In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
My apologies…I guess the black ‘‘bulb’’ is the
accumulator…not the actuator.–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
Also, the repair instructions for the main valve on page
70-20 says to ‘‘check indicated solenoid valve / terminals
for short or interruption (21-27).’’
It sounds like the resistance test I performed already
checked for a short or interruption…so I guess the
question would be…does page 21-27 say to replace the
entire part or are there any other recommended diagnostics?
Thanks again for all of your help.
Also, where can I get the complete repair manual for the
1995-1996 Jaguar XJS 4.0L?–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
Ah ha! I had the multimeter on the wrong setting! Got 4.2
ohms resistance at the ECM and at the main valve male plug!
Maybe it just needs to be cleaned out. I’ll order the new
RR sensor though, as I know that is bad. All three other
sensors measure right at 1.1 k ohms. So the 0.02 ohm
reading for RR means it is bad. Will have a new one
sent…I’ve got a feeling the RR sensor will make code 21 go
away, but there is no way to tell yet. Worse case, I’ll
remove the main valve and clean it out.
Units are important! Thanks again.–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
''I turned the meter to the ohms function and held the test
leads apart and got a reading of 1 ohms … ‘’
I don’t know how it can do that with the test leads not contacting
each other. It should not be reading any ohms or infinite ohms. I
would take it back to where you bought it and have them explain how
it can read 1 ohm when the leads are not contacting each other - to
me, that’s a malfunction of the meter.
Before I trusted the readings of your meter, I would want to find
out why it reads 1 ohm with the leads not contacting anything
and/or not touching together.
‘‘then I put the test leads directly together and got a reading of 0
ohms.’’
That would be correct.
''Then I put the test leads on the 2 male pins directly on the
main valve and got a reading of 0 ohms. So it sounds like
the solenoid coil is shorted.’’
Are you sure that each lead was only touching a pin each of the
main valve and not touching any of the metal around the pins? If
the leads were only touching 1 pin each and not any of the
surrounding metal and you got ‘‘0’’ Ohms, then that indicates a short
of the main valve solenoid coil and it is a throw away - if you
trust your meter readings.
''Could you explain the significance of getting a 0 ohm
reading instead of a 2-5 ohm reading in the case of the main
valve or a 0.8-1.4 ohm reading in the case of the RR sensor?
What does the 0 ohm reading tell me from a physical
standpoint…’’
‘‘0’’ ohms means there is no or little resistance, or a short (the
electricity is short cutting the circuit and not flowing thru the
intended path so the circuit (solenoid) will not work. Even short
lengths of wire and circuits have some value of resistance such as
the 0.8-1.4 ohms you expect to see for the wheel sensors, or the 2-
5 ohm for the main valve. When you test a wire or circuit for
continuity (no breaks) you still expect to see some small value of
resistance. Some of the readings are subjective and you need to
have some knowledge of the circuit.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
Justin,
Sometimes a break in the insulation (like your original RR sensor)
is repairable. I have repaired on of the front ones and I believe
George Balthrop has also repaired some. The rear cables a no
different - they are like coax cable with woven wire sheath on the
outside and a solid core wire in the middle. If you peel back the
insulation where you see it is broken and stressed, you will
probably see that the woven wire sheath just under the insulation
is also broken. Get some fine un-insulated wire and wind it
tightly around the wire sheath about 3/8 to 1/2 inch from one side
of the break to about the same distance on the other side of the
break. Anchor on each end with a mechanical tie or carefully place
a small spot of solder on each end to attach the ends to the
sheath. Be careful not to burn into the insulation to the core.
Or put a spot of ‘‘crazy glue’’ on each end. You can then place a
piece or foil just wrapped around just over once. Then, tightly
wrap your whole repair with a good quality electrical tape. Test
your work with your meter, and the ohms should be in the ball park.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
‘’ Worse case, I’ll remove the main valve and clean it out.’’
Before you try removing it, carefully apply 12v directly to the
main valve pins (see my previous post regarding polarity of the
main valve - it may not matter). Be careful not to short the wires
out against the surrounding metal - if the valve clicks, I would
not remove it. Replace your right rear sensor and see what you get.
Refill Flush the system with a great quality brake fluid. None of
us that have used Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid over the past
number of years (8 years for me) have ever had any fluid related
problems.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
''Also, I thought the thing with the black ‘‘bulb’’ on the other
side of the engine bay is called the actuator?’’
No, that’s the accumulator.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
''Also, where can I get the complete repair manual for the
1995-1996 Jaguar XJS 4.0L?’’
