I just changed all 20 of the instrument lights in my 95 XJS
convertible to LED, due to them being too dim for daylight driving
with the top down.
Had to do a bit of carving on the plastic bases, but all went in,
and bulbs all illuminated when power put to them individually, with
instrument panel on bench. (I put power to the plastic printed
circuit, not directly to bulb). Problem is, the blue headlight dip
light doesn’t work, and neither do the green indicators, the latter
being particularly galling, since they were the primary reason for
the changeover. The ones that do work are great, and just to be
sure, I replaced the offending LED’s with the original bulbs, and
they work fine, (dimly anyway).
Does anyone have any suggestions why these 3 bulbs will not work?
Les–
lesterB
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from lesterB sent Thu 24 Sep 2015:
Make sure you have the + & - of the LED the correct way round as
they will only light one way . Also confirm the LED is for 12
volts with built in resistor and the LED holder is making good
contact with the printed circuit connections.–
95 XJR6, 94 XJS 6.0 coupe, 04 XK8 ,99 Ka
Croydon , SURREY, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
When you flip the highbeams and the blue light doesn’t light up, do the highbeams actually come on? Same thing with the turn signal, are they actually blinking? The turn signal for sure involves a thermal element that simply is not getting the draw it needs to operate because the voltage is so low
What you can do is put the bright LED where you want it, and wire the incandescent bulb in series . It can light up under your dashboard or something where you don’t have to look at it
// please trim quoted text to context only
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
4
The ones that do work are great, and just
to be sure, I replaced the offending LED’s with the original bulbs,
and they work fine, (dimly anyway). Does anyone have any suggestions
why these 3 bulbs will not work?
Obviously, possibly the polarity is incorrect. Turn the LED’s around
and try again.
– Kirbert
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 24 Sep 2015 at 11:20, lesterB wrote:
In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Thu 24 Sep 2015:
Thanks to all who offered help, turns out my knowledge of electrics
is even worse than previously thought. In spite having tested the
polarity of all 20 bulbs, put them in the unit, and tested all 20
the same way, with a 12v current, and getting them to light, simply
turning the 3 ‘‘faulty’’ ones round in their sockets, solved the
problem. What can I say? On the upside, I have become quite adept
at replacing those 2 connectors in the back of the unit by feel.
‘‘every cloud has a silver lining’’
In reply to a message from syzygy sent Fri 25 Sep 2015:
Yes well done to Kirby as always but 540
Touring did actually mention the +/- polarity
could be the reason in the very first post.
Come on the Brits!! Cheers Richard.–
Richard Ashley. Green 95 XJS Celebration. 4.0 Ltr Coupe
Scarborough, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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I bought superbright too, for my 95 XJS convertible. The originals were impossible to see in daylight with top down.5 x NEO5- GHP: 5mm NEO5 x HP green1 x NEO5- BHP: 5mm NEO5 x HP blue7 x NEO5- RHP: 5mm NEO5 x HP red7 x NEO5- AHP: 5mm NEO5 x amberUnfortunately, I can’t remember exactly what I had to do to make them fit, it’s been over 2 years, but I had my instrument panel out, and that helped. I must have been able to see the problem by comparing the new bulb to the factory original though. I suspect it had to do with the little plastic bayonetts that allow you to push the bulb in, and twist it to lock.I think I trimmed with a razor knife. Worth the trouble though, they are a real improvement.
Good luck, Les
thanks, getting frustrated since the one they recommend don’t fit. I don’t reconize the numbers you listed (.5 x NEO5- GHP: 5mm NEO5 x HP green1 x NEO5- BHP: 5mm NEO5 x HP blue7 x NEO5- RHP) are these the item numbers? I was given B8 LED Bulb - SMD Instrument Panel LED.
I have two questions: First - someone stated in the forum that you can’t change the alt light to LED - did you and how did it work. Second - can’t disconnect the two wiring connectors that fit into the rear of the cluster. I think this is all that holds it in, how did you release the connection?
I converted all the dash lights to led in my 89. Only ones that seem to act a bit funny are the turn indicator ones. Anyone else have this issue?
Otherwise the leds were really worth the hassle.
And of course as someone else mentioned, make sure they are in the proper way or you will be taking it out again.
