Here are the pictures as promised if anyone needs further
pictures/information please contact me.
Kerry
http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1120597655--
kerryHoffman
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In reply to a message from kerryHoffman sent Tue 5 Jul 2005:
I just ordered a be cool rad, and T pipe, should get them end of
the week, any advice / pitfalls to avoid (I’ve been following the
various threads here, and read the info in the book). It looks like
you hooked it up with regular hose rather than flexi hose?–
usctrojan78
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In reply to a message from usctrojan78 sent Wed 6 Jul 2005:
The only problem I have yet to take care is that the right hand
thermostat housing on the ABS cars bends down before turning up. I
am going to replace it with a pre ABS housing. This will allow a
better hookup of the right hand hose. The hoses are not flex I went
to an autoparts store to find something with the right bend for the
left side. The right side is made from std XJS hoses. Other than
that it is a simple drop in procedure.
Kerry–
The original message included these comments:
I just ordered a be cool rad, and T pipe, should get them end of
the week, any advice / pitfalls to avoid (I’ve been following the
various threads here, and read the info in the book). It looks like
you hooked it up with regular hose rather than flexi hose?
–
kerryHoffman
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I find out after the install that the thermostats, having sat there for
almost a year without use, have stuck to the point they only open
up after the water is boiling hot. Dumb mistake not replacing them
from the get go.
-Somi
92 V12 Coupe
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In reply to a message from usctrojan78 sent Wed 6 Jul 2005:
Very Nice Kerry.
I also installed the BeCool radiator and a set of V12s fans.
I like your plumbing idea with the T. I had two inlets welded onto
my radiator and plumbed a cross-flow pipe across like you did. I
also like your temp sensor in the cross pipe for kicking on the
second fan when sensing the hotest water coming from the left bank
at the return instead of the Jaguar design taking the temp at its
coolest when returning from the radiator to the water pump. I will
install your idea. I have it wired to come on also when the AC
compressor comes on.
I will put some pics up, if I can figure it out.
Frank–
HAZEL 1985
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In reply to a message from Michael P. Deignan sent Wed 6 Jul 2005:
I don’t totally disagree with you. This has been a crazy question
for the longest time with the V12. The temp guage sensor is on the
right hand side of the engine before the thermostat to show when it
is hottest. We all know that the left bank is typically the
hottest due to the design flow of the engine block though. To look
at it another way, having the fan control on the pre-radiator side
will kick the fan on before it cools the water because the engine
is running too hot. It should be running at 88C by design and
thermostat temps. if it is above this, it will kick on the second
fan thereby allowing the most cooling power of the radiator. You
are right by saying if the radiator is working properly, it doesn’t
matter what the engine return temp is if the radiator is sending
cool enough water to it after cooling it. I guess the best way to
look at it is that if the water temp down stream of the radiator
isn’t cool enough, then the sensor there will kick on the fan and
make the radiator cool the water more. At least at that point if
your engine is to hot, then you know you may have a thermostat or
other engine problem. Maybe having the sensor on the hot side like
Kerry has it plumbed will alway kick on the second fan unless he
has a 90C sensor in there to make it only come on when the engine
return water gets hotter than it is supposed to be.
Lots of speculation. Currently my fan is wired up to the factory
sensor in the waterpump inflow housing from the factory.
Your thoughts?
Frank–
The original message included these comments:
To me, it would seem that you would want to measure your coolant temp going
in to the engine. If the coolant temp is too high, then you kick on the
fans to cool it down before it enters the engine.
–
HAZEL 1985
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I guess the best way to
look at it is that if the water temp down stream of the radiator
isn’t cool enough, then the sensor there will kick on the fan and
make the radiator cool the water more.
I think that was the Jaguar design idea. The electrical fan is called
“auxiliary”
because it’s only supposed to come on if the mechanical fan isn’t
enough. It’s probably not a very good strategy for controlling
an electrical fan serving as a main fan.
Ed Sowell
76 XJ-S
http://www.efsowell.us/ed/myJag.html
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In reply to a message from Franklef sent Wed 6 Jul 2005:
The secondary (aux) fan is controlled by the secondary fan switch
which is set to come on at 200, cooler than the Jag controller, the
primary fan comes on at 190 so as long as the car is running
correctly and cool the secondary fan will not come on nor will the
primary, unless the A/C is turned on then both fans will run even
if the engine is dead cold as the A/C needs the air flowing thru
it. The primary fans controller also has a shutdown circuit that
can be adjusted for length of time the primary fan runs after
shutdown.–
The original message included these comments:
other engine problem. Maybe having the sensor on the hot side like
Kerry has it plumbed will alway kick on the second fan unless he
has a 90C sensor in there to make it only come on when the engine
return water gets hotter than it is supposed to be.
Lots of speculation. Currently my fan is wired up to the factory
sensor in the waterpump inflow housing from the factory.
–
kerryHoffman
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