Get the JHM 1176 DVD from Coventry West, Motorcars, Ltd, or
similar, or JDHT direct.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from lockheed sent Sat 18 May 2013:
Lockheed,
Thanks again for the information.
I think I misinterpreted what the multimeter said with the
leads apart. It looks like a 1 but I think that it’s the
letter I. It is on the left side of the screen, as opposed
to the right, which is where the numbers show up. So I
think it is working fine…I misunderstood how to read it.
I tried to fix the sensor this afternoon but when I was
trying to cut through the insulation to get a better look
inside, I accidentally spliced through the entire wire - so
I’ll just have to wait for a good used one to
arrive…should be mid-week.
I’ll try applying the 12 volts and report back.–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
As for applying the 12 volts…
How do you normally go about doing this? I have a battery
charger that I can plug into the wall and set to 12
volts…will this work?
Also, I want to make sure I get the polarity right.
First, what damage would I cause if I reversed the polarity?
I know this can be very dangerous in the case of car batteries.
Secondly, from the electrical schematic it looks like that
looking from the front of the car into the main valve
terminal…that the black/ground terminal is on the
left…and that the red one is on the right. It’s tough to
speak in terms of 1 and 2 because the pins on the main valve
aren’t labeled.
Do you agree?
Want to make sure I have this right before doing something
stupid…–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sat 18 May 2013:
''How do you normally go about doing this? I have a battery
charger that I can plug into the wall and set to 12
volts…will this work?’’
The battery charger will work as will any 12v DC source. Just make
sure you use some small insulated wire from the charger clamps with
only a small amount of wire exposed on the ends you use to contact
the pins. This will help prevent shorting the wires together or
inadvertently touching them to something other than the pins.
‘‘Also, I want to make sure I get the polarity right.’’
Good thinking - rather than stripping the insulation on the
connector plug to see which color wire goes to which pin, it is
much easier to just set your meter to ohms (make sure your ignition
is off), place one lead to a good ground - like the fender strut
bolt or the aluminum of the brake pedal box (make sure you scrap
off any corrosion and have a good contact) and the other meter lead
to each of the connectors (female) in the main valve plug. One
connector will read high resistance like 3K ohms or so, and the
other connector should read less than one ohm - guess which one is
the ground connector (the one that reads less than 1 ohm). Simply
correlate that connector to the corresponding pin of the main
valve. On mine, the main valve portion has a ridge on the bottom
side that is midway between the two pins, and the connector plug
goes on with the retainer clip ends (gap) on the top. So that when
the connector plug is connected, the ground pin is on the right
side of the main valve as you face it from the front of the car.
‘‘First, what damage would I cause if I reversed the polarity?’’
Probably none, but you want to be sure that you supply 12v only
momentarily to get the click - just hold the ground wire against
the ground pin, and tap the positive wire to the positive pin and
you should hear the valve click.
Optionally, since you have a good resistance check of the main
valve, you can choose to skip this step and wait till you get the
right rear sensor installed and see if the code 21 still happens.
If it does, then you can do the ‘‘click’’ test.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from lockheed sent Sun 19 May 2013:
Thanks, Lockheed. I also found the ground pin was on the
right after doing the test you suggested.
I tried applying 12 volts with the battery charger (small
leads that were in kit instead of alligator battery clips),
but I don’t think the charger delivers power unless it is
hooked up to a battery. The red ‘‘check battery light’’ was
lit on the unit. In the past I think I tried applying 12
volts to something else using the battery
charger/maintainer, and got the same result…it wouldn’t
deliver the power.
How do you generally apply 12 volts to something?–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sun 19 May 2013:
John,
Ahhh, yes, I have a battery charger that behaves the same way.
Of course the left firewall + terminal stud get its 12V via the
buss bar and the right firewall + terminal and the battery cable.
But, it is behind some stuff and a not an easy access. I would
suggest popping off the fuse cover from the left engine compartment
fuse box - just forward of the headlamp controller. Leave the
ignition turned off. If you remove the fuses one at a time, and
put the negative lead of your VOM to ground, and the positive lead
of your VOM to the engine side of the fuse connector that is
exposed when you remove the fuse, you will find one that is a ready
source of 12V battery power - probably the fuse for the electric
radiator fan. Use that as a source of 12V for the ‘‘click’’ test if
you still want to do that.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from lockheed sent Sun 19 May 2013:
Hi Lockheed,
I took the fuses out one-by-one and found that the 25 amp
fuse (position 11) supplies 12.22 volts according to the
multimeter.
