Has anyone found a method for rodding/cleaning plugged air bleeder
tubes used to burp and vent air bubbles. I have tried soaking
tubes, high pressure air and a braided wire inserted and spun with
an electric drill while pushing on the cable to no avail. Comments
or suggestions please gentlemen. Besst, JW–
86XJ-S cpes,Ballet I,Act II,Lutz stg.1,288 Dana
Fresno, CA, United States
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Dr.Quail wrote:
Has anyone found a method for rodding/cleaning plugged air bleeder
tubes used to burp and vent air bubbles. I have tried soaking tubes,
high pressure air and a braided wire inserted and spun with an
electric drill while pushing on the cable to no avail. Comments or
suggestions please gentlemen.
Two ideas come to mind:
Take them to a radiator shop and ask them to “boil” them for you
in their tank.
“The Works” toilet bowl cleaner from Walmart. The stuff is the
best for removing hard water deposits, which is basically what your
problem probably is. How you’d get enough of the stuff inside the
tube, I dunno.
– Kirbert
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In reply to a message from Dr.Quail sent Tue 30 Aug 2011:
Has anyone found a method for rodding/cleaning plugged air
bleeder tubes used to burp and vent air bubbles
I just cleaned mine out using a wire hanger. Obviously you neet to
straighten it out a bit, but I cut the curly part off after
unwinding it from the hook, and put a little bit of a bend in the
last 1/4’’ of it, to help it get around the bends. Lots of in and
out, back and forth, (the coat hanger I’m talking about) but it
eventually cleared out. The cheaper the coat hanger, probably the
better, cause you are looking for a thin wire. I’ve determined the
plastic and wooden coat hangers would not work so well.–
TooTallTom - '89 XJS-5.3 V12 (Marelli)
Springville/NY, United States
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In reply to a message from Dr.Quail sent Tue 30 Aug 2011:
JW,
I fabricated a replacement using copper tubing. Was a long time
ago, but IIFC I used three different sizes of tubing. The smaller
tubing inserted into the larger tubing, and then soldered. You can
get a small set of tube benders to shape it correctly, which will
prevent the tubing from kinking. The ones I got looked like
springs. Use the existing tubing for a template. Cost about $20 for
the new tubing and the set of 5 or 6 spring benders. I had a
propane torch, flux and solder. Bend the tubing first, then cut it
correct length and allow maybe 1/2 ‘’ extra length for fitting
together. If you go that route, I can measure the OD of the tubing
and post. Might even be able to take a photo.
SD Faircloth–
The original message included these comments:
Has anyone found a method for rodding/cleaning plugged air bleeder
tubes used to burp and vent air bubbles. I have tried soaking
tubes, high pressure air and a braided wire inserted and spun with
an electric drill while pushing on the cable to no avail. Comments
or suggestions please gentlemen. Besst, JW
–
www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com
Jacksonville, Florida, United States
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Tue 30 Aug 2011:
The original air purge tubing is made of mild steel. Over time the
ID will blister and clog up the tubing. Perhaps from electrolysis ??
The Works, Iron Out, etc, are used to remove rust stains, lime
scale and hard water deposits (typically calcuim and magnesium).
Won’t work on the steel ‘‘blisters’’.
SD Faircloth–
The original message included these comments:
- ‘‘The Works’’ toilet bowl cleaner from Walmart. The stuff is the
best for removing hard water deposits, which is basically what your
problem probably is. How you’d get enough of the stuff inside the
tube, I dunno.
–
www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com
Jacksonville, Florida, United States
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In reply to a message from Dr.Quail sent Tue 30 Aug 2011:
Jon,
Too hard, and the wall of that ‘‘bundy tubing’’ is fairly thin and I
wasted too much time waaaaay back then.
I went to a brake mob here, and they priced me to make a new one
out of brake bundy tube, stupid $$.
Just for a giggle (I needed a laugh in those days), I rang Jaguar,
$35, one only left, ‘‘NOT NOW mnate, I own it’’.
I keep the coolant concentration at top spec. That, and the banjo
bolt modification keeps the flow in those tubes higher than
original, so I envisage no issues in my lifetime.
The copper tube way is obviously the best, and it is really not
that hard to fabricate.–
The original message included these comments:
Has anyone found a method for rodding/cleaning plugged air bleeder
tubes used to burp and vent air bubbles. I have tried soaking
tubes, high pressure air and a braided wire inserted and spun with
an electric drill while pushing on the cable to no avail. Comments
or suggestions please gentlemen. Besst, JW
–
Grant Francis 85 XJSV12 (Hers), '96 X300 XJ6 3.2l (My Cat)
Adelaide South Austarlia, Australia
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In reply to a message from SD Faircloth sent Wed 31 Aug 2011:
I measured the copper tube OD this morning. I used two sizes. The
ODs’ are 1/4’’ and 3/8’’. IIRC, copper tubing is not speced using the
OD, but I have long since pitched that info. I also took a photo.
Anyone with interest in the photo of the air purge tube I
fabricated…contact me off-list.
Dave Faircloth–
The original message included these comments:
I fabricated a replacement using copper tubing. Was a long time
ago, but IIFC I used three different sizes of tubing. The smaller
–
www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com
Jacksonville, Florida, United States
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SD Faircloth wrote:
I fabricated a replacement using copper tubing. Was a long time
ago, but IIFC I used three different sizes of tubing. The smaller
tubing inserted into the larger tubing, and then soldered.
