The only reason why this was made easy is because I am in the
middle of changing the muffler for my air-conditioning, so by
disconnection the line to the compressor that goes off to the
drivers� side, I was able to swing compressor up and completely out
of the way. Then I removed mounting bracket for alternator and
swung arm and bracket up and out of the way.
After this, it took me less than 5 minutes to install the 3
otherwise difficult hoses.
I installed drivers� side thermostat hose onto thermostat first,
installed center hose on crossover pipe next. Then I installed the
cross-over assembly into place on drivers� side thermostat and
center hose. (I did the center first then drivers� thermostat
second.) The passenger side hose was then installed with no
problem either.
Before I reassembled this cross over-pipe into place, I took the
opportunity to change the fan blades and fan clutch. Wow. This
was also made easy too.
Sometimes things do go right on these cars.
Cheers,
Chris–
Chris, 1988 1/2 XJS with ABS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
The only reason why this was made easy is because I am in the
middle of changing the muffler for my air-conditioning, so by
disconnection the line to the compressor that goes off to the
drivers’ side, I was able to swing compressor up and completely out
of the way. Then I removed mounting bracket for alternator and
swung arm and bracket up and out of the way.
UP and out of the way? Surely, you’re referring to the air pump at the
front of the A bank? The V12 has the alternator at the BOTTOM, and the
inline six should have no need for a crossover (since there is but one bank
of cylinders).
The only reason why this was made easy is because I am in the
middle of changing the muffler for my air-conditioning, so by
disconnection the line to the compressor that goes off to the
drivers� side, I was able to swing compressor up and completely out
of the way. Then I removed mounting bracket for alternator and
swung arm and bracket up and out of the way.
After this, it took me less than 5 minutes to install the 3
otherwise difficult hoses.
Or just seal off the cross-over pipe fittings on the thermostat housings,
remove the pipe (well, cut and weld it together so you still have a pump
filler), and adapt the thermostats by drilling an extra couple of holes in
the thermostats so it still maintains some flow even when the 'stats are
closed. More unnecessary clutter removed with no ill effects.
Gordan
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn Wed, 9 May 2007, Chris111 wrote:
In reply to a message from sean.straw%2BJaguar@mail.professional.org sent Wed 9 May 2007:
OK.
What ever it is that bolts to the front of the drivers side valve
cover. I had to loosen this to get air conditioning belt off, then
decided to remove bracket all together once I got going.
In reply to a message from Gordan Bobic sent Wed 9 May 2007:
Gordon,
So you have a straight pipe coming out of water pump where you fill
system from and 2 small rad hoses coming off, one to top right
radiator and the other down to something I don’t know what it is
called?
So you have a straight pipe coming out of water pump where you fill
system from and 2 small rad hoses coming off, one to top right
radiator and the other down to something I don’t know what it is
called?
Are we talking about a V12 or a 6-pot? I only twigged you might be talking
about a 6-pot when Sean pointed it out. I was talking about the V12 setup.
Gordan
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn Wed, 9 May 2007, Chris111 wrote:
So you have a straight pipe coming out of water pump where you fill
system from and 2 small rad hoses coming off, one to top right
radiator and the other down to something I don’t know what it is
called?
There’s a pipe connecting the two thermostat housings. There is a piece of
it going down to the water pump, and a piece of it going up the the filler
cap.
I’m saying that this pipe can be removed with a few additional
modifications (thermostat housings, thermostats, and a mod to keep the
pump filler (or a mod to remove it, although it’s useful to keep it)).
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn Wed, 9 May 2007, Chris111 wrote:
In reply to a message from Gordan Bobic sent Wed 9 May 2007:
Gordan,
I realize what you are saying, I’m just trying to picture in my
mind what it looks like once completed.
You must have plugged both thermostat holes and also both ends of
the crossover pipe.
Sounds like a good idea I just wonder why Jaguar didn’t do it in
the first place. When filling the system it must fill from the
bottom up slowly, but also with out any air.
I realize what you are saying, I’m just trying to picture in my
mind what it looks like once completed.
There’s just a vertical pipe up from the pump and two bungs plugging where
the pipe used to fit on the thermostat housings.
You must have plugged both thermostat holes and also both ends of
the crossover pipe.
My current setup just has the cross-over pipe plugged and the thermostats
removed. The plan for the near future is to just thread and bolt, or
possibly weld up the holes where the cross-over pipe goes, cut the top and
bottom pipes off the cross-over pipe and weld them together, and fit that
where the cross-over pipe connects to the pump.
Sounds like a good idea I just wonder why Jaguar didn’t do it in
the first place.
I gave up on questioning such things. Nowdays I just change things that
are messy or just don’t make sense.
When filling the system it must fill from the
bottom up slowly, but also with out any air.
All the bleeding pipes remain with the system I described - on the
thermostat housings and at the pipe on top of the pump. Making sure no air
remains in the system isnt’ a problem. Not that it would matter - the air
would get bled out as soon as you turn the engine over.
I also got fed up with the banjo bolt bleeding procedure, so the new
radiators I have made just have two of the self-bleeding bolts plumbed
over to the header tank. It removes all the hassle of bleeding the
standard V12 cooling system. Just fill up, go for a drive, wait to cool
down, top up, and you’re done. Beats messing around with the banjo bolt on
a slope for hours.
Gordan
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn Wed, 9 May 2007, Chris111 wrote:
In reply to a message from Gordan Bobic sent Wed 9 May 2007:
Gordon
How near are you to having the radiators for sale, please? Also, I
kind of follow you about the cross-over pipe mods, but got a bit
confused about where you said the thermostats were removed.
Is there any chance of your doing a diagram for the challenged in
this area, if you have time of course.
greg–
The original message included these comments:
My current setup just has the cross-over pipe plugged and the thermostats
removed. The plan for the near future is to just thread and bolt, or
I also got fed up with the banjo bolt bleeding procedure, so the new
radiators I have made just have two of the self-bleeding bolts plumbed
over to the header tank. It removes all the hassle of bleeding the
In reply to a message from Chris111 sent Wed 9 May 2007:
Gordon are you saying the new self bleeders are on the end tanks of
the radiator or the thermostat housings? Congratulations on the new
radiator design. Looking forward to seeing them when you are ready
to post on the link. Interesting idea, leaving the crossover pipe
out of the cooling system. I would be interested to hear what Kirby
and Roger Baywater along with Richard Dowling, Ed Sowell and B.
Emden think of this arrangement. Best, jw–
Ballet 1-- 86 XJS- TH400- Dana 2.87- Lucas CEI
Fresno, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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