Now my question is…how do I transfer the power from the
fuse box to the main valve terminals? Should I use a
special type of wire? How would you do this? I tried using
the cables that hook into my multimeter, but the ends on one
side are too wide to make contact with the leads both in the
fuse box and on the main valve itself.
The above also assumes that I should simply be wiring the
ground in the fuse box to the ground terminal on the main
valve…and likewise, wiring the 12 volt terminal in the
fuse box (on engine facing side) to the non-ground main
valve terminal?
Thanks for all of the hand holding.–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Sun 19 May 2013:
Use two insulated jumper wires with only the ends bared -
one for the positive side and one for the negative side.
Connect one end of one wire to a good ground - not in the
fusebox. The other side of the fuses go to circuits - not
good grounds. The other end of this wire goes to the grnd
pin of the main valve. Push one end of the other wire
into your 12V source in the fuse box, then tap the other
end of this wire to the + pin of the main valve and listen
for the solenoid click.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from lockheed sent Sun 19 May 2013:
Lockheed,
I got a good used sensor today and installed it. It tests
1.1 K ohms resistance, as do all the other good sensors on
my car. The light is off! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I talked to a few yards, and some sensors advertised as
‘‘good’’ didn’t pass the resistance test. Future people
looking at this thread: make sure that any used sensors you
purchase test at 1.1 K ohms. Furthermore, code 21 (’‘main
valve failure’’) can be caused by a bad sensor!
Another thing I learned and may be helpful to others:
sensors that test at infinite resistance keep the warning
light lit all the time…those with 0 resistance cause the
light to come on only at between 15-20 mph.
I was hoping that the sensor would fix my cruise control,
since I read elsewhere that it gets its signal from the RR
ABS sensor…but unfortunately, even with the ABS light out
and the sensor replaced, the cruise is still nonoperational.
I’ll browse the archives and start a new post about that if
necessary.
Justin
1995 XJS 4.0 L 2+2–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Thu 23 May 2013:
Justin,
Glad to hear all is finally well with your ABS. Thanks for the
information on the wheel sensor failure symptoms and the anomalies
of the 21 failure code.
Go here, and download the electrical guide for your car:
http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.com/Electrical_Guides/XJS%201995%
20(4.0L)%20Elec%20Guide.pdf
Copy the whole string to your browser, or go to the following URL
and download the wiring guide for your car:
http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.com/Electrical_Reference.htm
Go to the cruise control section and you will see that the ''speed
sensor referred to is not the wheel sensor, but the sensor on the
back cover of the differential. If your speedometer is working
correctly, then the sensor is not faulty. The cruise control
usually involves a leaky rubber diaphragm. Search the archives or
begin another thread to further resolve the problem.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Thu 23 May 2013:
Justin,
just woundering how many sensors did you have to try to get a good
sensor? my F/Right went bad, Wells ABS Wheel Speed Sensor fixed
with a new sensor; good for another 19 years!
Dan
94 6.0L–
DanS
columbus ga. usa, United States
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In reply to a message from DanS sent Fri 24 May 2013:
Lockheed,
Thanks for the links. I don’t fully understand what I’m
looking at, but with experience hopefully the diagrams will
start to make some sense. I’ve learned plenty about VOMs
and the ABS system over the past few weeks - so I’m
confident I’ll eventually be able to comprehend these
electrical charts.
I’ll start a new thread on the cruise, but did find an old
post of yours explaining how to test the three switches.
I’ll try doing those tests once I get home and report back…
I took the car out today - what a ride! I’m still amazed at
how good looking it is. Furthermore, from working on the
ABS system I get the sense that it is actually very well
screwed together and quite simple in its construction. Very
rare to find a car that looks this good, has ‘‘classic
styling’’ and is reliable and well put together.
Dan,
The sensors that I purchased were used. Didn’t see the
point in paying $400+ when I could get a used one for
$120-$150. I only had to try one faulty used one before I
received a good one - however, there would have been a few
more faulty ones sent my way had I not asked the sellers to
test them before shipping.–
jstjagguy
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In reply to a message from jstjagguy sent Fri 24 May 2013:
‘‘but did find an old post of yours explaining how to test the three
switches.’’
Be careful - those tests may not apply to the OEM Jaguar cruise
control system. I had a number of posts like that in regard to
installing a GM six function cruise control using the OEM Jaguar
XJS cruise control switches in a couple of cars that had been
converted to the LT1 with either a 700-R4 or 4L60E transmission.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1 Miami FL/ 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX
Austin, TX, United States
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