Did you cut the original tube open to ensure that you got the
configuration of the ejector correct? And how did you handle the
banjo fitting?
– Kirbert
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Wed 31 Aug 2011:
Kirby,
I measured the OEM air purge tube, two sizes, and then got copper
tube that was the same OD. If the inside ID was different…would
not be but 1-2 mm. Refabed the new air purge tubing, with the same
OD sizing on all three ports.
IIRC, on the bango fitting, I cleaned out the ports and refitted.
I’ll send you a photo on the refabbed air purge fitting. along with
another poster who asked for a photo.
Dave F–
The original message included these comments:
configuration of the ejector correct? And how did you handle the
banjo fitting?
–
www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com
Jacksonville, Florida, United States
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In reply to a message from SD Faircloth sent Wed 31 Aug 2011:
Bravo, gentlemen all. The fabrication of this tube set seems
straight forward and a good solution to an on going problem. David,
please email off list and would also ask you to place the photos if
you have the time into the jag-list photo albums. Great info for
the guys here. Did you try to have it painted or ??? Black.
Etching prime and SEM auto parts black would likely work. Again
thanks to all of for a great solution to the problem. Best, JW–
The original message included these comments:
not be but 1-2 mm. Refabed the new air purge tubing, with the same
IIRC, on the bango fitting, I cleaned out the ports and refitted.
I’ll send you a photo on the refabbed air purge fitting. along withconfiguration of the ejector correct? And how did you handle the
–
86XJ-S cpes,Ballet I,Act II,Lutz stg.1,288 Dana
Fresno, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Wed 31 Aug 2011:
Kirbert
Could you please explain the ejector thing for me? Where
abouts in the tube is it, what it is for, etc etc ?
Thanks
Greg–
The original message included these comments:
Did you cut the original tube open to ensure that you got the
configuration of the ejector correct? And how did you handle the
–
UK spec 1985 XJS V12 HE
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In reply to a message from gregory wilkinson-riddle sent Thu 1 Sep 2011:
Greg,
I’m pretty sure Kirby is referring to the air purge tubing as the
ejector. The manual calls it a venting jet. The two different
tubing sizes create a slight difference in coolant pressure in the
ejector. The larger tube that feeds to the remote expansion tank
has slightly less pressure (due to its larger size) which allows
coolant (or any trapped air) to flow to the expansion tank, and
then on to the atmospheric catchment tank, where it is eliminated.
SD Faircloth–
The original message included these comments:
Could you please explain the ejector thing for me? Where
abouts in the tube is it, what it is for, etc etc ?
–
www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com
Jacksonville, Florida, United States
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In reply to a message from SD Faircloth sent Thu 1 Sep 2011:
Thanks for that. I have often wondered why the two bits of
tube on the LHS were of different diameters.
Greg–
The original message included these comments:
I’m pretty sure Kirby is referring to the air purge tubing as the
ejector. The manual calls it a venting jet. The two different
tubing sizes create a slight difference in coolant pressure in the
has slightly less pressure (due to its larger size) which allows
coolant (or any trapped air) to flow to the expansion tank, and
then on to the atmospheric catchment tank, where it is eliminated.
–
UK spec 1985 XJS V12 HE
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gregory wilkinson-riddle wrote:
Could you please explain the ejector thing for me? Where
abouts in the tube is it, what it is for, etc etc ?
If you have a Haynes, this ejector is shown very clearly in Fig. 13.6
on page 334 as item 18, “venting jet”. Of course, this diagram is
from a Jaguar publication, so it’s illustrated incorrectly; the lines
from the banjo bolt and from the LH thermostat housing need to be
reversed to make this illustration correct.
The ejector, or “venting jet”, is within the junction of the three
tubes in the air purge manifold. Basically an ejector is a device in
which a high-velocity flow of fluid “entrains” another flow of fluid
and pulls it along with it, generating a suction in the second flow.
It involves a sort of nozzle within a larger passage or pipe. In
this case, the flow from the top of the LH thermostat housing (a
location of relatively high pressure within the coolant circuit) to
the port installed right at the water pump inlet (the lowest pressure
within the coolant circuit) through the ejector draws a vacuum to
help pull fluid out of the banjo bolt at the top right corner of the
rad. The ejector is built into that air bleed manifold; basically
the tiny tube from the thermostat housing protrudes through the
center of a larger chamber, forming a nozzle, while the line from the
banjo bolt come in the side to the annular area surrounding this
nozzle so the fluid can be effectively entrained.
If you just solder copper tubes together, it’ll fit in the spot, but
I don’t see how it’ll ever actually do much purging of air bubbles.
It’s just there for looks, I guess.
I suspect you could make a correct ejector assembly out of copper
tubing, but you’d need a larger diameter section. A T would probably
work. On one side of the T you’d fit a bushing or adapter to hold
the much smaller size tubing from the thermostat housing, but you’d
carefully file out the little step inside that stops the tube as you
insert it. You want the small tube to go clean through that bushing
and past the 3rd leg of that T and end pointing at the other side
outlet of the T.
As I’ve said before, once you have decided to replace your original
tubing with copper, the thing to do would be to cut open the original
ejector and see how it’s designed. Or, just cut the original out,
clean it up, and reuse it by connecting new tubes to it – much as
needs to be done with the banjo bolt fitting at the other end.
– Kirbert
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Thu 1 Sep 2011:
Many thanks Kirbert. Another mystery to me solved. And dead
clearly explained too.
Greg–
UK spec 1985 XJS V12 HE
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