had to drill a new hole up above the throttle pedal. I don’t recall where, I can post a pic tomorrow.
Since these are mechanical gauges, the length of the sending tubes is fixed for the water gauges, It was a stretch for both A and B banks but I made it work. I think the tubes were like 48".
Oil pressure is not a problem as that is a cut-to-length tube, you can make it as long or as short as you want.
Alternatively you can go with electric gauges like @gregma did. Wires are easier to run than tubes. Mechanical was my choice because I like the 270d sweep, and most electric are a 90d sweep. But I know Greg is very pleased with his as well, so it’s a personal preference thing.
On mechanical temperature gauges, no liquid is brought into the interior of the car. The tubes are sealed capillary with a small bulb at the end.
Mechanical pressure gauges do use a small capillary tube that brings oil all the way to the gauge. In 35 years I’ve never had one fail.
Mechanical fuel pressure gauges should use an isolator so no pressurized fuel is brought into the interior.
Having said all that, back in the day the electric gauge weren’t that great. Now they are exceptional, as accurate, and easier to install than mechanicals. It’s mostly weird old guys that use mechanicals.
I ran new wires directly from the electric senders on the engine back to firewall, and to corner of engine compartment at brake booster. I then somehow (sorry can’t remember) got them through inside of fender and into the left side of the dashboard. I had to remove instrument cluster, ran wires along the back of that, and into the center dash area where trip computer used to be. I think I used the hot wire from radio to power the gauges.
Sergey - Part of the reason for extra gauges is to have readings that are completely separate from any factory gauges, which typically aren’t that good. Each gage will come with its own individual sending unit, which must be tapped into a water rail, oil pressure galley, etc.
The bottom of this page shows where my water temperature sending unit are. Greg’s are likely in similar locations, the sending unit installation is similar for electrical or mechanical.
One of the first things I did on my car, and they have been invaluable! Not only do I now feel confident that I have good oil pressure (OEM oil pressure gauge is absolute crapola), but it’s so nice to know EXACTLY what the coolant temp is (no more bottom of N, top of N, middle of N), and for safety, both A and B bank.
I of course still have the OEM gauges operational, but they’re more decoration now
[I think my need for extra gauges is an inherited trait. Dad’s e type has two on each side of the console and a fifth between the drivers knees. They are:
-Oil pressure
-Oil temp
-Trans temp (now moot with the 5 speed)
-Amps
-Water temp
He generally knows exactly what’s going on with that car lol.
make sense. thank you.
i’m going to setup mechanicals as well as yours, would be really good to know what’s going on in the whole car like your Dad’s one