Hi David, All I can say about the lamps I used is that they were recomended by someone on Jag lovers, and that they work well for me, after having to cut them to fit. The numbers and quantities I gave you were the ones I was told to use, and the numbers are correct. I don’t know if the ones you bought are compatible, they may well be. I bought and installed 20 bulbs. I imagine this included the Alt light, since I didn’t know I couldn’t change it. I can’t remember any problems disconnecting the wiring to remove the instrument panel though.I’m sorry I can’t be more help, but it was a while ago. I suggest you google this “1995 Jaguar XJS instrument lights dim” you will get lots of hits, and someone will have had your problem. Googling will include Jaguar site hits too.
Les
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
14
The alternator light is the circuit that provides field excitation for the alternator. If you install an LED, it won’t carry enough current to excite the alternator – but the alternator may work anyway just on residual magnetism in the field. Still, it’s easy to be sure: Just wire a resistor into the circuit in parallel with the LED, sizing the resistor to provide about the same current that the incandescent bulb did. Since the resistor should hopefully never burn out, the end result will be more reliable – but I can see how some would conclude that the simplest solution is just to leave the incandescent bulb in that particular indicator.
As we know, the polarity sensitive LED will only work when current flows in the “right” direction.The reason that makes an LED a poor choice for an alternator W/L is because- if the alternator should start to overcharge for some reason, current tries to flow in the “wrong” direction for the LED, and it won’t light up. A good ole fashioned incandescent bulb doesn’t know the difference, and lights up, no matter what,making it the better choice, IMHO! If you decide to use an LED anyway, keep a close eye on your voltmeter. BTW, my '88 car already has a resistor wired in parallel with the W/L. I did use LED’s for the turn signal W/Ls, and moved them where I could see them- nothing else. (Thanks to Bernie Embden idea.)
been on line with the superbright people and they’re nice to talk to but at a standstill on the type of bulb, The neo5 doesn’t look like it should fit so I’m going to take a series of measurements of the b8.3 bulbs they I bought. after reading the threads I get the feeling it’s the correct bulb just needs some tweaking.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
17
I wasn’t aware that the alt light gave a signal when the alt was overcharging!
I did try once to change the turn indicator lights to LEDs but, in my 86 XJ, it didn’t work…
I think the flasher relay needs the bigger load of the incandescent bulb to work correctly.
Into my second week of LED fun. The guys at superbright have been nice (I think they wish they never heard of me) but it is apparent the original lights they speced were wrong and after sending pictures they recommended bulbs that resembled the OEM but unfortunately the tabs were too small, but in looking at the pictures if the neo bulb I and realize what you meant by whittling on them entailed.
now to the crux of my question. How are the two connectors released on the cluster. I’m tired of trying and touchey feeley with mirrors.
I wish I could remember how it was done. I know I went through the same nonsense your going through. I googled this problem, here’s what was said.
Remove side trim around instrument panel by removing 1 screw on each side and one screw at the top/middle which holds a small piece which joins the two side pieces. There is trim along the bottom of the trim pieces on each side of the steering column which must be loosened; one screw on each side of the steering wheel fastened from below.
Once the trim is removed, there are two screws that hold the instrument panel to the body at the upper corners. First, pry out (with your fingers) the two screw head covers; they come out easily. Then remove the two screws underneath. Lower the steering wheel as far as it goes and pull out the instrument panel.
There are two electrical connectors that attach to the instrument panel. From the left side, reach in and press down on the top and bottom of the left most connector; this releases the connector. Then reach further in and release the second connector by pressing down on the catches at the top and the bottom of the connector; the connector comes loose easily.
Good luck, Mitch
Here’s the link, possibly mitch has a better memory than me. 95 xjs instrument panel removal - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
95 xjs instrument panel removal - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
XJS ( X27 ) - 95 xjs instrument panel removal - Hi all, I have a 1995 XJS that I suspect has a bad hand brake bu… | |
boag david bogaty
February 7 |
to lesterBInto my second week of LED fun. The guys at superbright have been nice (I think they wish they never heard of me) but it is apparent the original lights they speced were wrong and after sending pictures they recommended bulbs that resembled the OEM but unfortunately the tabs were too small, but in looking at the pictures if the neo bulb I and realize what you meant by whittling on them entailed.now to the crux of my question. How are the two connectors released on the cluster. I’m tired of trying and touchey feeley with mirrors. Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond. To unsubscribe from these emails, click here.
