At 02:43 2003-05-20 +0200, hnblaisdell@rcn.com wrote:
Ahh Spring at long last. Today I put the top down for the first
time this season. Problem …Top would not go back up… went down
with no problem… I pushed the button had a small lift of the top
As already mentioned, check the switch (though, since the pump is operated
through relays, I’m not so sure that’ll make a big difference - it
shouldn’t arce, unlike the window switches - but I defer to the experience
of people who’ve dealt with the problem before).
If that doesn’t fix it for you, then read on:
A couple of years back, my wife came home after a day out on errands, and
had a big frown - her convertible top wouldn’t work. Of course, this was
now a priority to fix, because an unhappy wife is never a good thing. We
got the top back up manually (to secure the car), and I proceeded to check
the electrics, with the electrical guide in hand (I own complete factory
manuals for all of our cars, 'cept for a 1966 F250 pickup I recently
inherited) - electrics were good - throwing the switch was providing
voltage to the motor, but there was zero motor action.
So, I removed the motor and had a look inside - it was obvious what the
problem was - one of the brushes had worn to a small nib (actually wore
through the point where the wire was tacked to the brush, so there was a
piece of wire just dangling there and a minute chunk of brush). I called
around and found that Ford didn’t provide rebuild parts - they wanted
US$500+ for a replacement motor. The pump manufacturer wasn’t much more
helpful - they produced the motors under contract with Ford, and were
contractually prohibited from providing repair parts (no surprise, with
Ford charging US$500+ for a pump that can’t cost US$50-80 wholesale). I
believe it was the manufacturer who provided me with the number for a chap
who does custom convertible conversions, and he was more than happy to send
me the innards from a dead motor he had on hand. However, while waiting
for that to arrive (remember, I’m the guy with the wife who doesn’t have a
working convertible top!), I travelled to the shady part of Oakland, which
was the closest place I could find with an alternator/starter repair
shop. They had some brushes which were a near fit (a bit oversize, which
is preferrable to undersize), and I simply set them down on a piece of
wet-dry sandpaper and sanded them down slightly to the necessary
dimensions. Installed the new brushes, reassembled the pump (the only
tricky part - and it should apply here too, is getting the brushes around
the commutator while reassembling everything - you’ve got to have
dexterity, ingenuity, or a pair of extra hands), topped up the hydraulic
fluid, and the wife was a happy camper.
Actual repair time for this is nominal - perhaps 30 minutes between removal
and reinstalled - the sinkhole of time is in locating and acquiring the
appropriate brushes.
If you use your convertible top often, you can expect you’ll need to
replace the brushes at some point during your ownership.
The RTC9900CA catalogue shows the hood lift mechanism (pump) on p 30-04,
but unfortunatley doesn’t list rebuild parts, so if after checking that the
switch isn’t the cuprit, if you end up having to replace the brushes,
you’ll need to measure the nibs you’ve got left and get a good guestimate
as to the original service length of them. If you do this, please post a
followup here with the dimensions, as well as the manufacturer and part
number of whatever set of brushes you find for it which are suitable.
If you don’t have an appropriate place to purchase brush parts, I can
provide you with the number of the place in Oakland which I purchased the
brushes I used for my wife’s car (and I picked up a spare set to have on
hand the next time I have to deal with it). I dunno if they ship parts at
all, but it’s worth a call if you don’t have something local. Be sure to
have the necessary dimensions on hand when you call (whomever), so as to
not waste their time trying to find something vaguely similar - chances
are, a rebuild shop isn’t going to know anything about the specific
hydraulic pump you have in hand - it’s the dimensions that count.
BTW - if you have to open up the pump, you should take the opportunity to
blow it out with compressed air to clear out metallic dust from the wear of
the brush and commutator.
— http://jaguar.professional.org/
Sean Straw '88 Jaguar XJ-SC 5.3L V12 (LHD) ‘Black Cat’ 65K
Marin County, California '85 Jaguar XJ-S 5.3L V12 (LHD) ‘Bad Kitty’ 210K
'69 Buick GranSport 455 V8 324K
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