Yes, but if you are talking about coolant level sensor ( my reference was temp. sensor) is that going in your radiator or expansion tank. Stock expansion tank will not be isolated anyway.
Sorry, yes I was talking about the coolant level sensor. I ended up drilling a hole and using a hard rubber grommet and inserting the sensor that was in the old radiator. It fits pretty tight so hopefully it won’t leak.
Location on old radiator
Ahoy !
My brother is trying to install a BeCool on 1990 V12. It is not a drop-in/some mods for Jaguar V-12 as advertised. More trouble than it is worth.In hindsight, he would have research other alternatives.
Auto Trans Lines: Be Cool Tech Service is clueless. My brother purchased the the correct fitting from Wizard who knew exactly what is needed. Appears to be available from McMaster-Carr; however, my brother did not measure threads prior to installation.
BeCool $$$ “T” is not an easy fit. Yes, much modification to fan shroud and, even the top rail for the banjo fittings.
YMMV
I’ve not yet attempted replacing the radiator.
Regards,
Richard Cielec
Greater Chicago Metro; U.S.A.
On an all-metal radiator…how is that done?
Rubber cotton reels top and bottom
Riiiight, but how does that make the tank grounded, and the core not?
Is the tank (header) not remotely mounted?
I suspect we have a terminology problem. Paul, the “header tank” refered to is the expansion tank bolted to inner guard/wing at the left hand front corner of engine bay. It is not part of the radiator although that may be a term used to describe the radiator tanks.
Here is a picture of my Be-cool installation. I used copper fittings for the T. (ignore the messy solder job)
I used a 1994-1999 Cadillac DeVille Radiator Hose Dayco 71704 (you can see the number in the 2nd picture) that fit nicely from the left side over to the Tee fitting. I had to remove the plastic horn tip from the right air intake because it bumped the Tee. I tried hard to get the radiator to be isolated but was unsuccessful. There are rubber grommets below and above the radiator and rubber grommets that the small metal tube fits into on the top steel panel. So as long as The sides don’t touch I would think I could keep it isolated since the top grounded panel doesn’t physically touch the radiator. I put some pipe insulation above and on the sides to keep out air (as well as to keep it isolated) but every time I bolted the top down it became connected somewhere. I ended up getting a radiator anode (3rd pic) for preventing electrolysis that is supposed to fit in the drain petcock but I put it in the upper left top hole that had a plug in it which was much easier to get to. It fit but barely. the side of the anode was touching the aluminum on the inside. Even though I got a great deal on the radiator (440.00usd including shipping) I’m not sure I would recommend this. It was a lot of work to make a working tee which was also another $60 in copper fittings. I first tried to use cast iron parts but they were too bulky and I could not make them fit. Then hunting down the radiator hose took some time as well. I basically went into autozone and asked to look at all of the hoses they had. That one looked like the best fit and it was.
Removing that trumpet is ungood. Reports are that it significantly impacts airflow and performance. Of course, you could just cut the whole trumpet off shorter.
Surprised the copper fittings cost that much.
Good to know. I will trim the trumpet shorter and put it back on. Thanks
Yea, the local consumer hardware stores don’t carry copper pipe that big. I had to hunt down a commercial plumbing supply and took in the radiator hose to find a fit. I used 5 pieces of 2.5" pipe (maybe it was 2.25 can’t remember) 2 of which were reducers that went to the smaller hoses. Each piece was 10 to $15. I priced two different suppliers and used the cheaper one.
It’s 1-1/4" pipe. I think you might have gotten away with one fewer fitting by using a longer A bank hose and angling the elbow coming out of the tee better. Still, it’s clearly a fiddly job.
One alternative might have been to use a copper pipe to go all the way over to the B bank and then use a shorter hose over there. I dunno if that would have made things harder or easier.
Interesting. We’re talking about the rail over top of the rad? Do you think the connection was made there, or was it somewhere else and just connected by having the rad firmly pressed into location?
No the top rail seemed to be isolated by the grommets. It was touching elsewhere. I think maybe it was the Fan housing. I taped up the edges of the fan housing to insulate them (however that probably wouldn’t last) and at one point I didn’t have any connection but after hooking everthing up I checked again and it was connected. The fan housing butts up against the radiator and it connects at the bottom and to the top rail. Maybe I could have put a rubber strip between it and radiator but didn’t have anything handy.
The hose that connects from the Tee to the radiator is larger than the 2 input hoses hence the need for the reducer off of the tee. I might have been able to use one less piece on the B bank but it made the stock hose kind of kink so added an extra piece to give a better angle.
I put new hoses to the radiator for the transmission cooler lines. One was a little too long and I didn’t route it and secure it properly. When I started the car the pressure made the hose stand up and contact the belt. Next thing I know there is transmission fluid spraying all over the engine. Live and learn… 
Yeah, I think there was originally a rubber thingie clipped onto those edges that bumped up against the rad. It’s been a while, though, my memory may be faulty.
On pg 200 of The Book, Kirby suggested the 6-cyl radiator as being a possible candidate for a V12 single pass conversion but wondered if it had the required cooling capacity. Was that ever determined by anyone?
Tony